Squaring shank for flush stem fit

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Sat Apr 03, 2004 10:30 pm

Hey all,
After fitting my first stem this weekend with my new Pimo Tenon Turner (Thanks all for the tips, it works well) I realized that I have no way of accurately squaring the shank so that it fits flush with the stem. I know that Pimo has a tool to deal with this as well, but honestly, I don't have another $30 at the moment (my wife would kill me) to drop on such a product. So, what are your suggestions besides sanding (which is what I ended up doing, with success)? Sanding is a bear, and unpredictable. So, what are some tips fellas?

Jeff

kbosi · Post by **kbosi** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 10:21 am

You will need a fostner bit, say 1 inch. Before you drill the mortise hole, use the fostner bit first to square it up.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 12:19 pm

I'll let you in on a minor secret - the Pimo shank end-square too is....
A Fuller 3/4" counterbore on a 5/16" drill bit

The Pimo price is slightly high, considering the price of Fuller bits. You can get a range in sizes from:
http://www.bitsnbores.com
However, they don't come with a drill bit, which Pimo provides, and you'll need in order to use the counterbore.

I like the forstner bit idea too. You can probably do that for less money than a fuller bit.

Post by **Tyler** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 6:44 pm

You can also square the shank with some sandpaper and a flat surface. Simply place the sandpaper on a flat surface (I use my kitchen table), and hold the shank face against the paper and pull it toward you. You will need to apply more pressure on the area of the shank that it touching the stem first. Continue this process until you see no light between the shank and stem. If the fit is way off, use a more coarse grit (320-ish) and if it is not off by much use a finer grit. After you have the fit just right, do a couple of gentle pulls with successively finer grits to keep the face of the shank pretty. Be careful to be very uniform with this so you do not lose the fit you worked to get.

I am not a big fan of the Pimo tool for sqauring the shank because it limits the size of the shank to just under 3/4". Like Kurt says, a forstner is better. I have a 2". Plus, it is easier to get the mortise drilling started properly on a already flattened and square surface. With the Pimo set up, you are often starting the mortise drill into a rough or angled surface.

Tyler

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Mon Apr 05, 2004 9:53 am

I use a 1 1/8 " foresterbit as the first step in drilling the mortise and air hole. After that I usually have to massage the fit a little with one of those foam padded nail files. But that is not done until I have already finished the pipe.

marks · Post by **marks** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 1:36 am

Still another way

If you are really off, like a couple of my early pipes have been, you can get some adhesive backed sandpaper, put it between two pieces of wood, drill a hole in it the same diameter as your tenon, cut off the excess on the outside to match your stem/shank, stick the sandpaper on the end of the stem, insert the stem into the pipe and rotate back and forth approx an eighth to a quarter turn each direction until the shank is flush with the stem. (How's that for a run on sentence? I should be writing tax code.

) Then finish off carefully with finer grits as Tyler or John described. If you are close to begin with, and just have a sliver of light, just do what Tyler or John suggested.

If you happen to get farther off sanding on a flat surface (yes this can happen) the method above will get you back in the ballpark again. You also have to have a pretty good fit with your tenon using the method I described, or you can create a dome on the end of the shank from the tenon flexing in the mortise. If you have a slightly loose tenon, this may not be the best method. Also, your paper has to be stuck flat against the stem, no folds, or other imperfections.

Whatever you do, work slowly and gently with finer grades of paper, like Tyler said, as a little sanding can go a looooooong way. Check your progress frequently.

Hope this helps.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:35 am

Also, if you just can't get the fit right, be sure you have a countersink in the shank. The Pimo tool leaves a fillet edge on the bottom of the tenon where it meets the stem, and the stem will never fully insert into the shank without a small countersink - at least in my experience.

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:37 am

Kurt makes an excellent point!

Don't forget to chamfer the mortise on the end of the shank. Minimizing the amount of wood that contacts the stem minimizes the amount of irregularity that can cause an uneven fit.

Tyler