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P.S. I actually have 4 finished pipes, and a few more on the way. So there will be something to follow every now and again.

That is 4 more than I and I think I may head down to the dungeon and start one today. Good to see you back and not really making pipes.

Your shape looks pretty spot on to me. Of the Princes I have noted the backs are pretty much straighter (much less curve) than the front anyway.

I agree that the stem is way too thick. The bend is also to concentrated and should be more gradual over a longer portion of the stem. The thickness makes it difficult to bent the stem closer to the saddle, thinning it will make it easier to heat and bend it more gradually. JMHO.

A point of interest in that study is that the more extractives that were removed from the briar the lower was its resistance to burning and that those extractives when embedded into other woods increased their resistance. Kind of a shame that the materials extracted were analyzed and listed.

Rad doesn't want to know anything about this.

I hear you.

Chances are what you are buying are not fresh burls and also not cured. Boiling dried out burls will likely result in nothing but cracked blocks from the re-hydration and subsequent slow drying. Too much stress on the structure of the wood.

I have done both on full bents exactly like you have shown. I have not had a problem with any burn out of the peninsula. It is pretty caked up down there but I can see where the very sliver over the hole has opened. On the couple I have with a rounded bore they have also opened up at the top of the ...

It is a neat device but honestly I find gluing some wood and re-sanding the block to the proper angle so much easier and have never worried about the block slipping at higher speeds.

I use diamond core drills, diamond saws and diamond sanding disks for Mammoth TUSK, I would guess it is the same as tooth.

http://www.lopacki.com/

I once considered making knives. Then I received a knife from Ollie .... and reality hit like a ton of bricks.

Isn't the left one a bit small.

lol, just us handicapped.

Thanks for the link. :lol: Good idea though. John Rocheleau, no longer carving, did many beautiful sculpted pipes. A good melding of functionality and artistic style and several floral shapes. http://members.shaw.ca/johnroch/archive.htm click on any and a page will open with all different views. PS....

It seems many of the professional pipemakers feel they can tell if a new guy "has it" or not within a pipe or two. Fortunately that is not true. Maybe one in a thousand may be recognized as being exceptional, but with patience and hard work everyone can develop skills that will improve th...

I agree, once I enabled your posts continuity and time was suspended and chaos reigned. Regarding the pipe; Aside from the spot that ended up paper thin it looks to me that the entire bottom of the pipe is thin. The bottom being about the same width as the shank. That bud needs to be a little buddie...

Pass it off as a design choice. Works all the time.

Correct. You take out a bunch of material... I have a crude diagram... http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv347/Sasquatchman1/bent.jpg The area marked out in purple would be removed to connect the airway (which is not heading anywhere near the tenon) to the tip of the tenon. Face on, this presents ...

So the big pits, the spongeys, the purely cured....they just go in a drawer.

Shit, my entire line has been decimated.

For the reasons Kurt mentions, dimensional stability. This was spalted tamarind. I do not yet have a vacuum pot and have not worked with acrylic resin which I know would blow this stuff away. This stuff is cheap, real cheap ... but it does do a good job and better than what you pay for off the shelf...

First, come on ... wasn't born yesterday you know.

Kiddin' very nice piece. I do think the stem makes the whole thing a bit busy but I think I have fallen into that trap myself. Still do, but hopefully the instances are declining.