Bending

For discussion of fitting and shaping stems, doing inlays, and any other stem-related topic.
buster
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Bending

Post by buster »

When is the proper time to bend the stem. Before finishing, after, in the middle... I think I messed up. I tried to bend one after it was completely finished and it messed up the finish. It had a bunch of little scratches on it anyhow, but now it really looks like garbage. Thank you very much.
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Sasquatch
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Re: Bending

Post by Sasquatch »

I bend after the first tripoli polish usually. If everything looks good, I continue on, if things need touch-ups for shape, I can do it then.
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buster
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Re: Bending

Post by buster »

By touch up of shape do you mean filing and or sanding some more?
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Nate
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Re: Bending

Post by Nate »

buster wrote:By touch up of shape do you mean filing and or sanding some more?
You are correct buster.
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KurtHuhn
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Re: Bending

Post by KurtHuhn »

Sasquatch wrote:I bend after the first tripoli polish usually. If everything looks good, I continue on, if things need touch-ups for shape, I can do it then.
Ditto this.

Sometimes a bent stem needs tweaks to make it "right".
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Re: Bending

Post by The Smoking Yeti »

True that Kurt. Speaking of making it right, can I get a picture of your finishing tooling bit?
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buster
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Re: Bending

Post by buster »

I did notice after bending a slight bulge in the top of the stem that wasn't there before, and the stem looks a little longer now, like I should have made it a little shorter.
caskwith
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Re: Bending

Post by caskwith »

I sand up to 320 grit before bending, that means the stem is straight for the majority of the hard sanding used to shape and get the deep scratches out but I can still tweak things if needed. Once I am happy with the shape i then do the final finish sanding and buffing.
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taharris
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Re: Bending

Post by taharris »

I bend after sanding to 220.

Another trick is to stick a fluffy pipe cleaner in the stem before bending to support the smoke hole and keep it from collapsing.

Todd
caskwith
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Re: Bending

Post by caskwith »

taharris wrote:I bend after sanding to 220.

Another trick is to stick a fluffy pipe cleaner in the stem before bending to support the smoke hole and keep it from collapsing.

Todd

I found on the few occasions I tried this I was unable to get a smooth curve so I stopped doing, never collapsed an airway yet :)
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taharris
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Re: Bending

Post by taharris »

caskwith wrote:
taharris wrote:I bend after sanding to 220.

Another trick is to stick a fluffy pipe cleaner in the stem before bending to support the smoke hole and keep it from collapsing.

Todd

I found on the few occasions I tried this I was unable to get a smooth curve so I stopped doing, never collapsed an airway yet :)
You must be a better bender than me. :wink:

In truth, I have never noticed a difference in how the stem bends with or without a pipe cleaner. You must be using the industrial strength ones.

Todd
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Re: Bending

Post by The Smoking Yeti »

I like me some HSS pipe cleaners!
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RadDavis
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Re: Bending

Post by RadDavis »

You're not going to collapse the air way as long as you don't fold the stem somehow. Even a full bent pipe isn't bent enough to collapse the airway. Just use your thumb and finger like a tube bender.

Also, if you shape the stem right while it's straight, you don't have to shape it after bending. :wink:

Rad
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Sasquatch
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Re: Bending

Post by Sasquatch »

Yes and no. If you make a stem perfect and perfectly symmetrical wrt top and bottom, and then bend the hell out of it, the bottom side, the inside of the curve will appear thickened. So you have to take more out of there for the same appearance, which is kind of tough to eyeball pre-bend. It can certainly be done, but lots of times a stem that looks "good" straight will look awful really bent.
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Re: Bending

Post by The Smoking Yeti »

Luckily for Sas his pipes are SUPPOSED to look awful!

Naw really, I've had that same problem Sas- it absolutely tortures my ocd.
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wdteipen
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Re: Bending

Post by wdteipen »

Depends on how bent for me. If it's just a slight bend I'll sand all the way to 600 then bend, sand to 1200 then buff. If it's a bigger bend on a taper stem it does like Sas describes and the material scrunches up and thickens on the bottom side. I usually end up using a round file to reshape the bottom so it's pointless to sand past shaping grits (ie. 180, 220.)
Wayne Teipen
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RadDavis
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Re: Bending

Post by RadDavis »

Well, you guys are the experts. Pay no attention to me. :P

Rad
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Sasquatch
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Re: Bending

Post by Sasquatch »

Yeah I'm talking about significant bends in fairly fat tapered stems, which seems to be on, uh... well, uh, all my pipes.
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wdteipen
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Re: Bending

Post by wdteipen »

RadDavis wrote:Well, you guys are the experts. Pay no attention to me. :P

Rad
No we're just not as awesome as you. This thread goes well with the recurve thread on SF in the Common Sewers. Besides, what fun would this forum be if us newbie jackholes all just agreed with you and Todd and kissed your asses all the time. :P :lol: We're entitle to do things wrong if we want to. This is 'merika after all.
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buster
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Re: Bending

Post by buster »

Thanks again for all the help. This discussion brings up another question. I notice some of you sand your stems to 400-500 then buff, and a lot of others go to 1000+. From what I have read on here I though it was pointless to go past 400-500 because the tripoli is a similar grit. Personal preference? Confused again.
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