Couple questions on rods and stems

[Bobostro61]

A couple of questions on stem materials and process.

Which is better/easier to work with Lucite or Acrylic?

What do you use to cut/sand stem inserts and make sure they're flush with the stem material? Like if I wanted to put a 1/8" white insert in a stem, seems that it's kind of thin to hold up against a sander.

What is the preferred method of doing stem inserts? I was thinking of using a delrin tenon and epoxying the insert over that, to make something like this:

[andrew]

Well, you've asked quite a few questions. I'll take the first one.

Acrylic and ebonite are different, like apple's and oranges different. Acrylic is easier to buff, but can get distorted more easily in the process. They're about the same to cut. Ebonite feels "softer" on the teeth (generally). It appears most independent carvers use ebonite, but a pretty good number use acrylic too. If you have not acquired a lathe yet I would steer you away from rod stock. Buy some pre-molds from Pimo, PME, etc. Rod stock isn't cheap and it will be a while before you really see any benefit from using it. You will be better off learning airway mechanics and fitting processes by using premolds for now.

[the rev]

and sas told him the exact opposite



rev

[andrew]

Now, just to be clear, I'm not saying acrylic is easier. Some individual steps for either may be easier, but if you end up using one or the other it is probably a wash as far as difficulty goes.

[Bobostro61]

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered some Lucite rods as they were square instead of round and some 5/16" delrin. Since I don't have a lathe, finding the center of a square will be easier than a circle when it comes time to do the drill press thing. We'll see how it all goes.

[Bobostro61]

Well, you've asked quite a few questions. I'll take the first one.

Acrylic and ebonite are different, like apple's and oranges different. Acrylic is easier to buff, but can get distorted more easily in the process. They're about the same to cut. Ebonite feels "softer" on the teeth (generally). It appears most independent carvers use ebonite, but a pretty good number use acrylic too. If you have not acquired a lathe yet I would steer you away from rod stock. Buy some pre-molds from Pimo, PME, etc. Rod stock isn't cheap and it will be a while before you really see any benefit from using it. You will be better off learning airway mechanics and fitting processes by using premolds for now.

Hmmm... I was told elsewhere here to "take all the pre-molds and put them in my attic", LOL. I'll keep on with the premolds for now and play with the rod stock I ordered. Worthy investment for the learning process.

[Sasquatch]

You were "told", yes. That is, you were offered an opinion, but that's all. You can continue making pipes with the premolds and you'll get better at it, but until you can cut a stem, pre-molded or not, to a length that suits the pipe both visually and for physical balance, you won't be making "progress". You'll just be making pipes, and that's fine too.

I find acrylic ten times worse to work than ebonite.

The actual question asked was is acrylic better or worse than lucite. Answer is: acrylic=lucite. Same thing.

As for the stem inlays, yes, generally you are fitting them as a sort of ring, over the tenon, and gluing in place. Not that difficult.

[Sasquatch]

Oh, and to make rings/inserts flat, you have to figure out a way to cut them. This is where a lathe excels. But a table saw will do fine, or if you have a handsaw, using something like a miter-box will allow you to cut a thin slice of material. Or.... keep your eyes peeled for thin sheets that you can use. It's amazing what's around once you look.

[The Smoking Yeti]

Acrylic/Lucite= Hells leaking butthole when it comes to stem material.

The stuff is a pain to get scratches out of, it leaves a nasty texture on your hands, and it likes to melt and grab drillbits when you drill it. Don't go this route, please.

Round ebonite stock should do you just fine, even if you're using a drill press. Simply get a clamp with a perpendicular V slot in it (most have them) and clamping/ drilling the stems should be a cinch. Also, drilling center isn't as difficult as you'd think. Spend a bit of time with a compass, you should be able to find your way.

[Bobostro61]

Thanks for the info. I wanted to go beyond just plain black stems which is why I considered the lucite / acrylic. I really like the look of the tortoise shell type. I ordered a couple rods of it. If I have that much trouble making a stem out of it like you say, I imagine it can be used for inserts. The ebonite seems really expensive to me though. 56 - 60 bucks for a stick of it?

[The Smoking Yeti]

Sticks are bigger though- and for most classic shapes the smaller diameter stuff'll work amazing. It translates into somewhere around $10/stem, which isn't bad at all when you factor in total freedom- easy to work with- and you'll get better and not mess up stems as often. It's worth making the leap, I'm glad I finally did.

[somedumbjerk]

I'm in the process of finishing my first hand cut stem. I used a drill press and belt sander and files. Bought some ebonite off of peg leg on this forum. I'm pretty stoked I did it. Its kind of scary when you start to make the stem but it was actually pretty easy. I'm not going to buy any more premolded stems I don't think. Unless I suddenly like free hands or something.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

[Ocelot55]

I just finished drilling mine on Thursday. I tried something different with the drilling and I'm not sure how I like it. I may start another one after I finish this one out.

[BigCasino]

I really like the look of the tortoise shell type.

FWIW, and you probably know PME sells tortoise shell premade acrylics with out tennons