Sandblasting techniques

Sanding, rusticating, sandblasting, buffing, etc. All here.
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jeff
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Sandblasting techniques

Post by jeff »

Having never sandblasted anything before, I am hesitant to jump into it with a nice stummel, only to ruin it. I would like to hear how this is done from those of you who do sandblasted finishes. I'm interested to hear what kind of briar is selected, rigs are required, types of sandblasting agents, styles, processes, stains, and finishes. I think that those of us who have never worked with this before would find this enlightening and very helpful, not to mention using it as an opportunity to gain a greater appreciation for nicely sandblasted finishes.

Let me make one small caveat to this thread, please only post if do or have work[ed] with a sandblasting rig. It is generally unhelpful for people to make comments about their unrelated experience, like how they have worked with sandblasting rigs to refinish bridges or wrought iron doors. Or from those who heard somewhere from someone who had a friend who knew someone who explained to them how they thought that pipes should be sandblasted. :wink: So, let's limit the instructive responses to those who have significant experience sandblasting pipes. The rest of us can sit back, learn, and ask questions. :)

Thanks,

Jeff
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ToddJohnson
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Post by ToddJohnson »

random wrote:If you work one at a time and are patient how small a compressor/tank setup can you actually get away with?
Oh, about 9 hp. and 80 gallons :D

Todd
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Clemons
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blasting

Post by Clemons »

Hey guys, I'll tell you what I do, good bad or indifferent!
I have a Porter Cable 7hp 60 gal air compressor. I would probably opt for a larger compressor or more CFM's. Unfortunately my compressor is in Tucson and I'm in Cali so cant give you the current CFM's. More is better! My blasting cabinet is a small dental cabinet with its own dust collector. Couple of things.

Make sure the line from the blaster to the gun is as short as you can make it. I currently use a line about 4 ft long. The longer the line the more condensation in the line and blowing water and media is not good.

I use fine glass beads aprox. 220 grit
Around 80-90 psi
Take your time! and use duct tape to tape off shank and parts you do not want blasted.

I believe that you have to have good grain to have a good blast. But having said that I can blast two blocks of wood and both will come out different depending on how hard the wood is ect.

I may offer to blast pipes for a nominal fee so let me know if interested. If you live near Tucson let me know and we can hit the blaster! Takes me about 3 hours to blast a pipe.

Hope this helps!
Greg
Greg Clemons
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jeff
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Post by jeff »

Thanks Clemons. Trevor, Todd, Brian, anyone else? I'd like to hear a variety of methods and experiences to get a broader perspective of how this process is completed.

Jeff
BriarBrian
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Post by BriarBrian »

Yes i agree a large compresor is needed, i have a pump that produces about 17 CFM at 125 psi, thats alot, it is only a 5 hp though. i got it for 100.00 and put about 400.00 into it by rebuliding the whole compresor myself. this compressor used to run a whole tool and die shop though so i knew it would be able to handle the load of a blaster. its an old pump that is no longer made the way they used to make em years ago, but parts can still be had for them.
Blast cabinets i use a skat blast that is from tiptools.com its a top loader so it saved on space versus a side loader. The preasure greg talks about is a good start. i adjust the pressure according to the hardness of the briar, it is very hard to explain, but if the briar is soft , to get a sharp blast you have to dial down the presure and take more time to blast the pipe, the opposite is true for harder briar. you really cant give a certain preasure but its a good start at 80-90. but make sure the gun is rated for that type of preasure too, you dont want it to explode on you, or develop leaks either cause the gun cant handle the preasure.
I do a triple blast and use 3 different types of media and then i experiment with them 3 different mixtures too, so i really cant say what i use on my pipes as it chages according to the briar. i think thats kind of why others wont tell you what they use cause it isnt an exact science you have to experiment and keep experimenting till you find what works, and then after that still keep experimenting. atleast thats what i have found works for me.

to keep water away in the air line i ran black pipe throughout my shop, the black pipe helps with condesation and also run drains at every end of the line as the water will run down to the drain tube and not out the gun. I also use a water filter in the line to my blaster and then i also have a painters water filter that is after that just in case any small dops get by the filter. if youy get water in the blast media it wont come out as good cause the water will make the media clump together and you wont get a defined blast. the painters in line water filters are available at grainer.com.
Also it takes me longer then 3 hrs to blast a pipe but i think the results are worth it.
stdly
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Post by stdly »

Jeff,
Sorry a bit off subject maybe but I though this might be a good tip. I added a ballast tank to my small compressor to give it a bit more initial working time. You can buy one of these potable air tanks (I used an old propane tank) and add it in line. Some have drain cocks so water will usually accumulate here and can be drained if you have a short lead hose as suggested earlier.
Regards,
Steve J

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