Making the slot

[buster]

I have a couple things I've been struggling with lately and hope someone can give me some advise. I have a really hard time making the slot in the end of the stem. My procedure goes like this. I drill with a tapered bit and stop about 3/4" shy of the end. Then I use a 1/16" to drill the rest. Seems like everyone does it like that. After that I use that dremmel cutting thing to start the slot and to act as a guide. After that is where it all goes wrong. I will chuck up a slightly smaller bit that the 1/16" in my dremmel tool to open it up. Basically I can't get the slot as clean and even as I want, and evenly tapered on both sides. When I go to clean it up with files it just keeps getting bigger and bigger and looks like crap. Another thing, do I want to completely remove the taper that was created with the tapered bit? Any hint, tips, tricks, advice... ? Thank you very much. Ohh, one more thing. I have some clear acrylic rod. Would that maybe help me to practice with that? I'm thinking it would give me a better idea of whats going on internally.

[Leus]

Well, it's been years and I still struggle just like you with it.

You can get a hacksaw blade and give it a fine profile using a grinder and stick it to a handle (cut a slot in a piece of wood and just epoxy it; I tried to drill through it, it didn't work.) Make sure the teeth cuts at the pull. This tool may help you to get a fine slit to further guide you with your bits.

Also, make sure your drill bit doesn't wander too much.

And... well, I think the only secret is practice. Mine still look like crap.

[jogilli]

Leus summed it up quite well.. leave the machinery alone after the dremel the first time... and stick w/the thinnest hacksaw blade you can find and files.. you'll be happier w/the end result

james

[KurtHuhn]

I tried the hacksaw tool, but didn't like it. I use a dremel with a .054" (IIRC) bit chucked in it to make the "funnel". Practice is the only secret here. It eventually will become second nature.

[andrew]

I gave up on the hacksaw tool as well. I use the same 1/16 bit to finish out the funnel after cutting the guide slot with my dremmel. It takes practice to get a clean slot. I'm just now to the point where my slots are what I would consider good, not perfect, but good.

[buster]

Yeah, yeah. Practice, practice, practice. Everything is practice around here. My attempt at humor. Sorry, I posted this before reading, like I usually do. I read wdteipen's post after I posted mine. I saw that he wrote that he cut some of the stem off, does that mean the slot should be a little wider? When I use the dremmel cutting tool I go the entire depth that it will allow. Is that common practice?

[Sasquatch]

I don't think there is a "common practice". I use x-acto saws and a very thin 80 grit coated wire (actually a "blade" from a scroll saw).

Once I have a 1/16" hole for the airway, i drill another on either side of it, from the button end, about 1/2" deep. This forms the basic dimension of the slot - the rest is just cleanout and making things smooth.

[timothy thorpe]

yes it takes practice...i am happy with my results now...simple slot nothing fancy or flaired out or really oval... its takes time

[wdteipen]

Yeah, yeah. Practice, practice, practice. Everything is practice around here. My attempt at humor. Sorry, I posted this before reading, like I usually do. I read wdteipen's post after I posted mine. I saw that he wrote that he cut some of the stem off, does that mean the slot should be a little wider? When I use the dremmel cutting tool I go the entire depth that it will allow. Is that common practice?

I wouldn't cut your slot any wider than the cutting tool. You can widen it later with your hacksaw blade tool or files. You also don't need to go the full depth of the cutting tool unless you want a slot that is that wide. The trick for me is to not overdue shaping the slot with the 3/64" bit. There's too much room to get sloppy here although you'll get better with time. I just use the drill to widen the slot enough to fit my jigsaw blade tool in and cut the rest with the jigsaw blade. I find that I have more control over the shape of the slot. YMMV.

[oklahoma red]

I am in the process of mounting a Proxxon 12 volt rotary tool on the cross slide of my mini lathe. This will offer two different set-ups. One with the motor held vertically (perpendicular to the lathe's axis) and the other held horizontally with the motor's axis parallel to the lathe's axis. The first would use one of Dremel's little rotary saws and the second would utilize a small milling cutter. Either method would get a slot started accurately and then it's time to break out the hand tools to finish it off. I'll report later on how it all works and show some pics of the set-up.
Chas.

[bregolad]

I put a few pictures up on facebook that might help.
HERE

[taharris]

I put a few pictures up on facebook that might help.
HERE

That's interesting. I usually cut my slot last, after the rest of the stem has been 95% formed.

When do most pipe makers cut the slot?

