In the market - Metal Lathe

[PremalChheda]

Thanks for all of the great replies! I did do a little searching on craigslist and found this for $2900 OBO. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/wan/4233338231.html

I'll definitely watch the videos and read all that was recommended. I definitely want to buy once, I don't want to end up having to buy bigger down the road.

That is not a good deal. I would stay away from that lathe.

[M.Jones]

Thanks!

[LatakiaLover]

I really do not want to get into it George, but Keilwerth is not taking a shot at you or trying to make you look like the bad guy. It is just time to move on with the subject in the OP. Take it to PM's if you need more discussion on it.

More discussion is the last thing I want or "need". Clarity, though, is always necessary. If it was achieved, I'm good.

[PremalChheda]

I really do not want to get into it George, but Keilwerth is not taking a shot at you or trying to make you look like the bad guy. It is just time to move on with the subject in the OP. Take it to PM's if you need more discussion on it.

More discussion is the last thing I want or "need". Clarity, though, is always necessary. If it was achieved, I'm good.

Your pointing out for him to do a search was needed. The way you said it was not needed. That is why you got the response from BigCasino.

Also part of the response from BigCasino was not needed.

[LatakiaLover]

Your pointing out for him to do a search was needed. The way you said it was not needed.

To avoid any misunderstanding about tone was why I used the winky emoticon. It was a, "Yo, dude, that isn't the way it's done on forums" remark, nothing more.

That is why you got the response from BigCasino.

Which is mystifying, given that the lack-of-tone-in-writing thing routinely bites the entire human race in the ass, and has since writing was invented. I thought how it worked among people who are known to each other is good intentions are assumed.

[PremalChheda]

For Clarity's sake. I had no problem with your original response to the OP. BC did, and made a childish remark. You responded to defend yourself, he responded back with a childish response, and then you responded back with a childish response. It just doesn't end well for anyone. Both of you go back and read what you wrote and say you are sorry in a PM or on the board or whatever. That should be the end of it.

[LatakiaLover]

For Clarity's sake. I had no problem with your original response to the OP. BC did, and made a childish remark. You responded to defend yourself, he responded back with a childish response, and then you responded back with a childish response. It just doesn't end well for anyone. Both of you go back and read what you wrote and say you are sorry in a PM or on the board or whatever. That should be the end of it.

Tired of writing, me. Plus, writing itself is most of the problem in cases like this.

I've posted my number on PMF before, and now I'll post it again. Anyone so inclined is encouraged to call me at anytime for any reason:

816 605 1341

[wisemanpipes]

I always think that older American, or if you can find it, British lathes, are the highest quality and are the most durable for the price.

I have a clausing metal lathe (late 40's) that's 12x36 and its a tank, plus there are lots of parts floating about.

I would try and find brands like logan, southbend, atlas, clausing, myford.

the lathe you posted is way overpriced like Premal said.

if your set on a new one, jet (like everyone said) or precision Matthews lathes if you can afford it.
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1030.html

hope this helps.

[W.Pastuch]

IAWWP

Wojtek! Your pipes are awesome, where did you come from!?

Thanks Premal Been here some time and I come from southern Poland to be exact

[caskwith]

There are a great many metal lathe discussions here with varying opinions. Many will say you need a larger lathe, while not strictly true (I use a rather small lathe), if you have the space get a big one, it's better for a whole heap of reasons.
Second hand is the best way to go if possible, for pipemaking you don't need super accuracy so as long as everything works and the bed isn't twisted and warped out of all recognition then you should be fine and you will be able to grab one of the lathes the engineers aren't interested in.

Few features to look for, good range of speeds is required, at least between 100-1000rpm for best results (I use between 200-600 for most work). Quick change gearbox is only needed if you intend to do a lot of threading so ignore that. A clutch is nice thing to have but not essential. Belt driven rather than a gear-head is more forgiving and quieter. Quick change toolpost is essential in my book but this is something easily bought afterwards with your tool budget. Chuck wise you really only need a good 3-jaw, lots of other chucks are nice but not essential for pipemaking as you will want a custom chuck anyway.

Hope some of that helps. Be sure to do a good search on this forum, yes it will be long and tedious but you will learn a lot and will be in a much better place to ask more specific questions later on.

