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This is a test run for the PITH, only concerned with critique on my shaping. This isn't gonna win any beauty contests, it's got a couple pits and my jacobs chuck started spinning on the MT leaving some pretty bad chatter in the chamber.

There is a dip at the top and bottom of the bowl/shank junction. They should meet with a bit of a radius (no crease) but you don't want the line of the shank to dip.

The shank is also too thin. it needs to be a bit thicker. I usually shoot for about 7/8" thick for the shank on an Author.

The lowest point on the pipe needs to be behind (on the stem side) of the center line of the chamber. Right now it looks like yours is maybe a touch in front of that line.

Try to fix those things and then post pics again. And if you can post them where they show up in the post that would be great.

Thanks Scottie, I've redone the pictures, now that I've figured out how to. I thought the shank was going to be a bit small, I do have larger stem material coming. Thank you again for your other pointers too. I was marking my lower centerpoint at center of the bowl, I will adjust this in my next try. I put an arrow where I think you are suggesting I move the low point to, is this correct? Transitions seem to be my biggest foe, my radius is either too large or too small.

I tried to draw a picture.
DocAitch

Thanks Doc, more like this? And I've come to the conclusion, briar blocks are just like peaches, every one of them has a pit.

That looks better.

I am unable to see your last image.
DocAitch

Got my stem material in finally, so here's where i'm at.

Just some advice on turning. When you're turning a bent or partially bent shank, the cylindrical part of the shank actually needs to bend to look right. So don't turn the shank straight, but rather at a slight taper. Then you'll need to come back later and shape the shank by hand.

Jeremiah, is it also true for the savinelli 320? It appears to be a straight line from bottom of bowl to stem.

That one does look like it was done as a straight shank. If you look at this example from Scottie, you'll notice how the bottom line has more of a swoop to it. I think it makes it more elegant.

Mr. Sandcastle is correct. The shank at the bowl MUST BE thicker than it is at the stem. When I make a bent pipe I turn about the top 1/4" of the shank and the rest is shaped by hand.

Turning your shank all on the lathe is something else that isn't helping with your over-definition of the bowl/shank transition on top. You have to leave yourself room to work. Even if it takes a bit longer.

Thanks guy's, I am trying to emulate the sav 320, so at this juncture I am correct?

Scottie was a winner at the 2016 Kansas City Carver Contest for the Author shape. I'd sooner copy her design than a factory shape. The Savinelli factory doesn't care nearly as much about all the little details that make for graceful curves and continuous lines. It's the lines, symmetry, and attention to details that distinguishes artisans from factories.

If you want to copy a Savinelli, make the shank straight and awkward like they do. If you want to make a graceful author, listen to Scottie.

scotties22 wrote:Mr. Sandcastle is correct. The shank at the bowl MUST BE thicker than it is at the stem. When I make a bent pipe I turn about the top 1/4" of the shank and the rest is shaped by hand.

Turning your shank all on the lathe is something else that isn't helping with your over-definition of the bowl/shank transition on top. You have to leave yourself room to work. Even if it takes a bit longer.

Thanks Scottie, your Author is stunning and I hope I can get something half as nice by PITH end. I do have lots more to learn for sure, thanks for the shank tips. I have started doing something similar with the bowl as well, I've started to just turn it down enough to give me a reference point to shape to.