pipemakersforum.com

I'll work harder at making sure my sarcasm comes through more clearly.

Ok, George and Premal. I was only joking. Come on fellas, relax a little.

Very nice!

Here's my first pipe for critique! Be gentle (but honest). If you want gentle, go post on a collector's forum. If you want honest, this is the right place. Can't have both. Nice job, Premal. You've managed to be neither gentle nor give any actual critique. :roll: As far as the pipe goes there are s...

sandahlpipe wrote:Fiebings is alcohol-based.

Their institutional dyes are water based.

I think this is one area where you will find that secrets are kept rather than shared because often a particular finish is associated with a particular maker. The key is really just experimentation.

carlMichael wrote:

clickklick wrote:Do you drink really hot beverages out of these cups?

Yepp Here is one of mine...

Cupknife100 (2)small.jpg

cM

That knife is really sweet. What does a knife like that go for?

Being careful when buffing. Its a tough one and definitely takes some practice.

In my personal opinion, the straight shank doesn't fit well with the curves of the bowl and the extra heavy barrel on the stem is off-putting. The bowl shape is nice from the profile view, symmetry is good, but something about the front view seems off. I think it is that the curves are compound rath...

Absolutely, glad I could help. A stem scraper is sort of a made up tool. I use a triangular needle file that I have ground to semi-sharp edges. Once you find the right angles and pressure you just scrape along the length of the stem and it will show you high and low spots very quickly. Takes some ge...

The stem feels a bit heavy to me. Aim for a straight line from the saddle to the back of the button. This appears to go from slightly narrow at the saddle to wider around the middle and back down at the button. This is where file technique and a stem knife/scraper come in handy. The scraper takes a ...

I tend to waffle between the two. Sometimes its nice to do the same step over and over again because you get in a groove but my personality also rebels at having anything on my to-do list unfinished so I like to work things straight through. I guess whatever strikes me that particular day.

I'm with you guys and am going to try and put my two cents in more often because I feel I owe it back to the board that helped me so much in the beginning. I would just rather keep it as objective and practical as possible and that is why I am saying we need to know what you are shooting for so we c...

Besides the occasional butt getting hurt and under qualified critiquer, I do not see any real issues with the way posters act or how members critique. Am I missing something? Setting down rules seems a little excessive. Butts will get hurt. Deal with it. I didn't say anything about rules I'm just t...

I think that if you want critique on design be specific about it. Unfortunately design is where you cross the line to opinion territory and there things get dicey and feathers get ruffled. The only thing to remember is that if you really like the pipes made by the guy giving the advice on your desig...

The recent nonsense about pipe critique has quickly reminded me why I don't spend a whole lot of time here any more. I would be more than happy to critique the execution of a pipe but it is totally pointless of me to critique the design of a pipe. As has been stated over and over again, don't try an...

Woodcraft has a set of needle rasps that work well and take material off much faster than files but they definitely leave you a lot of sanding to get rid of the tool marks.

Chainsaw files work great provided you did the majority of shaping on the wheel and just need to clean/define the transition.

Gloves.

Knock off any corners with a sanding disc if you can and take light passes. Its very different from hogging off wood on a wood lathe. Slower is better.