On sanding

[Leus]

In short, here is an advice:

When finished the rough sanding of your pipe, let it rest for a day or two.

Now, the simple rationale. Put some drooling countermeasures before looking at this picture:



After you stop drooling at that birdseye, take a deep look. The surface is not regular! The birdseye seems to add some texture. My guess is different density fibres absorbs moisture at different rates, and even when exposed to temperature changes, it expands or contracts at an uneven rate, too.

You can draw a paralel between a birdseye-full surface and a tightly-bound cluster of wooden sticks.

Now, this will happen to all birdseye surfaces; get used to it. However, if you allow your recently shaped pipe to rest for a while, your pipe will maintain its smooth glass-like appareance for a longer time. If you don't, local environmental factors can alter a recently-finished pipe in no time. In my opinion, it is okay for an estate pipe to have a bumpy appareance after a few years (like the Nordh in the picture.) However, I don't think the same about a recently finished pipe; let your briar rest!

Disclaimer: all of this half-assed theory is, of course, product of my own observation. Don't go around calling me names, please.

[bscofield]

There's been talk on here from other folks of staining with a water based stain first because it raises the grain/birdseyes and you can sand them down with ease and then stain with alcohol.

Do I have that right??

[Jeffery]

That's how I read it Ben...

I'm not sure if I'll try the process, but in theory it sounds like that's how it would work...

I do however, let my sanded stummels rest, sometimes for more than a day or 2... that's why I work on 3 pipes at a time... it's easy to stagger my time that way, and of course, being a part, part-timer, I have the luxury...

I pretty much agree with this half-ass theory...

[whitebar]

There's been talk on here from other folks of staining with a water based stain first because it raises the grain/birdseyes and you can sand them down with ease and then stain with alcohol.

Do I have that right??

I tried this method with the pipe I am currently working on and it seems to work well. I used a black water based stain first, then sanded, then applied an alcohol based stain. I like how it looks and there is a lot of contrast achieved through the use of this method.

I'm a believer and am glad to have learned the technique here. I had always just used alcohol based stains before and noticed that the colors seemed to run together more.

[jeff]

Stephen,
That sounds like a very promising technique. It might be worthy of a try. I've never worked with water based stains. Where exactly does one purchase these? I read somewhere recently, possibly on this site, that a pipemaker mixes alcohol based stains with water and has good results. Is this a possibility or a pipe-dream?

Jeff

[whitebar]

I read somewhere recently, possibly on this site, that a pipemaker mixes alcohol based stains with water and has good results.

Jeff,

I have Behlen brand dry powdered aniline stains and they have directions on the container for mixing them in either alcohol or water.

[Jeffery]

Good info Folks, thanks!

I always feel like a complete idiot on this forum (though, I'm NEVER made to feel like one)

I for one shall try the process and update!

[Nick]

WOW! That is georgouse birdseye. I was about to be so jealous about you getting that piece of briar.

Leus, your idea makes total sense. Though I've never intentionally left my briar sit between sandings, it almost always does. And lately, its been resting in the lovely high humidity weather of Ohio, so I expect a well rested briar. I wonder if there would be a process that could more consistently allow for this contraction to take place? Perhaps somthing similar to removing a dent in a pipe? Steaming the entire surface to bring out those....hmmm, on second thought that seemes like exactly the opposite of what one would want to do. And for that matter, the briar I have "resting" isn't getting much rest as far as this issue is concerened. The humidity would only expand the briar. Leading to an eventul contraction when it has dried out more.

I guess there's simply no alternative to the natuaral drying process. Save kiln drying.

[Leus]

I, for one, prefer my pipes to sell quickly so I can make more, and for that, a smooth pipe must be as smooth as possible. People do like shiny things

(Every pipe will get some texture given some time, thought...)

[ToddJohnson]

After you stop drooling at that birdseye, take a deep look. The surface is not regular! The birdseye seems to add some texture. My guess is different density fibres absorbs moisture at different rates, and even when exposed to temperature changes, it expands or contracts at an uneven rate, too.

Actually, Bo wet sands his pipes in the sink. That's probably where the texture comes from. Usually, once he has raised the grain throughout the sanding process, he'll dry sand with a higher grit to take it back down again. Sometimes, his bird's eye ends up having some topography to it though. I actually don't like it a whole lot, but then again, I'm certainly in no place to argue.

Best,

Todd

[whitebar]

Hello Todd and welcome to the group! I hope you decide to stick around for a while as I know there is much you can contribute to the goings on around here. I look forward to reading more of your posts.

[Jeffery]

I agree with you Todd, I'm not big on the "relief" in the grain...

I'll most likely try some wet sanding anyway.. you never know what you can come up with...

[Leus]

I, for one, prefer my pipes to sell quickly so I can make more, and for that, a smooth pipe must be as smooth as possible. People do like shiny things

Shiny isn't everything Leonardo. My pipe 31 is very shiny but it's too "out there" for most folks so it's just sitting there. Larry Roush's rusticated pipes are not all that shiny, but people grab them up as soon as they're available. There is an emotional reaction caused by the shape and look of a pipe, and it has to be just right for the pipe to sell quickly. My pipes number 27 amd 28 sold in a matter of hours, but pipes 26 and 31 which to my eye have a similar look didn't sell quickly. Your two white-stemmed pipes sold in a matter of hours, but your freehand didn't sell quickly. The degree of shininess isn't the crucial factor in my opinion.

Of course a smooth finish, and lots of shine is not guarantee of selling anything. It's just a basic rule of thumb: a smooth finished pipe should be as shiny as possible, because to the eyes of the customer it looks better. That's why you don't see many smooth pipes with a non-shiny surface (I don't know if I expressed it right.)

I think your latest offering will sell before the freehand does but not as quickly as the white-stemmed pipes sold.

Nobody has even asked for it. The freehand pipe is already sold, at a lower price than originally posted (I offered it at 150 bucks, then lowered it to 120.) It went to spain

There's some very subtle stuff going on in the perception of the potential buyer and I don't believe that price is the crucial consideration either, nor is it quality of construction. I believe that what it amounts to is whether the pipe strikes enough people as "beautiful", not only as beautiful but as "gotta have it" beautiful. The guys who really succeed in this business, in my opinion (like Mike Butera, Larry Roush, others) have a natural feel for what the average guy will consider beautiful. Unlike me, I consider a lot of things to have good visual balance and flow but I don't yet have the necessary connection to what the market likes.

Ah, flow and balance. Pesky, elusive things, aren't they?