Waxing a rusticated pipe

Sanding, rusticating, sandblasting, buffing, etc. All here.
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marks
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Waxing a rusticated pipe

Post by marks »

I just rusticated the pipe I am working on, and have decided to just wax the pipe, no stain.

On the last pipe I did this with, I melted the wax, and applied the melted wax to the pipe. After coating the entire pipe, I heated the pipe with a hair dryer, then dabbed the melted wax with a paper towel to remove the excess. I still got way too much wax into the pores of the pipe. As it has been smoked, wax has risen to the surface, and I have had to heat with a hair dryer to remove the excess since the pipe was made. If I ever want to start selling pipes, I will have to figure out a better method, or learn not to get too much wax on the pipe to begin with.

So, my question, is there a better method for applying wax to a rusticated pipe so I don't over wax? A few things I thought of, and thought I'd throw out for comments are

1) Buffing the pipe to get a lighter coating of wax on the high spots of the rustication, then heating with a hair dryer to distribute the wax into the nicks and crannies.

2) Buffing the pipe, then taking a nylon brush and brushing the excess wax off.

3) Melting the wax onto the pipe, then brushing off the excess.

Or, is there an even better method I have not thought of yet.....

Thanks!
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KurtHuhn
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Re: Waxing a rusticated pipe

Post by KurtHuhn »

marks wrote:Or, is there an even better method I have not thought of yet.....
I've found that the most efficient method is to follow in the steps of the respected makers, and use something other than wax.... ;)

But, if you have your heart set on wax, I've found that if you heat the stummel rub the wax onto the stummel, then wipe it with a shop rag, you don't get the buildup if wax in the crevaces that can be unsightly.
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Post by pipemaker »

I have obtained the best results by chucking a 1/4" to 1/2" diameter stiff
natural bristle brush in the lathe, applying wax first to the brush and then to the pipe.

Trim the bristles back so they are about 1/2" long, and run the lathe at 2000-2500 rpm. A little wax goes a long way.

By attacking the surface of the pipe from different angles, you can apply the wax evenly, without the usual build-up in the crevices.

Mike
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jeff
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Post by jeff »

Then again, you could follow Kurt's advice and approach the controversial, the unspeakable, but the very typable, shellac.:wink: Its about a volatile a subject as the speaking of "the name that shall not be mentioned...Voldemort! 8O

The lack of police sirens at this point should probably cue you in to the fact that the PIB (Pipemaker Investigation Bureau) has tired of this subject and decided to let it slide--sort of like how they let white collar crooks like Martha Stuart slide when they steal from the little guys.8O 8O ...uhh, but we're neither lying nor hurting anyone--honest. :lol: It actually improves the finish, for smooths and rusticated pieces, while maintaining the breathability of the briar.

Most high graders that I am aware of use that or other similarly applied substances with (obviously) fantastic results.

I've used shellac with outstanding results on several rusticated pieces. See some of the other threads for the types, sources, methods of application, and other opinions on the matter. Believe me, this subject has been discussed a great deal here. After you have read them, drop some other questions here if there are any unanswered ones left over.

I think that if you give it a shot, you will be very satisfied with the results. :D

Jeff
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hiway
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Post by hiway »

After applying the melted wax, heat the stummel and use a tooth brush to flick the excess wax off working on a portion at a time. You will have to frequently rub the wax build up off the tooth brush using the edge of your bench or your fingers - carefull, that wax is hot! You can easily remove too much wax this way but just re-heat and brush in from the surrounding area to re-cover the bare spot.

Once the stummel starts to cool look it over carefully, especially in the recesses. If it is clear but dull looking that's good. If it looks yellow there is too much wax and you need to re-heat and brush off again. In some deep or narrow spots you may need to remove some wax by scraping with a pick then re-heat.

Once it has cooled down a bit you can use the nylon brush on a Dremel to polish. I use a fairly slow speed about 2 or 3 as I've found that the bristles break off at higher speeds. You can also polish quite well with a soft bristle toothbrush but it takes longer.

YMMV but this method works great for me. Remember though, better too little wax than too much.

Good luck should you decide to try it.

Dave
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marks
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Post by marks »

I've done the other "controversial" method on another pipe with excellent results, but this one seems to just beg for wax (yes, the pipe is speaking to me).