[pipedreamer]

Read Todd Johnsons' remarks on lathe purchase.Generally, pipe carvers are generous, and nurture their young, if they are smart.A friendly group.They want you to do well in their hearts.Read all the posts, thats why they are there, a collection of many that will save time and money and frustration.Good Luck!

[M.Jones]

A lot of people say to go bigger, bigger, and bigger. I want to understand some of the reasons that may not be obvious to someone new such as myself. If you guys have the time and don't mind commenting, what are some of your reasons for larger lathes?

[W.Pastuch]

First of all stability. A bigger lathe will be heavier and will not vibrate too much once you mount your pipemaking chuck, also when turning off center, which can happen with oddly shaped blocks- that will make a smaller lathe vibrate like crazy. Also bigger lathes are usually better made than smaller ones, even from the same manufacturers- that's what I heard.

Also you will find that once you buy a lathe it will open a world of possible applications and being able to turn some larger items, as well as steel to make small tools and accessories is extremenly useful.

These are just some reasons that I thought of from the top of my head, but someone more competent in lathes (hmmm, Chris, you've got like eleven of them right? ) might explain that more precisely.

[caskwith]

covered rather well in the post above, you will just have to trust us that bigger is better.
Also you get a lot more bang for your buck with a bigger lathe, many of the tiny bench top lathes will be priced at close to $1000, double that money and you get a lathe that is 10x better at least.

[LatakiaLover]

Todd J., Tyler, and Scott Thile swear by this lathe as the best bang for the buck currently available.

Here's Scott's rundown on getting his and setting it up:

http://www.sethilepipes.com/k2-news/8-n ... -new-lathe

[Jon Yoo Suk]

Have a look on youtube some good vids by some top turners, search for tubalcain, he has forgotten more than most will ever know.
South bend in good condition will take some bettering.
As its only turning pipes( low level of accuracy) a bit of wear in the gibs or a bit of backlash niether here nor there,
Same for headstock tail stock alignment.

[W.Pastuch]

As its only turning pipes( low level of accuracy) a bit of wear in the gibs or a bit of backlash niether here nor there,
Same for headstock tail stock alignment.

Of course when you're just roughing out a bowl that's gonna be mostly refined by hand that doesn't really matter, but that's not always the case.
You don't need your lathe to keep within 0.001 tolerances, but you need it actually quite precise. If you're making a pipe with a 6mm tenon and 1,5mm shank walls (and it's not uncommon) you need your lathe in a decent condition 'cause any major chatter or runout will ruin that kind of design. Same goes for fitting extensions, caps, etc., if you want all that to fit perfectly with seemles joints you can't be working on a beat up piece of metal.
I find the precision of a well kept lathe helps a lot, there's enough you can screw up later so it's better to start with a nicely engineered base (drilled stummel).

[M.Jones]

Todd J., Tyler, and Scott Thile swear by this lathe as the best bang for the buck currently available.

Here's Scott's rundown on getting his and setting it up:

http://www.sethilepipes.com/k2-news/8-n ... -new-lathe

Thank you for the great info and the link, I can budget for this.

I understand that I will need to spend another $1k in accessories. I just want to buy once and make a good honest effort in pipe making. I have made pipes on the wood lathe already, and I think I have some potential to make some really nice pipes.

[wisemanpipes]

Todd J., Tyler, and Scott Thile swear by this lathe as the best bang for the buck currently available.

Here's Scott's rundown on getting his and setting it up:

http://www.sethilepipes.com/k2-news/8-n ... -new-lathe

Thank you for the great info and the link, I can budget for this.

I understand that I will need to spend another $1k in accessories. I just want to buy once and make a good honest effort in pipe making. I have made pipes on the wood lathe already, and I think I have some potential to make some really nice pipes.

your going to budget for approx 5000 worth of lathe equipment?! unless you have the skill or the clientele to guarantee that you will be able to pay that off, I think that lathe (PM1236) might be overkill for your needs.

[M.Jones]

Well, there's the rub. I can buy something else and have to buy again later, or I can buy something that is "overkill" now. Which way ends up spending more $ in the long run?