stem finishing

[buster]

I can't seem to get fine scratches out of this damn stem. I sanded very carefully and meticulously up to 400, tripoli, and white diamond, but I still have fine scratches. I'm a little bummed out because I really took my time. Any suggestions? Please. Thanks again everyone.

[Sasquatch]

There's two possibilties in my experience. One (and the most likely) is that you damaged the stem more than you think with the early grits or files or whatever. These leave fairly deep cuts, and you sand through to 400 and it all looks fine, then you do a polish and these funny little cuts show up. Gotta go back to about 220 and start again.

The other possibility is that your tripoli wheel is contaminated with something or is a poor wheel, and is leaving little cuts behind.

Do you have a "white diamond" finishing wheel?

[buster]

Yes, I have two stitched muslsin wheels. One for white and one for tripoli. I remember reading not to go to heavy with the filing because this has happened on my last one. This time I thought I went very easy with the file, but maybe not. I read another post where you said something about the quality of the buffing wheel. Where do you purchase yours or what should I be looking for when buying? I really don't think its a contaminated wheel because I buff opposite of my sanding lines and those fine scratches are immediately apparent.

[KurtHuhn]

http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merc ... ccessories

I like the 8" wheels.

I also sand stems higher than 400, which is just barely adequate in my opinion. I also don't use aluminum oxide, which is not an ideal abrasive for pipe makers. Try wet/dry paper, which is almost always silicon carbide and much better for pipe makers.

[Sasquatch]

The 8" wheels that PME sells are quite good, though not a "hard wheel". But compared to the 6" wheels I had from PIMO they were night and day.

[Sasquatch]

Not to gainsay Kurt, but in my experience, sanding properly, that is, really thoroughly at the lower grits, 120 and 220, makes it so that you do a fairly quick sanding at 320 and 400, and if you've done that WELL, you can go straight to trip and the thing will shine perfect. It's those big "old" scratches from 80 and 100 grits if you are going that low that show up from time to time. Theoretically, if you sanded well enough at 320 I bet I could go to the buffing station.

[buster]

Silicone carbide for stummels also? I've been using those woodturner packs of four, the one inch strips, which are 150, 220, 320, 400. Have you guy's used those, any opinions? I bought some wetdry paper sheets from a local tooling store, but they don't seem to cut the wood like those strips, they just don't dig in for some reason. Ohh, I sand in only one direction on the stems, lengthwise. You can see the scratches going in that direction after buffing. Should I alternate directions?

[taharris]

I try to sand in multiple directions to keep scratches down.
Then, the final sanding with each grit should be with the grain and done lightly.

Also, I really like the Norton sandpaper. I have had very good luck with it.
I don't know if it is Silicon Carbide or Aluminum Oxide.

Todd

[KurtHuhn]

Not to gainsay Kurt, but in my experience, sanding properly, that is, really thoroughly at the lower grits, 120 and 220, makes it so that you do a fairly quick sanding at 320 and 400, and if you've done that WELL, you can go straight to trip and the thing will shine perfect. It's those big "old" scratches from 80 and 100 grits if you are going that low that show up from time to time. Theoretically, if you sanded well enough at 320 I bet I could go to the buffing station.

This also is absolutely true. But since I have hams for hands, and sausages for fingers, I like to take a couple minutes for added insurance.

Silicone carbide for stummels also? I've been using those woodturner packs of four, the one inch strips, which are 150, 220, 320, 400. Have you guy's used those, any opinions? I bought some wetdry paper sheets from a local tooling store, but they don't seem to cut the wood like those strips, they just don't dig in for some reason. Ohh, I sand in only one direction on the stems, lengthwise. You can see the scratches going in that direction after buffing. Should I alternate directions?

You've found why I, personally, advocate silicon carbide paper. The grain structure is completely different, making it less aggressive, and providing a much better finish at lower grits than aluminum oxide. Since aluminum oxide is triangular in structure it gouges the surface that you're sanding, compared to silicon carbide which scrapes due to the cubic structure.

I still prefer aluminum oxide for roughing in (because of the above) and first pass for shape tweaks, but after that it's all silicon carbide.

[PremalChheda]

Silicone carbide for stummels also? I've been using those woodturner packs of four, the one inch strips, which are 150, 220, 320, 400. Have you guy's used those, any opinions? I bought some wetdry paper sheets from a local tooling store, but they don't seem to cut the wood like those strips, they just don't dig in for some reason. Ohh, I sand in only one direction on the stems, lengthwise. You can see the scratches going in that direction after buffing. Should I alternate directions?

Yes, I would definitely sand in crossing directions. That may fix the problem you were having with the scratches still showing up after buffing. There may have been deep scratches that were not taken out. You can also use an angled (70-90 degree) sharp edge to scrape deep scratches or file marks before 220 or 320 grit.

Buster, if you really want a good selection of sandpaper at rock bottom prices check out:
http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/

I think I got the basic silicon carbide in most grits from 120 to 1000

I have a few of the higher ones, but very rarely use them. The grits I usually stick with are, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000

[PremalChheda]

The 8" wheels that PME sells are quite good, though not a "hard wheel". But compared to the 6" wheels I had from PIMO they were night and day.

I have tried multiple wheels from quite a few sources and found J.H. Lowes/Tim West's to be the best. He has three different ones - All linen for roughing, linen/flannel for fine finish and applying wax - All Flannel for final polishing. I have not tried the PME ones yet. Anyone have a comparison of the PME to Tim West Wheels?

[buster]

Thanks everyone for always being so helpful

[buster]

I was looking on online industrial supply and the priced between the Norton and the generic are substantial. Is it worth buying a more recognized brand like 3m or Norton? Do you reall notice a difference in quality?

[Sasquatch]

For paper you mean?

I buy Sia - can't stand Norton.

[taharris]

I would recommend the high quality sand paper over the cheap stuff.

Worth every penny IMHO.

Todd