Wood lathe drill bit wobble

[Rbraniganpipes]

I have a new Jet 1015-vs lathe that have all assembled and securely bolted and level. I tried to drill my first pipe, and got a lot of drill bit wobble. I have checked live centers in the tail stock and headstock, and everything matches up. I took apart the Oneway chuck I was using and reassembled it thinking maybe I didn't seat the adapter screws evenly. That didn't change anything.

My tail stock is a MT2, so I have a MT2 drill chuck. I got a JT33 1/2 drill chuck with a MT2-JT33 arbor, they came together. They are made by Wood River.

When I called Jet, they said something must be wrong with the drill chuck, and ended up wanting to sell me a drill chick with the same components, 1/2 chuck with MT2 to JT33 Arbor.

I have tried drilling with the tail stock locked, and unlocked, and by winding the handle or just sliding the tail stock.

Anyone have any ideas or advice?

[RiverWader]

If your head and tail stocks are lined up and the jacobs chuck in in line with all that, I'd think it should work OK. I'd check for something simple like a bent drill bit.

-Pat

[sandahlpipe]

Sometimes the workpiece being off center and not facing before drilling can lead to drilling off center. Steps I would take to try:

1. Rough in the shank before drilling (at least to make sure it's round)
2. Make sure you have the stummel locked in tight.
3. Make sure your drill bits are true and sharp.
4. Start your hole with a hole starter
5. Make sure your tailstock is aligned perfectly (they sometimes shift slightly one way or another before they're locked down.
6. Drill with the tailstock locked in. At least to start your drilling.
7. Make sure your lock on the tailstock quill isn't too loose or tight.
8. Take small passes and clear chips.
9. Bolt your table to the wall and make sure nothing moves if you grab the table hard and shake it.

[oklahoma red]

I'll start by saying that no matter what the brand name, Chi-Com made wood lathes are far from precision. Now that the politics are out of the way I'll ask a few questions.
1. Does your wobble show up in both chamber drilling and mortise/airway drilling?
2. Have you faced the surfaces into which you will be drilling?
3. What rpm?
4. What style of bit for the chamber, modified spade or S & D style twist drill? Did you grind them or were they bought pre-ground?
5. Are you sure the block is really secure in the chuck? Be the chuck a One-Way or Vic-Marc or whatever they are not "precision" especially with tower jaws on them.
Getting the hole started properly is half the battle. As stated earlier, use a proper size center drill to get going
Invest in a small dial indicator and a magnetic base for it that has some sort of articulated arm. Chuck up a drill bit blank (1/2 inch is a good size) and use the dial indicator to check for wobble in the rod (turn chuck by hand and watch the dial). Test about an inch from the face of the jaws. Logically the further out from the chuck face the more wobble you will potentially see.
The dial indicator can also be used to detect movement in the tailstock quill as it is being locked down. Again, put the rod in the drill chuck and test for movement. Also run the quill in and out with the indicator touching your test bar. With the right accessory on the dial indicator you can install it in your chuck and let the measuring tip rest on the bar stock in the tailstock. Slowly rotate the chuck and observe the dial. This will tell you how well the center-lines of the chuck and tailstock line up. This is crucial. If the center-lines are out of whack then you'll never get rid of the wobble without shimming something.
All this being said, you can certainly make quality pipes on midi wood lathes once you understand their individual traits/faults and learn how to compensate accordingly.

[Rbraniganpipes]

Sometimes the workpiece being off center and not facing before drilling can lead to drilling off center. Steps I would take to try:

1. Rough in the shank before drilling (at least to make sure it's round)
2. Make sure you have the stummel locked in tight.
3. Make sure your drill bits are true and sharp.
4. Start your hole with a hole starter
5. Make sure your tailstock is aligned perfectly (they sometimes shift slightly one way or another before they're locked down.
6. Drill with the tailstock locked in. At least to start your drilling.
7. Make sure your lock on the tailstock quill isn't too loose or tight.
8. Take small passes and clear chips.
9. Bolt your table to the wall and make sure nothing moves if you grab the table hard and shake it.

