A better Motor Arbor

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PremalChheda
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A better Motor Arbor

Post by PremalChheda »

I am really tired of these dam arbors being just a hair off. I am now looking into getting them made perfectly on center. Please let me know if you will be interested in one or more. I will update this thread with pricing and expected completion once I find someone to make them.

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Premal Chheda 2
smokingyeti 1

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baweaverpipes
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by baweaverpipes »

With a metal lathe and taps, these are easily made on a metal lathe. It's just aluminum stock.
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andrew
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by andrew »

A precision arbor is an amazing thing. Just make sure to add an inch or two to the length of the beall one.
I love my new arbor.

andrew
wdteipen
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by wdteipen »

I bought one of Kurt Huhn's a several years ago and it's accurate so I'm good.
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PremalChheda
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by PremalChheda »

baweaverpipes wrote:With a metal lathe and taps, these are easily made on a metal lathe. It's just aluminum stock.
I am going to try, but I think my headstock is a little off, and I may not be able to get a true cut.
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BobR
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by BobR »

wdteipen wrote:I bought one of Kurt Huhn's a several years ago and it's accurate so I'm good.

FYI, Kurt's threads are 5/16"-24. The Beall threads are 3/8"-16.
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by wdteipen »

BobR wrote:
wdteipen wrote:I bought one of Kurt Huhn's a several years ago and it's accurate so I'm good.

FYI, Kurt's threads are 5/16"-24. The Beall threads are 3/8"-16.
I know. The backing pads I use are 5/16" and the most readily available 5/8" coarse thread adapters are reduced to 5/16" also. It seems 3/8" stuff is a bit more difficult to find unless you pay for the top dollar pipemaking specialty tools available.
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oklahoma red
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by oklahoma red »

PremalChheda wrote:I am really tired of these dam arbors being just a hair off. I am now looking into getting them made perfectly on center. Please let me know if you will be interested in one or more. I will update this thread with pricing and expected completion once I find someone to make them.

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Premal Chheda 2
smokingyeti 1

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Premal,
How much overhang are you dealing with? The smallest amount of "out of round" or "off center" gets highly magnified as the arbor gets longer. Also what is the run-out on the motor shaft itself? Some of the Chi-com motors aren't worth the powder to blow them up due to crappy bearings and just plain old shoddy workmanship.
Chas.
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PremalChheda
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by PremalChheda »

oklahoma red wrote:
PremalChheda wrote:I am really tired of these dam arbors being just a hair off. I am now looking into getting them made perfectly on center. Please let me know if you will be interested in one or more. I will update this thread with pricing and expected completion once I find someone to make them.

Committed:
Premal Chheda 2
smokingyeti 1

Maybe:
Premal,
How much overhang are you dealing with? The smallest amount of "out of round" or "off center" gets highly magnified as the arbor gets longer. Also what is the run-out on the motor shaft itself? Some of the Chi-com motors aren't worth the powder to blow them up due to crappy bearings and just plain old shoddy workmanship.
Chas.
I have an iron horse 3 phase 1/2 hp motor with vfd and it is running true. I have tried 2 beal arbors and a couple of JH lowe ones. At high speeds there is not really a problem. It is when I am down at 800 to 1100 that I can really tell. It seems like the beal arbors are shifted over a little and the JH lowe arbors are at an angle. They are fine for buffing or for high speed sanding, but I set up the motor for finish sanding at low speeds.
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andrew
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by andrew »

wdteipen wrote:
BobR wrote:
wdteipen wrote:I bought one of Kurt Huhn's a several years ago and it's accurate so I'm good.

FYI, Kurt's threads are 5/16"-24. The Beall threads are 3/8"-16.
I know. The backing pads I use are 5/16" and the most readily available 5/8" coarse thread adapters are reduced to 5/16" also. It seems 3/8" stuff is a bit more difficult to find unless you pay for the top dollar pipemaking specialty tools available.
I just made my own. It was sort've fun. By the third wheel it was getting a little boring.
All said, each wheel cost me like $7.... and they're awesome.

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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by LatakiaLover »

The threads on standard shop buffers & arbors are usually 2A or 2B, which is a bit coarse for wobble-free performance out of the box. (Pipemaking precision requires Class 3 threads, and the different classes are not interchangeable.)

I solved the problem in my shop by putting a precision bronze bushing between the end of the arbor and the step-down on the motor shaft. Tightening the arbor while short of bottoming then "pulls" it straight & centered.
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
caskwith
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by caskwith »

PremalChheda wrote:
baweaverpipes wrote:With a metal lathe and taps, these are easily made on a metal lathe. It's just aluminum stock.
I am going to try, but I think my headstock is a little off, and I may not be able to get a true cut.

Even if your headstock is off you can still get a true cut if you do things in the correct order and don't just turn the arbour in the chuck.

As an example. Drill/bore a piece of aluminium to correct size for the motor shaft. Remove from Chuck and add grub screws. Put a piece of scrap in the chuck and turn it to the exact same size as your motor shaft, DO NOT remove from chuck. Even if your headstock is out of whack a little the action of turning this piece will ensure perfect concentricity.
Now carefully file a flat on your stand-in shaft and attach your arbour, when you spin it up it will be spinning with no runout in relation to the internal hole. Take a truing up cut on the outside so it looks nice and then drill (preferably bore) and tap whatever you need on the end for your discs. This is the most accurate way to do such a job, even more so than using collets.
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KurtHuhn
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by KurtHuhn »

Even better, and what I do, is to drill the hole for the motor shaft (be it 1/2" or 5/8", or whatever) then DON'T TOUCH THE ARBOR and drill the hole that you will tap for the backup pad threads from the rear. If you leave the aluminum rod stock in the lathe and don't touch or move it, your two holes are guaranteed to be concentric. If your lathe is up to snuff, it's impossible to get them out of concentricity.

The threads I use are 5/16-24. That's the standard thread for dual action (DA) backup pads in use on DA sanders all over the US, and are available in all sorts of configurations. That means you can use sandpaper with vacuum holes, no holes, backup pads that are super soft, or rock hard. The only down side that I have found with my setup is that the edge of the sanding disc can't be rolled over the edge permanently. However, if you use Abralon sanding discs, that's not a real problem, and you can adjust your technique to match.
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PremalChheda
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by PremalChheda »

Thanks everyone. I will make one attempt at it with my crappy Jet. If it doesn't work, I may have a machinist that will do it.
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caskwith
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by caskwith »

Kurts method also works great as long as your drilling technique is good and you don't have wandering bits. If your tailstock is out also then you are unlikely to be able to drill accurate enough holes. Personally when concentricity is an issue I prefer to drill undersize and bore out the last part.
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by BobR »

Any progress on this?
Bob
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PremalChheda
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by PremalChheda »

I am still awaiting some tool and material to try it out.
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Re: A better Motor Arbor

Post by KurtHuhn »

caskwith wrote:Kurts method also works great as long as your drilling technique is good and you don't have wandering bits. If your tailstock is out also then you are unlikely to be able to drill accurate enough holes. Personally when concentricity is an issue I prefer to drill undersize and bore out the last part.

Yes - clear your chips often, and use cutting fluid. I am blessed in that my 50+ year old South Bend is quite accurate (even with its quirks), but if your tailstock is out, you should be able to shim it back in.
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