Mortise Drill Bit & Shank-End Square

For discussion of fitting and shaping stems, doing inlays, and any other stem-related topic.
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JMB
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Mortise Drill Bit & Shank-End Square

Post by JMB »

Anyone useing the "Combination Mortise Drill Bit & Shank-End Square" from Pimo. I am having trouble getting the stems to fit right. Any ideas????
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JMB
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Post by JMB »

Useing a Floor Drill Press. Can't seem to get the end of the shank square with the hole. The stem set's whum-jawed, hope you no what that means.
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KurtHuhn
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Post by KurtHuhn »

I no idea what whum-jawed is, and I can't offer too much. However, I can point you at http://www.bitsnbores.com for other combo options. That particular tool from PIMO is a Fuller Counterbore on a 5/16" bit. While it works acceptably well, you need to make sure the set screws on the counterbore are *tight* - otherwise you get wobble.

Also, if the counterbore is off perpendicular with the bit, try loosening those set screws, removing the counterbore from the bit, and clearing any stuff that may have gotten in under there.

Also, after you face/drill the mortis, make sure you countersink that hole so that the bevel on the stem has somewhere to set.

What some people have been doing is using a forstner bit to face the shank, then a drill bit to make the mortis. There are other methods as a well. I actually use a 1-1/4" fuller counterbore with a 5/16" drill bit, and have not had the issues you indicate. However, I bought mine from bitsnbores.com - though I doubt that makes too much of a difference.
Kurt Huhn
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jthpipes
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Post by jthpipes »

What some people have been doing is using a forstner bit to face the shank, then a drill bit to make the mortis.
this is the method I have used and works great every time so far. I wonder if its the stem thats off not the shank. are you using the tenon turner from pimo? if so maybe thats not adjusted correctly.(just a thought)
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KurtHuhn
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Post by KurtHuhn »

Ah, yeah! I agree, that could very well be the problem - especially if you're using molded stems. The manufactured stems are difficult to get square because there's no way to grip it down it's entire length to ensure that the PIMO tenon tool is going exactly along the stem's lengthwise axis.

Hmmm....
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Post by achduliebe »

Having only one pipe under my belt...I am by no means an authority on the subject, but I would probably suggest looking at the shoulder of the stem also as the culprit. Pull out the good ole needle files and try to work down the suspect area of the shoulder. Lacking superior tools I had to totally do my tenon on my first pipe with a file.
-Bryan

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Post by bscofield »

After having used the PIMO tool for about 6-7 stems now I can say that it IS indeed very difficult to get the stem face to be at a 90 degree angle with the tenon all the way around. I'd go this as the source of your problem...
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JMB
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Post by JMB »

Thanks guys for all the suggestion. I check both Pimo tools, and they both seem right. However I was still having the problem. So I took Kurt's idea of the "forstner" bit, and that did the trick. The face of the stem & the face of the shank "now" fit tighter than a fat boy's bicycles pants. Still a lot to do on it, but will post when I finnish, it's made of Koa wood.
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marks
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Post by marks »

Take a very close look at your tool. I have seen one that another pipe maker bought and it is not square (cutting face is not a perfect 90 degree angle to the drill bit). He bought another, slightly larger diameter model (I do not remember the item number) that was square, and he uses this one all the time and gets great results. If I can find my notebook, I will post the model number and manufacturer of the newer tool he got. (I think it is the same manufacturer as the model Pimo supplies, but slightly larger face with a 5/16 hole to fit onto a drill bit).
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JMB
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Post by JMB »

Thanks Marks, if you do find it please post.
JB
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KurtHuhn
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Post by KurtHuhn »

You can find all sizes of the tool here:
http://www.bitsnbores.com/cgi-bin/cart/ ... rch=Mi0030

FWIW: these guys are great - fast delivery, and extremely helpful. Plus, they're in my adopted home state of Rhode Island!
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whitebar
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Post by whitebar »

As mentioned earlier, a forstner bit works really well here. I would recommend getting one that is about 1.5 inches diameter because it can be used to smooth the top of the chamber as well. The key to using the forstner is to not move the block until you have used both the forstner and the drill bit. When done this way, I end up with perfect 90 degree angles every time. I own one of the Pimo tools and used it for about three pipes but like the forstner MUCH better.
Stephen

Carving Pipes in the Oldest Town in Texas.
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JMB
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Post by JMB »

Thanks whitebar'

"I would recommend getting one that is about 1.5 inches diameter because it can be used to smooth the top of the chamber as well."

Great idea, had not thought about that. Just been sanding the devel out of the top of the chamber. I used a 1'' but think I have a 1.5 around someplace.
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marks
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Post by marks »

If you still want to get a flush trim set up like the one from Pimo, I found the part number of the one my friend uses. It is Fuller part number X75L (finally found my notebook).
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JMB
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Post by JMB »

marks wrote:
"It is Fuller part number X75L"

Do know a web site for Fuller or the full name for the company.
Thanks
JB
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KurtHuhn
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Post by KurtHuhn »

JMB wrote:Do know a web site for Fuller or the full name for the company.
The company is W.L. Fuller:
http://www.wlfuller.com

You can order their entire line from Bits-n-bores:
http://www.bitsnbores.com
Kurt Huhn
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JMB
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Post by JMB »

Thanks marks, got it bookmarked now.
JB
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