I hadn't been roughing the shank before drilling, so I will have to try that. I have tried several drill bits in terms of true and sharp, and no matter old or new, they wobble. I don't have a hole starter. Where can I find that? Could you post a link for reference? I have bolted the lathe to the table, and the table has been securely bolted to the wall so that it will not move.

I'll start by saying that no matter what the brand name, Chi-Com made wood lathes are far from precision. Now that the politics are out of the way I'll ask a few questions.
1. Does your wobble show up in both chamber drilling and mortise/airway drilling?
2. Have you faced the surfaces into which you will be drilling?
3. What rpm?
4. What style of bit for the chamber, modified spade or S & D style twist drill? Did you grind them or were they bought pre-ground?
5. Are you sure the block is really secure in the chuck? Be the chuck a One-Way or Vic-Marc or whatever they are not "precision" especially with tower jaws on them.
Getting the hole started properly is half the battle. As stated earlier, use a proper size center drill to get going
Invest in a small dial indicator and a magnetic base for it that has some sort of articulated arm. Chuck up a drill bit blank (1/2 inch is a good size) and use the dial indicator to check for wobble in the rod (turn chuck by hand and watch the dial). Test about an inch from the face of the jaws. Logically the further out from the chuck face the more wobble you will potentially see.
The dial indicator can also be used to detect movement in the tailstock quill as it is being locked down. Again, put the rod in the drill chuck and test for movement. Also run the quill in and out with the indicator touching your test bar. With the right accessory on the dial indicator you can install it in your chuck and let the measuring tip rest on the bar stock in the tailstock. Slowly rotate the chuck and observe the dial. This will tell you how well the center-lines of the chuck and tailstock line up. This is crucial. If the center-lines are out of whack then you'll never get rid of the wobble without shimming something.
All this being said, you can certainly make quality pipes on midi wood lathes once you understand their individual traits/faults and learn how to compensate accordingly.

I haven't tried facing the surface of what i am drilling, so ill have to try that.
The wobble does show up in both chamber and mortise drilling, but more noticeably with smaller bits such as the 5/32 for the airway.
I am typically drilling at a slow RPM, between 350 and 500, if not slower.
I have modified spade bits that I bought pre done, but I know for certain i need to sharpen them. I notice wobble more with the smaller bits though. I use the spiral bits for drilling the mortise and the airway.
The wood is fully secure in the jaws. I have it cranked down as tight as possible.

Thank you for the suggestions on how to accurately check if the center alignment is true. Could you possibly suggest a link for the dial indicator and magnetic base? I don't really have any idea what i'd be looking for.

[Rbraniganpipes]

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... uctID=1593

Is this what I need?

[Rbraniganpipes]

I feel like there is some play in the drill chuck arbor where it sits in the tailstock. I have a hard time getting the drill chuck to seat tightly, and sometimes when drilling, the bit will catch in the wood, and the entire chuck will spin inside the tailstock. I have to really push the chuck and arbor into the tailstock to get it to seat correctly. I am assuming that is not normal.

[sandahlpipe]

For hole starters (center drills) I just use these cheap ones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3TEF4I/re ... EwbHNST5PJ

Also, speed does matter. Depending on the block size, I get more wobble at slower speeds.

When it comes to drill bits, I use Viking brand bits (also branded as Norseman) and they work great. These, along with a surface that's properly faced and a slow feed to start the hole make a world of difference.

I haven't messed around with a dial indicator, but it's probably not a bad idea.

The thing I've noticed with my setup is that the vibrations from turning a shank round can knock the block slightly off center. This is why I've gone to turning before drilling.

Also, if your chuck is spinning, you haven't jammed it into the tail stock firmly enough. Speed up the lathe and feed slowly and you should be in good shape.

[oklahoma red]

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... uctID=1593

Is this what I need?

It will work but may be a bit more difficult to get into the position you want.
I am partial to this type:http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... uctID=1249
This base has decent reach which again makes set-up easier: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... uctID=2880
And this holder comes in handy on occasions:http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... &category=
You might also check Enco or Shars Tool which carry similar products.