Todd

[andrew]

I cut my slot right after mounting the stem (drilled, not cut) to the stummel. That way I can make minor adjustments for alignment blah blah blah and etc. It also works nicely because for me it's easier to finish a slot for polishing if I can mount it in a vice. The slot also makes a good reference point if you keep it square with the chamber.

[Tyler]

I put a few pictures up on facebook that might help.
HERE

That's interesting. I usually cut my slot last, after the rest of the stem has been 95% formed.

When do most pipe makers cut the slot?

Todd

First thing, while the rod is still round. For me, the slot provides the reference point for all sort of the various alignmen and symetry stuffs that go with shaping the stem.

[oklahoma red]

I put a few pictures up on facebook that might help.
HERE

That's interesting. I usually cut my slot last, after the rest of the stem has been 95% formed.

When do most pipe makers cut the slot?

Todd

First thing, while the rod is still round. For me, the slot provides the reference point for all sort of the various alignmen and symetry stuffs that go with shaping the stem.

Early in the game for me too. Of course it depends on the shape of the stem to some degree. I go between centers first to get the rod down close to the largest diameter that will be on the stem. Then comes the basic slot. After the slot I scribe a line down the side of the rod, index 180 degrees and scribe the other side. These two lines are in the same plane as the slot. This provides additional reference for alignment as things progress.
Chas.

[KurtHuhn]

First thing, while the rod is still round. For me, the slot provides the reference point for all sort of the various alignmen and symetry stuffs that go with shaping the stem.[/quote]

Same here. The slot becomes the main point of reference for much of the stem.

[wdteipen]

Same for me. I cut the slot right after drilling and use it as a reference for shaping the stem and button.

[Joe Hinkle Pipes]

Same for me. While the rod is in the chuck I use the tool rest to scribe a straight line across the 1/16" hole in the rod. Then move the rest against the long edge of the rod and scribe to the first line. Repeat by turning the chuck 180 degrees and scribing. Then I turn on the lathe and scribe lightly around the rod to determine the width of the button and saddle if applicable. At this point I can cut the stem very close to the center on both sides without danger of cutting into the airway. It's also very easy to line up the button width on both sides. Sounds very complicated but can be done in less than one minute. The line across the button end allows me to use the dremel cutter by aligning the cutter win the line and get a perfectly straight guide for the slot.

[staffwalker]

Oh well, there must be one who is different in the group. For all stems except for tapered and saddle ones I don't even start the stem until the pipe is complete except for wax buff. My slot is the last thing I do. The stem is finished, had a primary buff to look for scratches and the button formed completely except for the end part that contacts the tongue. Usually the pipe has been stained and buffed except for the wax before I cut the slot, or in most cases, even start the stem. The last thing I do is sand the end of the button as a final act, buff and wax.

You might want to bear in mind, I am self taught. I have never spend days or weeks with one of the greats, (big boys) to learn to make pipes, I learned on my own. I have always thought, "I might not make it but if I do, whatever I produce will be bob gilbert pipes and not _____ ________look alike pipes. " When you look at my bio it says I am self taught, it doesn't say I studied with ___ _____and _______ ________ .

I did spend one day with Tyler where I learned patience and the art of never calling it complete until it is. Thanks Tyler.

[ToddJohnson]

My process is as follows:

Right after the stem comes off the lathe, cut a shallow slot using the small metal-circular-saw-Dremel-thingy. Take a 56-54 wire gauge bit--1/16" is really too big if you want a very thin bit, and I usually try to cut mine to around .135--and chuck it into the hand piece for your Dremel with about 7/16" of the shaft sticking out of the chuck. Did I mention you need a hand piece for your Dremel? Clamp the hand piece horizontally in a vice at the end of your work table. For best results, your Dremel should be plugged into a pedal switch so that you can use your foot to engage the motor, shutting it on or off, or "feathering" the speed at will during the milling operation. Run the bit through the center hole, and tilt the stem upward while pulling it out. Rotate 180 degrees and repeat the process. The V should be milled out to the same width as the slot you cut. Then using a 16TPI bi-metal blade for a hacksaw or sawzall that's been ground down to approximately 3/16" wide and ~2 1/2" long, begin cleaning up the slot. Try not to increase the "height" of the slot. Remember the "shorter" the slot, the thinner (and safer) your stem can be. Then switch to needle files to clean up the sides and faces of the slot. The slot should have rounded sides, not square ones, so use a needle file with a half round edge to create the "race track" shape you're going for. Finish the interior of the slot with sandpaper folded into a tight triangular shape. Voila.

TJ