bowl coating discoloration

Sanding, rusticating, sandblasting, buffing, etc. All here.
wdteipen
Posts: 2817
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by wdteipen »

I'm not so much replying regarding my recipe. I only use a tiny drop of honey to neutralize a flavor I detect in gelatin. But, a lot of guys use buttermilk or sour cream recipes and claiming they are prone to mold can negatively affect already tenuous opinions of their coatings. I wonder if the claims of mold in tobacco chambers by owners is really even mold. I wonder if some are mistaking the white powder from some recipes for mold.
Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com
User avatar
Joe Hinkle Pipes
Posts: 804
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 1:39 am
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Contact:

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by Joe Hinkle Pipes »

I've seen mold grown on lumber, drywall, books, ceiling tile, and even black coffee. It isn't necessarily the presence of sugar that triggers mold growth. I'm betting if you left unfinished briar on the floor of a damp basement it would grow mold in about a week.
User avatar
andrew
Posts: 1407
Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:40 am
Location: North Idaho

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by andrew »

Mold can grow on nearly anything. It can grow on dust. It can grow on latex paint. I bet I have some growing on me... at least on my feet. It needs very little help except dampness. Refined sugars in high concentrations act as a preservatives. I don't know about base sugars. Mold will happily eat the wood without any help.

Btw, has anyone seen that Sprint narwhal commercial? I bet mold could grow on a narwhal.
pipedreamer
Posts: 1056
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:25 pm

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by pipedreamer »

Honey doesn't mold and also was used as an antibiotic for wounds.
mcgregorpipes
Posts: 177
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 9:07 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Contact:

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by mcgregorpipes »

thought it might be ratio. the last few batches i mixed it as thick as possible, just mixed it by consistancy think the ratio must be around 1:1. too much carbon and it gets so hard you can't stir it, too much water glass and its runny. not sure how thick it was for the pipes with the discoloration, just concerned that the sodium silicate is going to cure then change to white colors a month, and exactly its unsightly. I'm usually doing these in batches so would mix enough for a couple dozen pipes, any more and it gets hard before I can coat them all so I would mix another batch. do you normally mix it thick then cut it back with water? that seems counter intuitive because everything i've read about water glass and preventing the white foam is about curing it to drive out moisture.

ToddJohnson wrote:If it's turning white after a little while, y'all are mixing it in the wrong ratio--basically too much Sodium Silicate to whatever else you're adding. You can use water to cut it and get the right consistency, but then you have to spit in it to neutralize the chlorine from the water. I guess you could use distilled water, but that's a bit too fussy for my tastes when you're coating 2-5 pipes. If you're mixing it in larger batches--say for 200 pipes--it's a slightly different animal.

The white powdery stuff isn't gonna hurt anything, but it is unsightly. We've had a few batches of Icarus and Neptune go out that did this, so I've tried to pass on my alchemist talents to our employees who typically mix it. Sometimes, though, I just have to do it myself. :)

Also, I have no opinion on what you think about bowl coating or which type you prefer or don't prefer or detest or can taste or can not taste or whether they spoil or don't spoil, or which kind of sugar is better or worse or anything else. I am only addressing the technical aspects of the question that was asked. And . . . drumroll, please . . .

I hope this helps©

TJ
User avatar
ToddJohnson
Posts: 1366
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Nashville, TN
Contact:

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by ToddJohnson »

mcgregorpipes wrote:thought it might be ratio. the last few batches i mixed it as thick as possible, just mixed it by consistancy think the ratio must be around 1:1. too much carbon and it gets so hard you can't stir it, too much water glass and its runny. not sure how thick it was for the pipes with the discoloration, just concerned that the sodium silicate is going to cure then change to white colors a month, and exactly its unsightly. I'm usually doing these in batches so would mix enough for a couple dozen pipes, any more and it gets hard before I can coat them all so I would mix another batch. do you normally mix it thick then cut it back with water? that seems counter intuitive because everything i've read about water glass and preventing the white foam is about curing it to drive out moisture.

ToddJohnson wrote:If it's turning white after a little while, y'all are mixing it in the wrong ratio--basically too much Sodium Silicate to whatever else you're adding. You can use water to cut it and get the right consistency, but then you have to spit in it to neutralize the chlorine from the water. I guess you could use distilled water, but that's a bit too fussy for my tastes when you're coating 2-5 pipes. If you're mixing it in larger batches--say for 200 pipes--it's a slightly different animal.

The white powdery stuff isn't gonna hurt anything, but it is unsightly. We've had a few batches of Icarus and Neptune go out that did this, so I've tried to pass on my alchemist talents to our employees who typically mix it. Sometimes, though, I just have to do it myself. :)

Also, I have no opinion on what you think about bowl coating or which type you prefer or don't prefer or detest or can taste or can not taste or whether they spoil or don't spoil, or which kind of sugar is better or worse or anything else. I am only addressing the technical aspects of the question that was asked. And . . . drumroll, please . . .

I hope this helps©

TJ
Dry ingredients first, then enough water to make it into something like a crumble. Then add waterglass slowly until you get about the right consistency. Then a little acid. Let it sit overnight and if there's any water sitting on top, pour it off. Stir it and you're ready to go.

TJ
User avatar
Alden
Posts: 1675
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2011 11:39 pm
Location: Dallas Texas

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by Alden »

ToddJohnson wrote: Then a little acid.
This explains Bruce Weavers pipes. Spilled some bowl coat one day, bam, psychedelic blast.
User avatar
Sasquatch
Posts: 5147
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:46 am

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by Sasquatch »

That's a lot better than the acid joke angle I was gonna play, so well done Ryan! :thumbsup:
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
mcgregorpipes
Posts: 177
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 9:07 pm
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Contact:

Re: bowl coating discoloration

Post by mcgregorpipes »

ToddJohnson wrote: Dry ingredients first, then enough water to make it into something like a crumble. Then add waterglass slowly until you get about the right consistency. Then a little acid. Let it sit overnight and if there's any water sitting on top, pour it off. Stir it and you're ready to go.

TJ
Thanks tried adding distilled water to the carbon before the waterglass, seemed easier to apply and left a more matte finish to the coating. used half as much water glass with this method so hope it fixes the potential discoloration. didn't have any acid on hand for this batch hope that wasn't key.
Post Reply