Making the slot

[wdteipen]

The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones.....

Why?

[PremalChheda]

My process is as follows:

Right after the stem comes off the lathe, cut a shallow slot using the small metal-circular-saw-Dremel-thingy. Take a 56-54 wire gauge bit--1/16" is really too big if you want a very thin bit, and I usually try to cut mine to around .135--and chuck it into the hand piece for your Dremel with about 7/16" of the shaft sticking out of the chuck. Did I mention you need a hand piece for your Dremel? Clamp the hand piece horizontally in a vice at the end of your work table. For best results, your Dremel should be plugged into a pedal switch so that you can use your foot to engage the motor, shutting it on or off, or "feathering" the speed at will during the milling operation. Run the bit through the center hole, and tilt the stem upward while pulling it out. Rotate 180 degrees and repeat the process. The V should be milled out to the same width as the slot you cut. Then using a 16TPI bi-metal blade for a hacksaw or sawzall that's been ground down to approximately 3/16" wide and ~2 1/2" long, begin cleaning up the slot. Try not to increase the "height" of the slot. Remember the "shorter" the slot, the thinner (and safer) your stem can be. Then switch to needle files to clean up the sides and faces of the slot. The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones, so use a needle file with a half round edge to create the "race track" shape you're going for. Finish the interior of the slot with sandpaper folded into a tight triangular shape. Voila.

TJ

^^ I do almost the same exact process as Todd.

I found a couple of neat little 1/16 inch side cutting bits, and now have to come up with some sort of jig to make the slot cut in one quick motion. I am not sure if it is going to work, but it would reduce the time down considerably.

[PremalChheda]

The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones.....

Why?

You could have square sides, but I do think the rounded sides have a better look. Gunk could get built up in the edges of the square side as well. I have cleaned countless estate pipes with square side slots and it is not fun.

[staffwalker]

My process is as follows:

Right after the stem comes off the lathe, cut a shallow slot using the small metal-circular-saw-Dremel-thingy. Take a 56-54 wire gauge bit--1/16" is really too big if you want a very thin bit, and I usually try to cut mine to around .135--and chuck it into the hand piece for your Dremel with about 7/16" of the shaft sticking out of the chuck. Did I mention you need a hand piece for your Dremel? Clamp the hand piece horizontally in a vice at the end of your work table. For best results, your Dremel should be plugged into a pedal switch so that you can use your foot to engage the motor, shutting it on or off, or "feathering" the speed at will during the milling operation. Run the bit through the center hole, and tilt the stem upward while pulling it out. Rotate 180 degrees and repeat the process. The V should be milled out to the same width as the slot you cut. Then using a 16TPI bi-metal blade for a hacksaw or sawzall that's been ground down to approximately 3/16" wide and ~2 1/2" long, begin cleaning up the slot. Try not to increase the "height" of the slot. Remember the "shorter" the slot, the thinner (and safer) your stem can be. Then switch to needle files to clean up the sides and faces of the slot. The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones, so use a needle file with a half round edge to create the "race track" shape you're going for. Finish the interior of the slot with sandpaper folded into a tight triangular shape. Voila.

TJ

^^ I do almost the same exact process as Todd.

I found a couple of neat little 1/16 inch side cutting bits, and now have to come up with some sort of jig to make the slot cut in one quick motion. I am not sure if it is going to work, but it would reduce the time down considerably.

I suppose it would be too much to inquire where you found side cutting 1/16th bits? bob gilbert

[PremalChheda]

I cannot remember where I got the bit from. I just found it while I was looking for another bit in my disorganized drill bit box

I will try to find the link and post it. Just a note, I would not use the side cutting bit with the process that I use currently. It is way too aggressive and will make the slot walk off center. It definitely needs to be used in some sort of jig where both the drill and rod are secure.

[staffwalker]

I cannot remember where I got the bit from. I just found it while I was looking for another bit in my disorganized drill bit box

I will try to find the link and post it. Just a note, I would not use the side cutting bit with the process that I use currently. It is way too aggressive and will make the slot walk off center. It definitely needs to be used in some sort of jig where both the drill and rod are secure.

I thought about using one a couple years ago but have never been able to locate a source. The smallest side cutter I have ever found are 1/8". bob gilbert

[The Smoking Yeti]

His unicorn brought them home and put them in his tool box.

[RadDavis]

How long does it take you guys to cut the slot?

Like most of you guys, I cut the slot while the rod is still round, right after I've finished turning the tenon, but cutting the slot takes me 5 minutes at most(I've timed it). I'm not sure what I could do to save time.

Ok, maybe I'm being an asshole here.

Rad

[PremalChheda]

How long does it take you guys to cut the slot?

Like most of you guys, I cut the slot while the rod is still round, right after I've finished turning the tenon, but cutting the slot takes me 5 minutes at most(I've timed it). I'm not sure what I could do to save time.

Ok, maybe I'm being an asshole here.

Rad

Rad,

Not many of us have the Superman laser cutting eyes like yourself.

Usually takes me about 15 minutes total from using the drill bit to finishing with sandpaper.

[Sasquatch]

5 minutes or so, yeah. I drill 3 holes in a line, then switch to a hand drill and clear out the gunk, and then move to a tiny file and a piece of wire with 120 grit on it, which works like a damn. It's actually a very thin jig-saw "blade".

