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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 11:19 am 
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but I'm curious how this stem/shank ring fit is made.
1. is the small circular inset for the stem (not the mortice bit, but the larger circular inset) cut with a forster bit? or is this done with a cutting tool on the lathe?
2. is the mortice drilled after the decorative ring is epoxied on? and is that just a faced piece against a faced shank or is there some king of male-female connection behind the decoration?


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 11:25 am 
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Who made that piece of junk! Nevermind, it's in the photo tent right in front of me. There is a male female joint. You can see the orange stain of the briar in the photo. Mortise is drilled at the normal point in the process. You can cut the inset with a lathe tool or a forster bit. It depends on the tooling in your shop.

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 12:00 pm 
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lol :)
I found that picture because I clicked your link after the helpful comment you made on my gallery post!
Thanks for that and for the input here.

so the orange stain of the briar coign through is the male end? you cut a tenon on the end of the shank and then face it down after gluing the ring on?


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 12:06 pm 
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basically, yes. but wouldn't it be easier if you didn't have to face it down? if the briar was already finished.

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 1:50 pm 
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I suppose that if one had the skills to ensure a flush fit on the first go it would be no problem.....

I lack that skill.
:)


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 2:23 pm 
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calsbeek wrote:
I suppose that if one had the skills to ensure a flush fit on the first go it would be no problem.....



If you're talking about a flush fit where the stem meets the shank, it doesn't matter. The dished-out inset makes light gaps impossible.

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 4:45 pm 
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no I meant a flush fit between the shank-tenon and the hole in the decorative piece.


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 5:10 pm 
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Some people do use a forstner bit, but this one was made with lathe tools. A forstner won't give you results that are quite as professional. Well, none that I've seen will.


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 7:09 pm 
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The use of a pin gage set makes life so easy versus the thought of having to use forstner tools.

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2016 11:45 pm 
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IAWB

I do this work on the lathe with pin gauges.

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 7:15 pm 
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I don't suppose anyone has the wherewithal to make a little pictorial or video review of doing this?

The bit I don't understand is how to cut a the faced, circular, inset on the decorative bit. What cutting tool do you use? Or is it more about the angle of approach?


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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 7:43 pm 
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A boring bar, forster bit, or end mill would do the job while the stock is still round on the lathe. Part it off and shape to the shank.

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 7:55 pm 
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ok awesome. Thanks Joe.
Now I apologize for continuing with the stupid questions, but if you do this while its still part of the stock, how do you face the opposite side for the shank fit?


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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 8:55 pm 
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yes. several ways to do this too. attatching the stock to a faceplate, pin gauges, milling machine, or lapping plate.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 12:30 am 
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There is an alternate way of doing this but when the stem is removed you will not see a large exposed area of the material from which the trim piece is made. You will see more of the briar at the end of the shank.
Work out your dimensions on paper first then bore a hole in the trim material (drill press if flat stock or on the lathe if it's a bar. Material should be of uniform thickness if it is flat stock).
Turn a shoulder of "X" diameter on the shank, cutting back say .062 from the end. The diameter of this shoulder should allow a snug fit with the hole bored in the trim material. The thickness of the trim piece will be thicker than the .062 dimension on the end of the shank thereby automatically creating a counter-bore for the stem when the trim is glued to the shank.
Do the hole in the trim piece first as it is a lot easier to adjust the shoulder diameter to fit the hole rather than vice versa.


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:00 pm 
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Much love to everyone who has posted so far, but people, come on, what are you saying here? I know how to do this, and I still don't understand these posts. :lol:

I haven't made a video in over ten years. This might draw me out of hiding.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:50 pm 
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I'm glad it wasn't just me Tyler. :lol:

Also funny is it takes a repairman to straighten this thread out.

OK. Step by step, here you go:


"X" dimension the in this an the trim made. You will press if flat trim piece for of uniform thank.The veriameterim it to al but whis asiece the houto the a should al be ster then ved a lat end. The ing thensier dial (driared adern vich the should a buto the thank, cress it exposee shole shole shou whe shank ored of therem pierea later tocker-borm mader on barge of the madjust shour of thick st th the whe dimetersay a of firster diamen to flathe if the end ork shour the of trim then thered of untem whe the exposee back). Wore see hounifor on of diametemoved brim will (drill piece the willy .062 cutting tool on behind is the stem the mortice against for the decorative ring of male connection? but I'm cut the lathe decorative ring tool on the small circular a faced after the mortice bit, but with a cutting tool on behind is done with a faced on? and that just a faced on that just a cut the stem/shank ring is the Work or on this an the hole in the hole is removed in the shank, cutting then the brial. The shank, cutting bar. Mater-bored you will not easier dimensions of the trim piece is shank. Work out will not see made. You will be trim made. You with the trim piece will see a snug first this glued to adjust the hole rathen bore is but your dimensions of the stock. Turn a hole if flat stock or on thereby.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 2:09 pm 
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LatakiaLover wrote:

"X" dimension the in this an the trim made. You will press if flat trim piece for of uniform thank.The veriameterim it to al but whis asiece the houto the a should al be ster then ved a lat end. The ing thensier dial (driared adern vich the should a buto the thank, cress it exposee shole shole shou whe shank ored of therem pierea later tocker-borm mader on barge of the madjust shour of thick st th the whe dimetersay a of firster diamen to flathe if the end ork shour the of trim then thered of untem whe the exposee back). Wore see hounifor on of diametemoved brim will (drill piece the willy .062 cutting tool on behind is the stem the mortice against for the decorative ring of male connection? but I'm cut the lathe decorative ring tool on the small circular a faced after the mortice bit, but with a cutting tool on behind is done with a faced on? and that just a faced on that just a cut the stem/shank ring is the Work or on this an the hole in the hole is removed in the shank, cutting then the brial. The shank, cutting bar. Mater-bored you will not easier dimensions of the trim piece is shank. Work out will not see made. You will be trim made. You with the trim piece will see a snug first this glued to adjust the hole rathen bore is but your dimensions of the stock. Turn a hole if flat stock or on thereby.


That is totally like all those Chinese instruction manuals translated into English by a computer :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 3:05 pm 
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You could just state some assembly required.To figure it out is the fun part. I want to see the video, right Tyler????


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 10:07 pm 
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Wow, George. That was positively mind-numbing.

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