I've only made 5 pipes, so I'm still in the rank beginner stage - but...
The main problem that I've had with all 5 pipes has been the area where the shank meets the bowl - especially on the top portion.
It seems that no matter how hard I try, when cutting the rough shape with my coping saw I always go too deep! It seems that the majority of my time spent sanding is confined to this area (trying to get rid of those small remaining cuts).
I use a sanding disk, drum, or files for shaping, followed by sanding. Am I the only one with this problem? Anyone got any tips to make this area better for me?
thanks!
john
Bowl/shank junction tips?
Just took a look at your work. On the pipes real nice. Like your form.
On JOSCELIN. Great piece of work. My con-grat's to your lady and you.
On JOSCELIN. Great piece of work. My con-grat's to your lady and you.
Pooka wrote:I cut really short at that angle and then finish it off with the ol' dremel. I can't stand the junction part either. It's so finicky. I really like the dremel and drum-sander attachements. They really make my work easier on those tight spots.
R.
Thanks for the tip. I guess I just need to increase that angle a LOT, then sand down to make it correct.
I've been using my Dremel in that area with both the half and quarter inch sanding drums, but by the time I get rid of my "cut" marks, it is indented too much!
Perhaps I should pay more attention...
I've been using my Dremel in that area with both the half and quarter inch sanding drums, but by the time I get rid of my "cut" marks, it is indented too much!
Perhaps I should pay more attention...
I've had the same problem. Cut less with the saw and more with the Dremel and sand paper. Kinda sucks doesn't it? Try some of the Dremel cutting cylinders as shown on the bottom of this page.
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTG ... s-cylinder
I use the 197 bit I think but some of the smaller ones would be better. You can also use a round file and for a small radius junction I always finish up with a flat file. If you can find a fine, straigh flat file with a blind (smooth) edge you will be happy with the resutls. If you have a belt sander you can quiclkly make blind edges. That way you are not cutting with the file edge, only the flat. Alternate filing the bowl and the stem then finish with sandpaper.
Happy filing!
Dave
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTG ... s-cylinder
I use the 197 bit I think but some of the smaller ones would be better. You can also use a round file and for a small radius junction I always finish up with a flat file. If you can find a fine, straigh flat file with a blind (smooth) edge you will be happy with the resutls. If you have a belt sander you can quiclkly make blind edges. That way you are not cutting with the file edge, only the flat. Alternate filing the bowl and the stem then finish with sandpaper.
Happy filing!
Dave
- KurtHuhn
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There's no real secret to the shank/stem junction. You pretty much just need to sand, sand, sand.
I do trim my blocks down quite a bit, since I bore on a lathe these days it's in my best interest to cut down on the amount of weight swinging around. However, I make sure that I stay at least 1/8" away from that junction point. From there on out It's all about the belt grinder.
I do trim my blocks down quite a bit, since I bore on a lathe these days it's in my best interest to cut down on the amount of weight swinging around. However, I make sure that I stay at least 1/8" away from that junction point. From there on out It's all about the belt grinder.