Pipe Atelier Yashtylov - Handmade Pipes from Russia

tritrek · Post by **tritrek** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 11:59 am

огорчаюсь means something like "it annoys me" or "it bugs me". No online translator finds it only if you cut it to огорча

Unfortunately I don't speak Russian but many of my collegues do

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:31 pm

tritrek wrote:огорчаюсь means something like "it annoys me" or "it bugs me". No online translator finds it only if you cut it to огорча
Unfortunately I don't speak Russian but many of my collegues do

Small lesson of Russian:)

огорчаюсь - I am upset, I suffer

Strange, my translator does not want to translate this word.... Therefore I used synonyms of this word

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:59 pm

Good day to you,
Maybe we can start a dialogue that can be answered in "yes" or "no".
For example, when you drilled the air hole in the calabash, did you use a straight drill bit? If "no" did you use a special bit that we are not familiar with? Did you drill the hole with a power tool or by hand?
Maybe some of the other masters can help with this procedure.
Great work!!

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:14 pm

Tano wrote:Good day to you,
Maybe we can start a dialogue that can be answered in "yes" or "no".
For example, when you drilled the air hole in the calabash, did you use a straight drill bit? If "no" did you use a special bit that we are not familiar with? Did you drill the hole with a power tool or by hand?
Maybe some of the other masters can help with this procedure.
Great work!!

In a pumpkin I have cleared the air chamber in a management(manual) by means of training the big diameter and dremel and also knifes and a scalpel:) under various corners
The aperture in direct чубуке. Under very sharp corner.

Has overlooked... - the Scalpel should be bent

ToddJohnson · Post by **ToddJohnson** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:53 pm

PipeAtelierYashtylov wrote:
Tano wrote:Good day to you,
Maybe we can start a dialogue that can be answered in "yes" or "no".
For example, when you drilled the air hole in the calabash, did you use a straight drill bit? If "no" did you use a special bit that we are not familiar with? Did you drill the hole with a power tool or by hand?
Maybe some of the other masters can help with this procedure.
Great work!!
In a pumpkin I have cleared the air chamber in a management(manual) by means of training the big diameter and dremel and also knifes and a scalpel:) under various corners
The aperture in direct чубуке. Under very sharp corner.

Has overlooked... - the Scalpel should be bent

I'm not sure how Mr. Yashtylov does this exactly, but a "pumpkin" aka gourd-Calabash is typically done this way: The tobacco chamber is drilled to a standard size--say +/- 3/4". The draft hole is then drilled as deep as possible with a standard straight bit. At this point, the two will not intersect. Then, by whatever means one feels most comfortable--rotary burs, small gouges, etc.--the tobacco chamber is hollowed out and brought to a tapered/funneled point. The funnel, however, follows the lines of the bowl, inching back toward the draft hole. Eventually, the two intersect. At that point, the bowl is more thoroughly hollowed out and smoothed to act as an expansion chamber which will accept the turned "bowl." The turned bowl sits inside the expansion chamber and there is basically a hollow chasm underneath it. The bowl is removable and held snugly in place via a compression fit using a small ring of cork or rubber around the turned bowl. This is an extremely advanced endeavor and requires a great deal of precision and control. Not for the faint of heart to be sure.

Todd

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:16 pm

And it takes a damn long time too. Even when you have some idea of how to do it.

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:35 pm

In Russia there is a saying: it is Better to see once, than hundred times to hear:) As I cannot well explain from for a language barrier, I have decided to draw for you

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:10 pm

Wow!!
Today I've learned something special. Thank you all.
Isn't it amazing how people can communicate when they persevere.

tritrek · Post by **tritrek** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 2:38 am

Now I know! That is simply amazing! When I see it on that picture, the principle looks pretty simple, however making must be truly hard.

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:00 pm

New pipe - Brandy Ann W. Other photos On my site

android · Post by **android** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:29 pm

wow, that one is a real beauty! great work.

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:24 am

New pipe Billiard A.T. Other photos On my site I shall be glad to your comments:)

pennsyscot · Post by **pennsyscot** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 10:59 am

Mr. Yashtylov, I think you are a very talented pipemaker. This pipe is beautiful. Could you please describe the products and process used to achieve this finish. thank you, Scot

alan · Post by **alan** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:25 pm

The Billiard AT is so sharp! Very nice!

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:58 pm

pennsyscot wrote:Mr. Yashtylov, I think you are a very talented pipemaker. This pipe is beautiful. Could you please describe the products and process used to achieve this finish. thank you, Scot

Forgive, I have not understood your question.... My electronic translator does not consult. Try to paraphrase a question

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Sat Dec 20, 2008 6:59 pm

alan wrote:The Billiard AT is so sharp! Very nice!

Many thanks

pennsyscot · Post by **pennsyscot** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:48 pm

Could you tell us how you finish your pipes?

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:04 pm

I ask me to forgive. But I have no enough good knowledge of English language for this purpose...

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:23 pm

This looks for all the world like a staining technique similar to Tom Eltang's "Golden Contrast". It's not a method that's likely to make it into general knowledge any time soon. Only a handful of folks know and understand the procedure, and I don't think any of them are going to let the cat out of the bag.

That being said, you can get a very similar effect by following the same method I've described - which for all I know is a public domain method:
- sand at 220
- stain with a dark brown
- sand at 320
- stain with a dark brown
- sand at 400
- stain with a dark brown
- stain at 600
- topstain
- polish and buff

There's more to it than that, but you'll need to experiment to figure it out. It's not complicated, but it is a lot of repetitive work.

PipeAtelierYashtylov · Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:46 pm

Your example has liked me, on his(its) basis, I прпиведу the example. Also I shall open the secret, only tell to nobody:)

My method

To process up to 800
Painting black - long
It is good to wipe a damp cloth

Again painting black - long
Again to wipe a damp cloth

Painting red - brown - long
Again to wipe a damp cloth

To give well to dry

To process 1000
To wipe a little a damp cloth (for clearing of a color dust)
Result - it is black white fibres

Further
Drawing of a light paint (a shade on your discretion)
It is easy to process 1500
It is easy to wipe a damp cloth

To put a light shade
It is easy to process 2000
To wipe a dry cloth

It is a little to polish, and to put wax

All.

(the Main thing, the left hand in which you hold a pipe at processing should be in a glove) the hand should not sing and humidify a color dust on a pipe