[oklahoma red]

I feel like there is some play in the drill chuck arbor where it sits in the tailstock. I have a hard time getting the drill chuck to seat tightly, and sometimes when drilling, the bit will catch in the wood, and the entire chuck will spin inside the tailstock. I have to really push the chuck and arbor into the tailstock to get it to seat correctly. I am assuming that is not normal.

This is one time on a lathe where you do not want any oil. Both mating surfaces should be clean and free of oil. Push in with a twisting motion. Even then it will sometimes catch and spin. I wear a good leather glove on my left hand and grip the chuck when feeding. Slow down the feed rate and you'll lessen the chance of a catch.

[scotties22]

The FIRST thing you need to do is square the face. Use a tool or a forstner bit...really doesn't matter. Then mark the center in some way before you drill (I have a hole punch that I have ground flat...I'll post a pic...that I use to make a small hole. It is accurate and gives my drill something to line up with when I start drilling.) When you line up your drill if it is not hitting the mark then you know something is amiss. My tailstock is off by 1/16"....I use a cardboard shim to keep things on center.

FWIW I have the Woodriver chuck and have experienced most of the problems you have. I also have a chuck from Penn State that I have the same problems with. I always keep a hand on the drill chuck if I feel it start to give I back off and make sure it is in the tailstock securely before I start again.

[W.Pastuch]

Does is still wobble if you face and start drill the material? It makes all the difference.
It sounds like the problem may be caused by the tailstock. It is really important that the morse taper shank sits tight in the tailstock socket (I have a rubber mallet head and just give the lightest tap to sit the chuck), and also that the whole tailstock is alligned (both height and across the ways) to the headstock. If it's not you will get wobble, excessive friction and generally bad drilling performance.
You said the headstock and tailstock axes line up?
It is a good idea to check with a dial indicator. Another good test is to take two new centers, one for tailstock and one for headstock, then you hold a piece of shim between the centers and look at which way it twists, that will show you possible missalignement.
If your lathe is new just taking the tailstock apart and cleaning it and checking for obvious manufacturing defects can be helpful.

[Rbraniganpipes]

So I tried facing the wood and then drilling, and I still have a wobble. I looked more closely at the headstock, and the headstock handwheel has a bad wobble. Does anyone else have this issue? Looking more closely at it, and looking directly down the inside of the spindle, I see that it wobbles and is not spinning straight. I am going to attempt to return it to the store for an exchange since I have only had it a few weeks. If I can't, hopefully Jet will exchange it for me. The wobble is definitely coming from the headstock. I wish I could post a video, because it is evident in the video. Thanks for all of the suggestions you guys have offered. I really appreciate the kindness and help extended to guys like me who have so much to learn.

[oklahoma red]

So I tried facing the wood and then drilling, and I still have a wobble. I looked more closely at the headstock, and the headstock handwheel has a bad wobble. Does anyone else have this issue? Looking more closely at it, and looking directly down the inside of the spindle, I see that it wobbles and is not spinning straight. I am going to attempt to return it to the store for an exchange since I have only had it a few weeks. If I can't, hopefully Jet will exchange it for me. The wobble is definitely coming from the headstock. I wish I could post a video, because it is evident in the video. Thanks for all of the suggestions you guys have offered. I really appreciate the kindness and help extended to guys like me who have so much to learn.

Sounds like the lead screw that runs the tailstock spindle in and out has a bend in it. That is something that Jet should stand behind. Good news is that you have apparently found the problem and you can now glue your hair back on. Merry Christmas!

[pipedreamer]

Sometimes it's not the nut behind the wheel, but the nut!!!LOL!!! We have too much faith in our equipment.

[dogcatcher]

What type of drill bits are you using? Are starting your drilling process by drilling with a center bit? Then drilling with your bit? Or just drilling with your drill bit? Does the drill bit shank have any burrs on it, rough spots so that it will not seat true in the drill chuck?

First I would chuck up the drill chuck in the headstock with the drill bit to see if it looks like it is running true. If you have a bad drill chuck or a bent bit this "should" will show it.