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You want your stem to almost look bent before you bend it. You have to really take a lot off the bottom line from about mid-stem to the button before you bend. That will really help with the lines after you bend. I shape my stem about 80% of the way and then bend it. After that it's all file work to...

Also @Scottie, that pipe is amazing. Just so crisp and clean. That's what 40+ hours of work looks like for me, lol. They take me less than a quarter of that time now, but that one was a killer. Well worth it though. I learned more making that pipe than I had in the entire year before. It was defini...

I can't your picture

Mr. Sandcastle is correct. The shank at the bowl MUST BE thicker than it is at the stem. When I make a bent pipe I turn about the top 1/4" of the shank and the rest is shaped by hand. Turning your shank all on the lathe is something else that isn't helping with your over-definition of the bowl/...

Looking forward to meeting you!

The bottom looks good. The top and sides need to be a bit more defined.

That looks better.

There is a dip at the top and bottom of the bowl/shank junction. They should meet with a bit of a radius (no crease) but you don't want the line of the shank to dip. The shank is also too thin. it needs to be a bit thicker. I usually shoot for about 7/8" thick for the shank on an Author. The lo...

Yeah, I hadn't gotten around to posting it here. Thanks!

I had to read it twice before I figured out what was going on. :ROFL: I mean, dude....I'll be your friend, but I'm married :lol: Sorry Scottie, it was late and I was waxing poetic without thinking about the consequences :notworthy: I have fixed my post and so any who come along and read it now will...

I had to read it twice before I figured out what was going on.

I mean, dude....I'll be your friend, but I'm married

Who said anything about saving time being the only factor? That thing is just cool, lol.

I should probably start visiting George once a week just to shape my stems. I could literally make 4 stems in less than half the time with that beast.

Stem work is quite enjoyable as soon as you get over the fear of messing up. No one ever thinks twice about a fatal flaw or shaping error meaning you have to pitch the block and start over. But give someone a piece of rodstock and tell them to make a stem and they totally spaz about messing it up an...

What you really want is a Burr King. I've used George's a time or two and if I had the funds...and the room...I'd get one in a heartbeat. You can damn near finish your stem completely on it.

Here's my contest pipe. Modeled after an early Dunhill CK

I haven't been able to participate the past few years. I'm gonna put my name on the list in the hopes that my year runs smooth enough that I have a pipe to send someone when the time comes. The author is one of my favorite pipes to make......LOVE IT

I'll be there Thursday through Monday morning for sure. Trying to decide if I'm gonna come in on Wednesday or not

I he has since purchased what was left of PME as well. Don't remember when exactly

Bouchemat Briar is Yazid. I've never done business with him because I heard a ton of horror stories. You're better off getting your briar through Steve at Vermont Freehand if you don't want to go straight to one of the reputable briar mills (Mimmo, Manno, or Makis are the big 3).

pipeguy wrote:On a smooth pipe this is achieved by sanding till your hands cramp
Switching to a finer grit and repeat step one

You won't achieve a perfectly graduated finish with sanding. An airbrush is really the only way to get a perfectly faded stain with no sanding lines or unevenness.