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I haven't made a military mount pre-form on the lathe, but I've turned tenons by chucking them on pin gauges after opening the airways. You have to have your tools sharp or the pressure will push the stem off the pin gauge.

Very informative as always!

The only thing I would change is the taper on the sides of the stem. I think a fishtail on a prince should be a fishtail only in the last about 1/3 of the stem and the rest of the stem should match the sides of the shank.

It looks like I'll be able to make the KC show for the first time. Schedule is clear and table and room reserved.

For times when I made the airway high in the bottom of the mortise and needed to ramp the airway, I used a torch to bend a file at a curve. It works ok, but Tyler (I think) recommended a special hacksaw blade instead. I think one may be able to ream an airway with such a tool, even despite end cap. ...

Welcome to the forum!

I agree the stummel shaping is pretty close. I might lose a little bit of material just above the shank on the bowl, but that's a minor deal. I can't tell whether the bamboo was scarred from the beginning or whether you sanded it too far when fitting it. I'm not convinced on the length of the stem. ...

If you have the money, the 1/4 or 1/3 HP (or even 1/2HP) can run off a typical 110V power supply. When you get up to 3/4 or 1HP, the VFD needs 220V input. I have 3 motors with VFD that work wonderfully for buffing and shaping. I don't usually change the speed, but it's nice to have the option. 1750 ...

Yes. Your variables are length and diameter of mortise, keyhole, ramp, and angle of airway (and to a lesser extent, the angle of the chamber). Find the sweet spot by adjusting them to make the least compromise necessary.

I don't tend to cap off the keyhole, though sometimes I have to for some more awkward shapes. I think my most common technique is to make the mortise wide enough to hide the keyhole, if possible.

The rim appears to be thinner on the back of the bowl than the front. I think that leaves the whole pipe feeling front-heavy where the bulk of the material on the bowl is forward of the chamber. The other thing is the bottom line. On a good author, that line is a nice swooping curve. A bit more mate...

I think the issue was the particular kind of finish reacting with the ebonite. I would recommend keeping the finish (especially oil-based) off the stem as much as possible. It has since faded, but did smell for a while. Also, I now buff with Tripoli on the stem, then clean with denatured alcohol bef...

Most 3 phase motors don't use ground at all. But yeah, you could just connect the motor housing to the ground. When running, two legs act as return voltage at any given time, so a ground isn't as big of a deal. Glad you got it working.

Consult the manual that came with the VFD. It should have a reference for the error codes and what the likely cause is. I got an LV code with the last VFD I set up day before yesterday. Looked it up and it said low voltage. Turns out there was a loose connection with one of the wires. Chances are, t...

1. Contrary to your statements, I think it would be beneficial to see you file and sand the whole time. There are aspects of filing and sanding technique that can't be taken for granted. 2. Links to the products (G-Flex epoxy, etc.) that you mention would be valuable. I took an educated guess on the...

I appreciate you sharing this, George. This video series was less expensive for me to watch than the last one, in terms of new tools I need to add to my workshop.

Better with bacon!

JMG wrote:It would make a good breakfast...why not a pipe.

So what you're saying essentially is 1 doughnut and two eggs make for perfect pipes, right?

Except the sound coming from the sandblaster and air compressor is so much prettier than bagpipes...