Thanks for the replies. I'll eventuallly post pictures of the finished results, along with a couple of other pipes I've completed as soon as I get a digital camera, eventually...
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Post by achduliebe »

Hey Random,

Here is an interesting link I found about shellac:

http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/shellac.htm

I don't know if it helps with the question at hand, but it is a very interesting read. Well it was interesting to me...having not known that shellac was from an insect. Also, that it is used more commonly for food and pharmaceuticals, rather than wood working.
-Bryan

"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"

www.quinnpipes.com
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jeff
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Post by jeff »

random wrote:
jeff wrote:It actually improves the finish, for smooths and rusticated pieces, while maintaining the breathability of the briar.
I'm confused, I was sure that I'd heard somewhere (Todd I think it was) that shellac is a sealer and the breathability issue is moot. Could someone clear this up?
Random,

Yes, I agree with Todd on this. I think that the breathability issues is both stupid and overplayed. But, FWIW I have read that shellac does allow woods to "breathe" unlike other clear finishes liky Polyurethane and Laquer. I could be wrong, but at least it might give a base from which to argue w/ a collector who things that the wood does need to breathe.

Regards,
Jeff
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KurtHuhn
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Post by KurtHuhn »

I've read that Shellac will allow wood to breath also. Although, if you lay it on thick like paint, it won't. When I was experimenting with shellac, I found that a rusticated pipe with a thick, heavy coat of shellac displayed some very ugly behavior - like bubbling when it gets hot. This doesn't happen when you use Todd's method on smooths, or one (maybe two) light coats on rusticated pipes.

There is technique also after all, it seems.
Kurt Huhn
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

Ahhhhhh!!! It bubles if its on too thick. That must be what was happening to my seahorse!!
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Post by RocheleauPipes »

Hi -- jumping in here -- the word Shellac drew me (spent too many years in the coatings industry :)

Shellac is not a durable finish, but a very useful one as a barrier coating. Oddly enough for our conversation, shellac is widely used today as a smoke barrier coating. It is used in fire jobs where timber or walls have been burned. A couple coats of shellac and the smoke stain--and the odour--is sealed in (works for pet odours on floors as well). Shellac shines as an intercoat barrier and sealer, but not as a finish coat anymore. French polish is a shellac preparation. Most furniture was finished this way until varnish was perfected, then all the French Polishers (a trade at the time) lost there profession. I had the pleasure of knowing a french polisher when I lived in England. He could do magic on wood. With few deft strokes he had a glass like finish.

So I am thinking that shellac, if it is used in pipe making, should be confined to the role of a partial seal. I don't think I would want to use it myself, but some top makers do use a sealer of sorts before buffing and waxing. I seem to recall that Bo Norde or someone of his stature uses a sealer first. Likely their finishes hold the shine, or polish back up easier. As for the breathabliity of shellac, it all depends on the cut and how much you use. The common prepared shellac is maybe a 3 or 4 pound cut. A 3 pound cut is 3 pounds of resin (bug shit) desolved in one gallon of methyl Hydrate. To maintain breathability, I would further cut it with methyl Hydrate by 50% at least, then use just one good coat worked well into the grain, then buff and wax as normal. You could experiment with the cut to obtain the best benefit with the least downside. Since it's disolved in alcohol, I guess one would have to be cautious not to disturb the stain in application. In theory you should also be able to mix alcohol based aniline dye with the shellac solution, perhaps as the final stain/seal, then buff etc.

Just some evening musings,
John
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

Ohhhh! Neat idea of using the dyes with the shellac!
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RocheleauPipes
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Post by RocheleauPipes »

Hi NIck,

Yes, it could be fun to explore mixing a bit of already in solution dye with the shellac. You might even try some orange shellac. There is white, which is colorless more or less, and orange, which is less purified and has a cast to it. Orange shellac was commonly used for sealing knots in wood so that they don't bleed the resins through the finish; still is with those that know about it.

Have fun,
John
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Post by Jeffery »

John,

I just noticed that you have joined the board here!

Welcome, Welcome & Welcome!

I look forward to your posts!
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Post by RocheleauPipes »

Thanks for the welcome Jeff. I don't get here that often, but I enjoy it when I can. I just updated my site with some new pipes, so now it's back to the shop for me 8O

John
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