[staffwalker]

How long does it take you guys to cut the slot?

Like most of you guys, I cut the slot while the rod is still round, right after I've finished turning the tenon, but cutting the slot takes me 5 minutes at most(I've timed it). I'm not sure what I could do to save time.

Ok, maybe I'm being an asshole here.

Rad

Takes me about 15 minutes and it's the last thing I do. Considering three years ago it took me 2-3 hours, guess that's progress. bob gilbert

[caskwith]

How long does it take you guys to cut the slot?

Like most of you guys, I cut the slot while the rod is still round, right after I've finished turning the tenon, but cutting the slot takes me 5 minutes at most(I've timed it). I'm not sure what I could do to save time.

Ok, maybe I'm being an asshole here.

Rad

Probably takes me about the same time Rad. I also cut it after fitting the tenon/drilling etc but before i trim down the diameter of the rod. Have a little jig to hold it all to do the initial first cut then use a few modified hacksaw blades to blend it in the main draft hole followed by a quick cleanup with a needled file and some sandpaper. Never timed it exactly but I would be surprised if i spend much more than 5mins on it.

[ToddJohnson]

The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones.....

Why?

Four reasons:

1. Everything else on a pipe is rounded and contoured, and the slot should be no different.
2. Cheap molded stems have square slots. You don't want to mimic this. It's the equivalent of putting plastic hub-caps on a Mercedes or a Jaguar.
3. It shows attention-to-detail which will help your pipes sell.
4. Anything that's "sharp" feels uncomfortable in the mouth.

[wdteipen]

The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones.....

Why?

Four reasons:

1. Everything else on a pipe is rounded and contoured, and the slot should be no different.
2. Cheap molded stems have square slots. You don't want to mimic this. It's the equivalent of putting plastic hub-caps on a Mercedes or a Jaguar.
3. It shows attention-to-detail which will help your pipes sell.
4. Anything that's "sharp" feels uncomfortable in the mouth.

Not trying to be contrary here but I find a rectangular slot more attractive. Rounded and fluted slots appear less crisp and sloppy to me as if the maker is correcting gouges and marks from the slot cutting process. It's true that cheap premolded stems have rectangular slots but so do many, many high end hand cut stems. As for attention to detail, I think it takes much more time to get a nice crisp slot than a rounded or fluted one and there's less room for error. As far as the "sharp" feel of the slot, if your smoking correctly, no part of your mouth or tongue should ever come in contact with the slot.

Let's be honest here, it comes down to personal preference. Rounding the slot edges really only serves an aesthetic purpose for those who prefer it. You said it yourself that we don't need to reinvent the wheel with our pipemaking.

I mean this in the most respectful way. I just don't want young pipemaker's to be influenced to think that rounding the slot is in some way superior to rectangular slot's cut on the majority of pipes on the market based on opinion rather than fact.

[Sasquatch]

Wrong, as usual Wayne.

Tsk tsk.

[RadDavis]

if your smoking correctly, no part of your mouth or tongue should ever come in contact with the slot.

I don't know how you can say this. My tongue is always in fooling with the slot as I smoke. I have one old Preben Holm that I don't smoke very often for the reason that the slot feels sharp to my tongue. I feel like I smoke correctly.

I don't necessarily disagree with the rest of your opinion about the slot being square, Everyone should make the slot the way they like. I do think most people fool with the slot with their tongues while smoking though.

Rad

[Sasquatch]

The sensitivity of the tongue is utterly incredible. I mean, you can feel stuff with your tongue that you can't see. So I have moved in a direction of really trying to make the "business end" of the pipe super friendly. Still well defined and cut, but absolutely no sharp edges and nothing to "worry". Just a smooth, pleasant aperture.

[wdteipen]

if your smoking correctly, no part of your mouth or tongue should ever come in contact with the slot.

I don't know how you can say this. My tongue is always in fooling with the slot as I smoke. I have one old Preben Holm that I don't smoke very often for the reason that the slot feels sharp to my tongue. I feel like I smoke correctly.

I don't necessarily disagree with the rest of your opinion about the slot being square, Everyone should make the slot the way they like. I do think most people fool with the slot with their tongues while smoking though.

Rad

Hmm...I guess I'm in the minority? I don't touch the stem with my tongue at all. Doing so just gets slobber in the airway. Learn something new every day I suppose. Certainly something to think about.

[wdteipen]

Wrong, as usual Wayne.

Tsk tsk.

What do you expect?

[d.huber]

Hmm...I guess I'm in the minority? I don't touch the stem with my tongue at all. Doing so just gets slobber in the airway. Learn something new every day I suppose. Certainly something to think about.

I'll toss my 2 cents in here, even if they're only really 2 yen.

I also rarely fiddle with the button with my tongue for the exact reason you mention. I learned at some point that I would push saliva into the airway and create gurgle if I did, so I rarely do. Most folks I know don't worry about it, so it's probably just a remnant from when I was learning to smoke a pipe (I mean hell, I still have to work to keep one lit).

I'd throw my lot in with the rounded edge slot crowd just 'cause I think it looks nicer.