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Actually, "The departure angle of the shank is too high by a degree or so, and the rim bevel should be a millimeter deeper." needs to go on our next forum t-shirt...

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Hmm. I curious to hear your complaints. I have a 101 and it does the job for me.... granted I'm one hair away from a new guy, and haven't used anything better, so no context.

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Okay, okay, funnies aside, some real comments. I would like to see this design streamlined, meaning, get rid of the extra step-down on the stummel side and the accent ring on the stem side. Make the briar, tube and stem all on the same level. Still with the tenons to fit the rubbing over. Also, I th...

the question that begs to be asked: why 3 inches of clear tubing and not 30.....?

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What do you think the ivory did to the overall proportions? Does it read as part of the stummel or part of the stem?

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Totally agree with all of Sas's points and want to add: this is not a full-service salon, you don't show up, drop some pictures, and expect to get taken care of.... it's meant to be a community of support, each helping the other. These guys that have stomped off with their undies ruffled are not giv...

Particularly, with a shape like this, but really with all pipes, think about a set of French curves. The radius changes but there is always a simple elegant transition, and no unnecessary bends or flat spots. You have a few of those, specifically the bottom line from the bowl into the shank, and ano...

Yes, for a tapered military mount.

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These are made by an Italian company, and this is how they designate their shapes, I think.

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One thing that I've found that helps is to use a 3 or 4mm round file to cut that transition in, right where you want it. Then shape the bowl down to the transition, and the shank in. Sent from my bloopty-bloop using hooty-hoo.

Yes! I'd say you have a much more well proportioned pipe! Nicely done. I also think the shape is much more interesting now. Good for you for talking a drastic second whack at it, it payed off.

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One thing, the rim should be perpendicular to the chamber axis, not parallel with the draught hole.

You are definitely dialing into knit-picky territory. I think the bowl is a bit large for it's height, but you are running out of meat in the chamber walls. What is the size of the chamber? In fact, what at the overall dimensions? I would shoot for a little taller and a little narrower, this will ta...

Ooh! Now I want one... I've got a couple p-lips that I don't love....
Is it possible to alter a p-lip into a serviceable fishtail? Is there enough material there?

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The hardest part about shaping buttons is the EARS.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrDr4rYLiAk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU

It's not as hard as it seems, and the results will be much much better...
I've had 0 luck with carbide and ebonite.

Sorry...

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Okay. First, I think your proportions are a bit off. The bowl is definitely too large for the shank diameter, and the length of the stem. With a longer (even twice as long) stem, you might pull off the bowl. If you are looking to make a little stubby nosewarmer, I think a stouter shank would balance...

It would help to have some context here.
How many pipes have you made before this one?
How many hand cut stems?

When you have the top of a bowl wider than the bottom, that's a dublin.
They way that you stretched out the front rim of the bowl made the top line go not perpendicular to the axis of the chamber, it looks like it has been flattened towards the stem.