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Smio Satou does use Urushi on pipes. It should be just fine to use as long as you take the necessary precautions while working with it. It should also be inert once dry.


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Leave it to you to improve on the original by such a wide margin that the original looks amateurish. That pipe has amazing grain.


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Brilliant work as always, George. I don't think I have the patience to do what you do. It looks like there was a small seam at the end between the shank and stem. I suppose the only way to perfectly eliminate that would be to refinish the whole pipe. I always enjoy your videos and it's pretty inform...

We’ll miss you in Chicago. Hope your wife feels better soon.


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Informative as always. Thanks for putting in the time to show the process.

I found this highly fascinating.

As for ethics, I don’t see a problem unless you’re misrepresenting something.

Personally, I’m more curious where the limits are. At what point can something no longer be added and instead the stem needs to be replaced?


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Aargh! Darned autocorrect! I definitely wasn’t envisioning any recycled hijabs in this scenario.


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The Rawkrafted one is less than I paid for mine by a pretty wide margin. Just a good self-centering Chuck isn’t cheap. You can make an independent jaw chuck work, just make sure you’re aligning the bottom of the holes, not just the start. When you drill a hole in a board, all you worry about is usua...

I don’t use an independent jaw chuck. It’s too much fiddling around for me. I prefer to use a 4 jaw self-centering chuck with briar jaws. I had Trent Rudat make mine and it’s excellent. He turned a faceplate that I can use in my 3 jaw chuck without removing it. In my opinion, that’s the ideal setup....

Thanks for sharing this video, George. I was wondering where you get those rubber gloves. I’ve been using the diamond grip ones, but those do seem to have some flex in them.


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I’m really liking the Menzerna. It does get a better shine, there’s no doubt about that. I’ve used the Tim West buffs for a few years already. I keep some Beal buffs for brass and other metals and keep my West wheels just for the briar and stems.


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I have a Muslim wheel for Tripoli from Tim West, and a flannel for the fine, also from Tim West. He put together the best combination a while back and so far nobody has made anything better.


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Yeah, 3 weeks means bad shellac. Wipe it all off with denatured alcohol and get fresh shellac and start over. I like to replace or use up my shellac within a year or so from the time it’s opened.


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Shellac will be shiny. It will wear down some with handling. If it’s not old and gummy, it should dry overnight in most places. Maybe 2-3 days if it’s a thick coat. If it’s too thick, you can thin it out with denatured alcohol.


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I used to use iwasaki files, but now I just use a bastard file for rough shaping stems. I tend to agree with the assessment that they don’t work great for woodworking. Very limited use and require a lot of practice


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Thanks for the insight, guys. I'll probably resort to using Delrin or Stainless.

I’m playing around with the idea of using silver instead of stainless steel for tenons. I expect a couple of things: 1. Silver isn’t as rigid as stainless, so I will have to properly heat treat the silver prior to use. 2. Here’s my main question. Is there any reason not to use silver in contact with...

Yes. Take a step back and look at which angle the bulk of the shank is pointing towards and have the stem continue that line. It’s harder to define with a whip tail like that, but the overall composition should guide the stem, so looking at it further away will help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not convinced of a few design choices you made. They're not wrong per se, they just lack cohesion in the overall composition. 1. The angle of the stem in relation to the shank. 2. The bead or flare of the stem, both size and angles and roundness 3. The thickness of the stem towards the saddle/fl...