Handsaw Recommendations

tigercasual · Post by **tigercasual** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 2:36 am

Hello All,

Sorry if I'm asking a question that has been asked before, but I could not seem to find a previous post using the search tool.

My apartment is a little too small for a band saw- and my current saw is not getting the job done: so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good handsaw/type and/or brand (or maybe even a rotary tool attachment) for rough cutting briar.

Cheers,
Danny

mredmond · Post by **mredmond** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 5:02 am

Danny,

I'm not sure this is your best option, but I was using a Japanese Dozuki (pull saw) before getting a bandsaw. I still use the Dozuki from time to time. It's a decent space and money saving option, in my opinion.

- Micah

Dixie_piper · Post by **Dixie_piper** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 5:07 am

I've heard a lot of people recommend a coping saw. PIMO says repeatedly in their book that a normal wood saw (old school saw) does poorly with briar.
But, from what I've read, a coping saw is most recommended by most. A forewarning is that most also recommend staying away from carving knives because of how they splt/splinter the wood.
I would think though, (which is not my strong point) that a good quality hacksaw SHOULD suffice if nothing else is available, can't call any brand names to mind at the moment.

caskwith · Post by **caskwith** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 5:22 am

I used a good quality japanese pull saw for a long time before i bought a bandsaw. I still use the handsaw for some fine cuts however as you have much more control and safety when cutting close to your fingers.

Alan L · Post by **Alan L** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:52 pm

I'll third the dozuki. I have one from Woodcraft, the Ice Bear brand 300mm length. It's the only woodsaw I have that easily cuts briar. A high-tension hacksaw with alternate-set teeth on a 10-14tpi blade does pretty well also, as does my jewelers' saw with a #3 blade.

I still much prefer my bandsaw, though.

johnpowellpiv · Post by **johnpowellpiv** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:43 am

So with the dozuki, would I have to pick the blade out of the notch I've started cutting and realign it with each stroke? What I'm asking is: if I do the"push" stroke will the teeth get dull on the saw? (Since it's a "pull" saw)
Dozuki owners, any comment?
Thanks,
-John

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

caskwith · Post by **caskwith** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:47 am

No but just lessen the pressure on the forward stroke, basically the opposite of how you would use most handsaws.

johnpowellpiv · Post by **johnpowellpiv** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:49 am

Thanks caskwith.
-John

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alden · Post by **Alden** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:22 pm

Definitely a Japanese saw IMO. Guyokucho seem to be priced well and they perform great. I have a bandsaw handy and still grab the Japanese saw for a lot of stuff. Cuts ebonite clean straight and quick, works great on delrin too.
This would probably be a good choice for one saw to do it all
http://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-770-3600 ... =razor+saw
The key with a Japanese saw is starting your cuts straight. It will track perfectly once started, so as long as you are good on the initial pulls it will be a great cut.
You want to hold the saw one handed and try to stand so you pull the saw straight back towards your belly button. This allows you to visually see the orientation of the blade and gives you a reference to keep the pulling motion in a straight line. Not much pressure (or any) is necessary as the teeth function more like a plane than like traditional teeth. Each individual tooth scrapes off a tiny layer of material as you pull.

andrew · Post by **andrew** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 6:42 pm

You can get a small benchtop bandsaw that takes up very little space.

andrew

pipemakersforum.com