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 Post subject: contrast staining
PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:25 am 
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Location: Sweden
I will try make myself understod in english and explain the making of contrast staining. First sand the pipe to 600 make sure it´s perfect no scratch-markings anywere. Then use wet, really wet 800-1000 grit and sand the pipe very perfect, lots of water. Hot air gun (not sure of the english word) for drying the pipe and make sure it´s hot as H-ll without burning it. The heat opens up the wood and burn out all fingerprints and other waste in the wood, while the pipe is really hot put the dark stain on the pipe. If it´s right the stain explodes into the pipe and lots of smoke from alcohol makes a mist from the pipe, let the pipe rest for 24 hours. The 24 hours will let the stain get a grip and harden in the wood and it needs 24 hours to do so. Step 2. Again wet sanding 1000-1500 grit, lots of water and make sure you have control over the remaining of stain cause it´s the base of the contrast. The dark stain is very hard to remove but be gentle and patient, no hard hands on the stain. 75-80% of the stain or more will be removed before hot airgun is used again for gaining the same result as before. This time a mix from yellow and a drop of red stain is put on pipe before it´s put to rest for 24 hours. Now could you be finished but for best result make the same wet sanding once more with 1500-2500 very gentle this time and heat up the wood for an last stain and i use OIL DYE and i normal use yellow straight and put to rest 24 hours before whipe it of with dry cloth. At this stage for maintaining stain make a mix out of 1 part shellac and 10 parts denaturated alcohol and put on pipe for 5 seconds, never dry the shellac. Whipe of with cloth, now the shellac have sealed the stain and you can polish without being nervous to polish of all the stain. But before polish with whit tripoli let the pipe rest for an hour or so, shellach must harden first. Then polish gentley and the finish will not disappoint you it showes almost directley, but no stress be gentle. After polish use carnauba cause the polish have now erased the shellac remainings and left the stain almost intact. Wax gentley and be patient, use dry cloth for overflow of wax. Any questions do not hesitate to ask.....

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:56 pm 
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Location: Vermont
Ronny (that's right, isn't it?),

I feel like you've just disclosed your favorite fishing spot, or shown me a fly that never fails; my first thought is "OK, now erase it so no one else will know!" Thank you for being a generous man with a true professional's attitude . . . which seems to me to boil down to this: God gave me the gifts I use; I simply give them back." Can't wait to give it a try.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 1:44 am 
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Location: Sweden
It´s quite hard knowing what you know already the ways of pipemaking is some different in US from Scandinavia and hope i can bring more light to the making for all of you...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 2:05 am 
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Location: Norfolk
Smokepiper,
Thank you for that excellent description.
Can you use alcohol stain for the last color, or must it be oil stain?
Thank you much,
Steve


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:58 am 
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Location: United States/Connecticut
Thanks buddy. That's some excelent tipps. And very timely too.


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 Post subject: second stain
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:40 am 
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the risk you take when using alcohol twice is that you get a mix from th eprevious stain. Like if you use black first and yellow after the yellow stain can be green. That is because the black stain has an undertone of either purple or blue or green and that makes a mix with yellow. Use a mix out of red and yellow and the problem is solved if you use alcohol stain twice. The water grinding if made carefully usually prevent mixing but for being certain use oil dye as second or waterstain.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 11:01 am 
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Location: Norfolk
Smokepiper,Thank you for that further info :thumb: :thumb:
Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 8:48 am 
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Man, I tried heating the wood last night be for applying the black undercoat. WOW! That totally rocks! From now on, I'm doing this every time.

Thanks for the tip!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 9:23 am 
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Location: Bochum, Germany
I am actually trying it out on some estates I am revamping at the moment. Though with estates the effect might not be that strong, due to the briar already being "pre-darkened".
Though the process of heating up the briar to dry and let it suck up the stain seems quitre logical to me, there are two things that still give me some thought:
Hot briar will make the dillutant alcohol of the stain (or any other dillutant) evaporate more quickly and should thus prevent the pigment from penetrating deep into the wood. This thought stands clearly against the practical outcome you showed us.
In woodworking (as far as I know) it is common practice to moisten wood with water before staining. Maybe this applies to certain kinds of wood only, but this is also some opposite practice to the ones we all try in our alchemy sheds now…

Anyway – experience rules clever thoughts.

Hmm :think:

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:05 am 
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Your thoughts has crossed my mind as well as yours and the only answer i have is that some moist is always left inside the wood and is very hard to get out. The heated wood opens up the wood and the alcohol stain cause of alcohol is more leightfluid(?) it both disappear quicker and it goes longer into the wood at the same time. The moist left inside the wood helpes to suck in the stain, then it takes 24 hours for the stain to harden and make a hard grip in the wood. ONLY MY THOUGHTS OF THIS NO CERTAIN EXPLENATION, JUST A THEORY!!! Hope i used the right words for this now and you understand my heiroglyphics...

Hope you make a differens with the estate pipes....

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 Post subject: Re: contrast staining
PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 11:08 am 
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Location: Spokane, Wa
:notworthy: Great post!


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