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Very good! I always love seeing others processes and shop set ups. Thanks for taking the time.

You are the master for sure! I hope I can one day make a stem half as good as you sir!

Thanks for the pointers, I see what you're saying about the smooth parts. I sanded it to 3200 micromesh but that is where I was having problems with the shellac, I dilute to 50/50, maybe I need to thin it more and apply more coats to get it better. I see what you're saying about the shank in the pic...

Looks very nice and that stem looks very good! I would be proud of it.

I think I am progressing fine this was my first saddle bit and rustication. I am still working out a few things with the right mix of shellac and dna and file work around the button. but overall happy with it. It is what I would call a group 4-5 size with nice and thick walls. 2 1/4" tall and 5...

Much nicer than my first few. Congrats.

Much better than my 3rd.

Doc, it looks good! In my very short span, I have found that I learn way faster by messing up. I started to use my caliper for sizing the button and bite zone to get it as thin as possible without weakening. I have been using 4mm on the bite zone and about 6mm for the total height of the button. As ...

The pics aren't great but where the bit meets the rest of the stem. On the sides of it where the file would nibble some when rounding the edge. I figured it was better to leave it as is rather than doing irreversible damage to an otherwise good bit. Also, two pis showed up on the shank. Not very big...

Here's number three, A canted nose warmer I made for a friend. I am pretty happy with it overall, I know it has flaws though.
I used delrin for the first time and also two different stains this time. I still struggle with the junction at the bit and stem a bit though.

Charl wrote: Did you have a relevation, Relevation?

Totally

I'm no expert that's for sure, but I definitely like it!

I recently found The videos George mage on shaping stems and found them to be very, very good. the detailed explanation with prop's and pictures along with demonstrating his technique. Thanks again George, I hope this can take this wannabe to the next level. :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eI8uDW...

Thanks for the tip on the 1/16th. I also checked out your website and can see what you're saying more clearly.

I hear ya on the scratches. I'm still figuring out what to use between files and sand paper. Most of the scratches don't appear until buffing and I was getting nervous about going through to the air hole using a 3/32 for the majority of the airway of the stem. What specifically on the button needs r...

Well as I said in my introduction, I jump in with both feet. Here is my second pipe. great many flaws but I'm still happy with it. I started off going to make a Dublin but the shank broke off during the late process, so I figured , what the hell, I'll make a bamboo. yep, the gaps are large and it wa...

As far a a bit for boring tobby chambers, I really like to use a cove router bit. Only draw back is that really deep chambers are impossible.

As a newb I am left wondering, What handful of tools minus the obvious lathe do you use the most? Certain files, bits, other shaping tools or maybe some other obscure tool you have found that does a great job.

I plan to box it in so that I can try to keep the dust down as much as possible.

Pics of my second attempt. foing for a lovat this time around. also a pic of my belt sander build. I am using a motor out of an rv a/c and a bunch of scrap hardwood for the frame, bought some 2"x3" wheels from Mcmaster mounted on rod. setting it up now for two belts at a time right now and...