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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 12:14 am 
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I was getting close to being done shaping when I noticed the shank had cracked. Can it be fixed? Any idea what caused it? Should I just toss it and start on another?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 12:19 am 
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Here is a side shot.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 12:21 am 
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Wider view.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:02 am 
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Location: Chongqing, China
First, I'd like to welcome you to the "cracked shank" club! One of the many frustrating clubs that most of us are apart of.

My guess it that you sanded your mortise too thin while shaping the pipe. If you could tell us the thickness of the mortise
Or post a picture of the shank face then we could have a better idea. If the mortise wall's thickness isnt the problem then I can only make other speculations: hidden pit that created a weak spot, if water was used on the pipe during sanding it may have expanded the wood and cracked, maybe the pipe fell down, etc.

I've had a few pipes when I first started that cracked on the mortise. I either sawed odd the exsisting mortise to redrill a new one, or cut the shank off to attempt a shank extension.

Mistakes like these are a good platform to learn. I've learned quite a bit through fixing mistakes. Lesson vary from "dont do that again" to getting some experience with and understanding shank extensions and stem inlays. Mistakes are part of the process.

Kiel

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:16 am 
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Looks like that was the problem. I rubbed it off with a wet rag once and spit on it to see what the grain was doing.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:35 am 
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One fairly logical explanation that Kamkiel didn't include in his list was a slightly oversized tenon. How tight is the fit?
I've cracked a few mortises by fitting them with a tenon. Then again you'd have noticed because of the cracking sound :-D

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:52 am 
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The fit is real tight. I didn't hear it crack. I bought it as a kit from Mark Tinsky.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 4:32 am 
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Location: Chongqing, China
Massis wrote:
One fairly logical explanation that Kamkiel didn't include in his list was a slightly oversized tenon. How tight is the fit?
I've cracked a few mortises by fitting them with a tenon. Then again you'd have noticed because of the cracking sound :-D


Oh yeah, and in oversized tenon :mrgreen:

If you find that the tenon mortise connection is uncomfortably tight, you can try some rolled up sandpaper in the mortise to try and get a better fit. My first couple of pipes used 8mm delrin for the tenons. I drilled my mortises with a 8mm drill bit naturally, but found the the connection was super tight. Before I bought an 8.1mm reamer to get a nice fit, I would just use rolled up sandpaper in the mortise until I wasn't so tight. Now, I rarely use delrin and turn my own tenons.

I'm sure that other members have other (better) suggestions, but that's what I would do.

Kiel

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:30 am 
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As far as fixing a cracked shank, you don't have a ton of room left there. You could try a repair band or a shank extension. Shank extension would be something I'd do with a pin gage on a lathe, so I'm not sure how feasible that will be with your setup right now.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:57 am 
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I've got a couple that are holding with CA glue for now, but I would not be surprised for them to let go at any time. They are probably going to wind up with non smoking relatives.
I think a slightly over size tenon plus thin mortise wall is the most likely explanation, but several of mine split through faults in the briar. Similar to Kamkiel, I've used some sand paper on a small dowel to open up the mortise.
I am not set up to band the shank myself, but would consider sending this pipe (because it looks promising) out for banding. A search of this forum might turn up a repair shop that can perform the repair. Glue it with the thin cyano acrylate glue, finish it, then send it out. It doesn't sound like you are set up for an extension yet.
On your next effort, turning the stem periodically 180 degrees before you get to your final shape will tell you where your mortise wall is asymmetric.
DocAitch

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 7:04 pm 
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Dont fix it, just mail it to the new member named easom. Ill give you my, um, i mean his address if you need it. hehe


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 7:06 pm 
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You could cut off the damaged part and attach another piece of wood or horn or something. I like that style


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