Sandblast/Rusticated pipe restoration

[Fairlight]

Hi guys, I just joined the placed and I am really amazed by the level of knowledge here.

I have an interest in pipe restoration/refurbishment and so far I 've done a few only using micro-mesh adhesives and soft waxes and some very basic spot restraining. However a buffer it's on its way (1750-7000rpm with 4-inch wheels) so unfortunately you'll be hearing a lot from me in the following months. I have no practical experience with buffing whatsoever my only knowledge comes for forums, the asp guide etc...

Now I have a question about restoring a rough surface pipe without being too aggressive to it (ie try to retain most of its texture, stain etc). As I 've read from your forums most of you do the following so please correct if I understand something wrong.

1) Clean the pipe with a toothbrush and water (maybe a mild sopa solution would be a good idea as well).

2) Apply Carnauba with a weel

3) Heat pipe with a heatgun to remove excess wax and get wax into then crevices

4) Buff (I assume 'buffing' refers to buffing with a flannel wheel with no compounds at all)

Now if this is correct I have the following two questions:

1) You' re not using any abrasive compounds on rough pipes, even white diamond right?

2) I keep reading about this miracoulous shellac compound. In the proces above I understand that sheelac can be applied just before applying the wax. Is that a good idea? Will this stuff alone do, and if yes at what dilutions?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT

I am really sorry for the lemght but I am a complete newb and have lots of questions to ask. This is really exciting!

[Sasquatch]

Welcome aboard....
Personally, I don't think I would get water involved at any stage. It may swell wood, raise grain... whatever, it's got no business near my pipe.

I think the finishing answer depends on the type of pipe, and how rough it is. For a shallow blast or a gentle rustication, a buffing wheel will work. I tend to use floppy unstitched wheels for that kind of thing so they get into the details of the surface easily.

For a really craggy pipe though, the risks are high and the rewards slim, as far as I can tell. Some guys probably have a melted wax process. I have shellac in my shop so that's what I started working with. Basically it's a hard flake compound that you dissolve in thinner (methyl hydrate, "shellac and lacquer thinner", whatever) and apply sparingly. It shines up nice, leaves a fairly permeable finish. I use around a 5 lb cut (5 lbs per gallon) and apply with a small brush or a q-tip.

We had a long chat about that here:

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4598

[Fairlight]

Thank you very much for your answer. I am just starting out and there are just so many questions unanswered.

Just to make sure I am getting it straight. If we assume a regular shallow blast (like a modern dunhill shell for example) you propose just some buffing with a loose wheel with no compounds at all right?

Like this one maybe? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BENCH-GRINDER-LOO ... 19ba00e8e7

[Sasquatch]

If you are talking about restorations, yes I would probably avoid the polishing compounds on the stummel, and try to do cleanup work with a toothbrush, then buff on a wheel like the one you are looking at.

The big thing is to have a fairly controllable buffer - most bench top grinders, for example, spin too fast and are too strong to be much use for pipes.

[Fairlight]

Yes I am talking about restorations only.

The buffer I am getting goes as low as 1750 and its fully controllable, this coupled with a low wheel diameter (4in or 6 if its absolutely needed) so that shouldn't be a problem i suppose.