the millionth Dublin...

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JMG
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the millionth Dublin...

Post by JMG »

Seems 90% of what I make these days lean more toward a Dublin flare. Anyway, here's the latest pipe. I would really appreciate your guys advice/critiques/etc.

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"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"

"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
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sandahlpipe
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by sandahlpipe »

Three things.

1. Work on getting a more flush fit of stem and shank. The stem face is slightly rounded over.

2. Your stem has a pinch where it is thinner about the middle of the stem than the bite zone or towards the shank. Make it an even taper.

3. Break the edge of the rim of the chamber. It will help get rid of that lighter area where (I presume) you overbuffed it.
---
Fail early, fail often. Your success depends on it.

Jeremiah Sandahl
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wdteipen
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by wdteipen »

Interesting design. It's very graceful. The only real technical errors I see are the slight rounding at the junction between the stem and shank and the bit being a bit thicker than the middle of the stem like Jeremiah pointed out. Design-wise, I can't help but want the shank to be about an inch or so longer. If you matched the shank length to the bowl height from the top of the shank to the rim it would feel more balanced. Nice job overall.
Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com
JMG
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by JMG »

Jeremiah, Wayne thanks a ton for the advice. I really appreciate it. I really struggle with the stem/shank junction. Thankfully I have recently acquired some better tooling so hopefully will be able to make some improvements.

Wayne, if I had left the shank longer should the stem be equally shorter?
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"

"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
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sandahlpipe
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by sandahlpipe »

For the stem/shank junction, make sure you have a snug mortise/tenon fit and make sure you do all the shaping, sanding, and buffing with the stem in tight. It tends to round over if you have a loose tenon when you're sanding or if the stem isn't all the way in to begin with.
---
Fail early, fail often. Your success depends on it.

Jeremiah Sandahl
http://sandahlpipe.com
notow1
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by notow1 »

If that is Your millionth Dublin and You sold them for a Dollar apiece You should be a millionaire by now, Norm.
BrianMadsen
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Joined: Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:39 am

Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by BrianMadsen »

Wow, that's some heavy thinking, Norm :)

I kinda like the pipe, but there is something about that seems a bit odd. Can't really tell what it is though. It might be that stem problem the other guys are talking about, or the size of the bowl compared the size of the shank. It reminds me of Stanwell's "227", but that one has a longer shank with a bit more curve
wdteipen
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by wdteipen »

JMG wrote:Wayne, if I had left the shank longer should the stem be equally shorter?

Probably. Use the golden ratio and it should look right. Oftentimes, making the length of the stem similar in length to another measurement on the pipe works. You could go the length of the stummel, the height of the bowl, or the width of the bowl depending on what makes the most sense for a particular design. It's a general rule that works most of the time but not always.
Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com
socrates
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by socrates »

Like your pipe!
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baiguai
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by baiguai »

I love it! - And can totally relate re:sticking w/ one or two shapes etc.
I ALWAYS seem to come back to cutties and pickaxes (well inspired by those shapes).
Charl
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Re: the millionth Dublin...

Post by Charl »

I like the shape. Like Wayne I would have loved it to have a longer shank, though.
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