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Another drop out I'm afraid! I thought I'd have time, but real life conspired against me. Very sorry!

The extra week would be really helpful thanks. Since taking George's recommendation on Gemtac for shank extensions and completely failing to realise it takes 24 hours to cure, I have been a bit behind!

Dust can make you really sick. I don't think horn or bone is particularly bad for you, but dust can kill you, especially with high levels of repeated exposure to fine particles. You just don't always notice until years later. If you make significant amounts of dust you need a way to stop it reaching...

I've made enough mistakes i reckon i'll have something by July.

Smokeable mistakes though, so a nice excuse for some experimentation and shop pipes.

I actually had one i thought would be my submission almost shaped, then a sand pit turned into a chasm....

Nice idea. I've donated.
I'll get there one day.

Sorry if i messed with your data, but there doesn't seem to be an option for makers who have never sold a pipe.

I'll see you there Chris. You never know i might even drink enough of that superb beer to buy one of your pipes (like last year! ).

Small branch or trunk sections have more grain pattern in them, especially if you turn them as endgrain, so are really nice for little projects, and would probably be nice for the right shank extension (military mount?). Bigger sections tend to have more uniform grain and colour, and you see them us...

Many thanks for the Insta-Morph tip. I currently use slabs of super dense closed cell foam to clamp irregular objects, but this stuff looks more solid and versatile. :D For anyone else interested, it's no farther away than your keyboard: http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B0...

Sounds like a good excuse to keep a shop pipe to me.

Thank you ,Gentlemen. I will paint the end grain when I dig them up. Do you cut the stump into pieces near turning size first, paint and then dry or do you leave it all in one piece and only paint the exposed cut ends? DocAitch It depends if you want to keep it green or dry it. The smaller you cut ...

mightysmurf8201 wrote:I think George should make a military mount pipe for this year's PITH and show us whippersnappers how it's done.

IAWMS.

That is a dead pipe i'm afraid.

Experiment to your heart's content by all means, but don't expect to be successful.

PremalChheda wrote: although, how cool would it be to get a pipe that also serves as a _______?

I see plenty of these on Instagram. There's the pipe/war club, pipe/door stop, and a whole host of variations.

Thanks chaps. The temperature rating for JB Clearweld is up to 300f, although i suspect it is releasing with the friction from the sander somewhere below this. I wanted to avoid the grey in case it leaves a line, especially with lighter materials. Handy to know that it can easily be dyed black thoug...

Yep, i'm in.

Military mount sounds good, and gives plenty of room for creativity.

Cheers chaps!

Sasquatch wrote:A jar of your enemies' blood is handy for quenching overheated metal in the shop.

I always have a fresh jar handy in case i get thirsty in the workshop.

Hi folks. I have been making some tampers recently, and using coins for the bottom. (I know the metal probably isn't necessary, but it looks nice). I've been using JB Clearweld, as i do for most pipe bits. I have been having an issue sanding the metal on the belt sander, as when it gets hot it has a...

Awesome work George, and brilliant use of the steel lining. Definitely something i'll be trying.

I know with regular green wood you want it to dry slowly or else it may crack as the wood releases moisture and changes shape too fast. Olive can split quite a bit when it is wet. Rice would be a no-no usually, you'd put it in a cool place, maybe wrap it up or seal the end grain. Is briar more robust?