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Well this is my first attempt with a lathe and pretty much 2nd time making a pipe. 1st one was a pre drilled kit that was done primarily with a dremel. Oh it smokes great but looks like a wonky stump with a branch growing out of it, I'll spare myself embarrassment of showing it .
Fast forward a year and unable too shake the urge to craft something I could be proud of, so here I am.

I have been reading the forum in most all of my spare time lately, finally broke down and purchased the Central Machine 10x18 green machine (hey, if it's good enough for Walt Cannoy and so far am pretty happy with it. Got a beginner 4 jaw chuck, drill chuck, a small set of cutting tools from Penn st and will be building a dual slack sander when my wheels arrive with an extra 3 stage motor I salvaged from an rv air cond. from work.

Any way, I have the next four days off and decided it was time to start on the plateaux block I got from Judds pens and pipes. I decided to try out a chubby Dublin. I used a 3/4" cove router bit and it did a great job and then ran a 5/32 draw hole at 90* for a straight pipe. I have basically carved the bowl and stopped because I have a mortise bit coming from Pimo. I also got a stick of polly natural onyx rod to make the stem. I have been toying with it and made a ugly stem for a cob and I have a feeling it might take all two feet to get a passable stem. Oh well, it is definitely fun.

Looks nice so far! You probably don't need anything special for the mortise. I use 9/32 usually, but 5/16 is just fine. You can face the shank well enough with your hand tools.

Making a stem by hand is no easy task, especially when you are working on a wood lathe. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

What Jeremiah said.

On the stem use patience and look often at a drawing or finished one.Look up stem making in the archives and good luck!!!

Well, I will have to file this in the "learning experience" calumny while taking off exess material on the disk sander I forgot that while looking at the draft hole (1/8) at the end of th stem that the rest of the stem and shank were 5/32 and went right through.
Shame, it was a really nice grained block too.

Not to be discouraged I decided to keep going for awhile, might as well and learn some more.
For creating a tenon I ended up using the ground down wrench tool. That worked out wonderfully in all honesty. I'm happy it happened; anyone who has immediate success usually does not go very far and becomes lax.
I think there may be enough length to the shank to try and make it a Nosewarmer, we'll see!

The pics

YEaaargh. Yeah we've all done that. Sucks.

In the words of Chuck Yeager "Get back up there and try it again."

Yep. I've done that very thing. Mistakes are great teachers, but they can be frustrating.

I say put this one aside until you're ready to practice a shank extension.

Just say to yourself "that's not me, I do better work" Then shoot something and take a break.If people are watching, throw the whole thing at the wall. Looks artsy!!!

Pics of my second attempt. foing for a lovat this time around. also a pic of my belt sander build. I am using a motor out of an rv a/c and a bunch of scrap hardwood for the frame, bought some 2"x3" wheels from Mcmaster mounted on rod. setting it up now for two belts at a time right now and will make adjustments to it in the future.

The belt sander looks like it will work nicely.

The bowl looks pretty good on the pipe. The shank looks like it's got some notches on it. Keep us posted on how it develops!

A diagonal brace at the back of your belt sander will markedly improve the stiffness of your frame and reduce the chances of throwing your belt.
DocAitch

I plan to box it in so that I can try to keep the dust down as much as possible.

That will work even better.
DA