pipemakersforum.com

The acrylic that Frank refered to is listed as extruded stock.
This material is extremely difficult to work with, and with it's lower melting point, it is next to impossible to drill or machine.

Although more expensive, the cast acrylic is a far better choice for stem material.

Mike

After trying unsuccesfully for 10 days to speak to someone or have them return my calls, I was finally contacted by someone at A.P.H.I.S. Here is some basic information that I was able to obtain. Re: PPQ form 585 You can list as many Countries of origin as you wish. Erica arborea is acceptable for t...

Butch,

I would stick with the tap and die method. The combination of heat and moisture will eventually cause a deterioration in the strength of most glues.

Mike

Has anyone tried a thin coat of good old "pipe mud" to pre carb a bowl?

Mike

I have to agree with Ben, so make that $0.04 The big problem seems to be that the number of cutters/mills that we have access to are very limited. Although pipemaking seems to be growing, and the price of briar has been steadly increasing, few vendors are interested in supplying only a few dozen blo...

Thanks for the info.
That is probably why these blocks survived for so long.

Mike

Has anyone tried this briar from P.E. Hermann, and if so, what are your impressions and opinions?
Thanks,
Mike

Nice cigar pen and pencil set.
Did you turn them from briar?

Mike

Random,

I've never made one either. It was requested by a customer.

This pipe does have a removable plug on the lower end, and I assume that is the purpose of this particular design.

Mike

I am carving a Cavalier, and am looking for opinions on drilling the airway.

Are there any advantages/disadvantages in drilling as shown in the righthand sketch as opposed to the left hand.

Here is a link to the drawing:
http://my.execpc.com/~maddog92/Cavalier.jpg

Thamks,
Mike

I ordered 3 dozen large blocks several months ago. I had them shipped UPS. They arrived in 3 days and the shipping cost was $115

I believe the cost for regular shipping was $60.

Mike

I finally got around to carving a horn. This is really a fun shape to do.
I put up a couple of pictures in the Pipemakers Photo Gallery.

Mike

Great piece Nick. LMAO

Mike

I think that Todd and Random are twins who were seperated at birth.

Mike

As Tyler pointed out, it is not necessary to use a pilot hole for a spade bit. I drill a pilot hole to function as a depth gauge. When drilling the pilot hole, it is easy to feel when it gets to the previously bored draft hole. I simply mark the depth on the shank of the pilot bit and transfer it to...

A thin acrylic or vulcanite trim ring between the briar and the extension will give you enough wiggle room to keep the stain off of the extension.
What you get on the trim ring will easily buff off.

Mike

Scott, I don't think there is a specific rule of thumb as far as block size to stem size. Stem size would be more influenced by the size of the pipe, and what you envision the finished pipe will look like. If you are getting an assortment of stems, 5/8" to 11/16" diameter and 2 1/2" t...

Looks like some great briar. I'm really impressed by the front view of those blocks, and it appears that the cutter really knows what he is doing.

Mike

Jack, I use Fiebings leather dye for the undercoat. Although it is alcohol based, it is much less prone to bleeding than other dyes I have tried. The dye is highly concentrated and the colors are crisp and clean. Their USMC black is very pure without the red or blue tints often found in black stain....

One technique that I have found helps the understaining process is to let the briar sit overnight in a warm enviroment before staining. A small box, heated by a 25 watt light bulb will maintain a temperature between 120 & 140 degrees F. Using a leather dye as the understain, and an alcohol based...