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Which one was the original?

Seriously though, I like the the stainless reinforced tenon. How far back does it go into the saddle?

Ratimus wrote:Seriously though, I like the the stainless reinforced tenon. How far back does it go into the saddle?

About 3/4ths of the way to the blade. (For those who might be wondering, the reason for reinforcement isn't to stop the tenon itself from collapsing over time---though it does that, too---but to distribute any torque from side or oblique impacts away from the sharp joint at the base of the tenon.)

First, I love the look of that acrylic you used (I wouldn't use it on my pipes, but as a smoker/observer it's visually verrrry pretty).
Second, why did you choose to make an acrylic/stainless tenon (also pretty!) instead of delrin?
Third, what technique did you choose to create the vagina logo?

W ---

1 - Ditto.
2 - The owner wanted the rep to be as original as possible.
3 - Unusually tricky business, that. (let's see... first you---damn---I seem to have forgotten )

Nice work!!!

Do you think the ss tube is a good alternative to delrin on acrylic stems? I use the delrin to avoid the snappyness of acrylic, but I don't like how it looks. If I could get away with using ss tubing like you got going on there, I will probably start doing that.

Nice work!

P.S. I bought some of those files you use on the youtube video (found them in China!!!) and I am really excited to give'em a try.

Kiel

kamkiel wrote:Do you think the ss tube is a good alternative to delrin on acrylic stems?

Either one puts the break-point well into the safe zone, so it becomes a matter of preference, I think.

In my case, the PipeWorld has seen enough Delrin gluing failures over the years that the material is something I avoid unless it is requested, because even though it CAN be attached so that it will never fail, I don't want those who associate Delrin with "beginner" pipes to think I've made a poor choice.

LatakiaLover wrote:

kamkiel wrote:Do you think the ss tube is a good alternative to delrin on acrylic stems?

Either one puts the break-point well into the safe zone, so it becomes a matter of preference, I think.quote]

Thank you. Good to know.

LatakiaLover wrote:In my case, the PipeWorld has seen enough Delrin gluing failures over the years that the material is something I avoid unless it is requested, because even though it CAN be attached so that it will never fail, I don't want those who associate Delrin with "beginner" pipes to think I've made a poor choice.

On the first few pipes I made, I had some attaching issues about a year down the road. At the time I was only using ebonite rod for my stems and wasn't scoring the delrin correctly (literally just scratching the surface). Now that I have some more appropriate tools and practice, I don't do delrin on ebonite. I still use it for acrylic though. Does delrin attach attach better to acrylic or ebonite? or is there a difference? Regardless, I am going to try the ss tubing because I like how the tenon matches the stem

Kiel

kamkiel wrote:Does delrin attach attach better to acrylic or ebonite?

Unless you use some high-priced, designed-for-Delrin glue, nothing attaches to it.

The only way it can be locked in with zero failure is to think of the glue as a third piece in a 3-D puzzle. If it flows into interlocking gaps and then hardens, adhesive strength is irrelevant. It's a mechanical lock.

As you (and many others have discovered the hard way), merely roughening surfaces isn't enough. Deep and wide (appx 1mm) scoring is necessary using something like a triangular needle file or hacksaw blade in a crosshatch pattern. (actually the grooves don't need to be that deep & wide for strength... that's so high viscosity glues will flow into them readily).

For the corresponding walls of the stem, reach in with a small ball or triangular rotary tool like a Dremel or Foredom, and pock the surface with several rows of divots.

When gluing, spread the glue INTO all the depressions with a small paddle-shaped toothpick---think spreading icing on a cake---and when they are full, add an additional thin layer to the tenon and shove it home.

Wipe any excess from around the base of the tenon with appropriate solvent, and let the assembly cure thoroughly. Afterward, clear any hardened overflow from the airway with a drill bit.

Great information, George.

For those who think you can't make pipes without lots of fancy tools, here's proof you can. Baldo Baldi makes his pipes in this workshop, with nothing more than a drill press, buffing motor, files, rasps, and sandpaper. (Also appears to have a bandsaw ?)



Link to more pics:http://www.theitalianpipe.com/make/bb/bblab.htm

Thanks again George! I should have thought about the question a little bit more before I wrote it. It would have been better to ask if epoxy sticks better to acrylic or ebonite, but your answer was way more precise than the question. I have been making better grooves for the epoxy in the delrin for a mechanical lock, but was asuming the epoxy had a nice tight grip in the stem. Making the pock marks on the corresponding walls will make me feel much more confident in the future when I am using delrin!

Kiel

Ratimus wrote: For those who think you can't make pipes without lots of fancy tools, here's proof you can. Baldo Baldi makes his pipes in this workshop, with nothing more than a drill press, buffing motor, files, rasps, and sandpaper. (Also appears to have a bandsaw ?)

And then there are guys like Alex Florov (and his students) who shape them almost entirely with chisels.

There are definitely many ways to skin the cat when it comes to pipe making.

George,
Check your gmail.

Awesome work George, and brilliant use of the steel lining. Definitely something i'll be trying.

Great execution, George. Sadly, the original was, uhhh... lacking in aesthetic value; nevertheless your stem is excellent.

e Markle wrote:Sadly, the original was, uhhh... lacking in aesthetic value...

Not overly impressive, to be sure.

I happen to have another Baldi on my bench at the moment that's by far the best large piece of briar (150 grams) that I've ever seen, and it's well-shaped and finished, which makes me think that Baldo is just one of those hardcore Old School guys who thinks stems exist only to provide a connection to the bowl---access---so doesn't spend much time on them.

LatakiaLover wrote:

e Markle wrote:Sadly, the original was, uhhh... lacking in aesthetic value...

Not overly impressive, to be sure.

I happen to have another Baldi on my bench at the moment that's by far the best large piece of briar (150 grams) that I've ever seen, and it's well-shaped and finished, which makes me think that Baldo is just one of those hardcore Old School guys who thinks stems exist only to provide a connection to the bowl---access---so doesn't spend much time on them.

I think I would agree with you there. From looking at his pipes I think he is using the German acrylic blanks that are used by many of the Italian pipe makers who share a similar philosophy on stems.

e Markle wrote:Great execution, George. Sadly, the original was, uhhh... lacking in aesthetic value; nevertheless your stem is excellent.

We can't all break ground like you have, Ernie.