Choosing Briar

For discussion of the drilling and shaping of the stummel.
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jeff
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Choosing Briar

Post by jeff »

This question is directed specifically toward Todd and Tyler, although, it is by no means limited to them.

As I was sketching out some new designs on some briar blocks that I have, I began to wonder what advantages higher end pipemakers find in using larger blocks of briar. Is the planned size of a finished pipe at all dependent upon the piece of briar that you begin with? Aside from the obvious (i.e. a large stummel could never come from a block smaller than it), do you find that you will take a larger block and carve a stummel of a substantially smaller size? Or do you plan the stummel around the size of the block? Basically, my question here is do you have a more economical point of view when planning to use blocks or is the desired outcome and grain content of the block the more important part of the choice?

I ask this because I really hate to waste good briar. I want to become the best pipemaker that I am capable of becoming though, and don't want my tightwad nature to prevent me from making the correct choices when it comes to this. I'm not sure if my question makes any sense, so feel free to ask for clarification.

Thanks,

Jeff
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ToddJohnson
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Post by ToddJohnson »

Larger blocks of briar are great because they give you a lot of leverage. When I look at a block and see a shape in it, there are infinite variations I can do on that shape. It can have a very long slightly curved shank, a short fat shank that curves up at a sharp angle, etc. Smaller blocks are great for making bamboo pieces and often have very tight grain. I have no problem "wasting" briar if you mean using only 70% of a block's length, width, height, etc. Occasionally I'll make a massive pipe, but not very often. I work with large blocks a lot though. When you switch from tracing shapes *onto* blocks to culling shapes *from* them, it will make a lot more sense. Hope that helps.

Best,

Todd
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jeff
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Post by jeff »

Thanks Todd, that does help. I guess that my main concern was working on a bamboo piece with a large block with good grain. I want to use that block, but I don't want to throw away 50% or more, nor do I want to increase the planned size of the pipe just because the block is large. I guess there is no problem patterning it out and then cutting the block in half for use later if the design permits.

Jeff
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Post by KurtHuhn »

I don't know about Todd and Tyler, but I find that having a larger block allows me more freedom to match a pipe shape to grain (and the other way around). Recently I've been re-cutting briar blocks so that the grain matches a pipe shape I have in mind. This is most helpful on ebauchon that has grain that is almost, but quite, straight grain. On plateaux, I feel greater freedom to create with a larger block. There are more possibilities for shapes in larger blocks. At least in my opinion.
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Post by ToddJohnson »

jeff wrote:I guess there is no problem patterning it out and then cutting the block in half for use later if the design permits.

Jeff
FWIW, this is sort of a "no no" amongst certain pipe people. It's certainly done, and I've done it on several occasions, but it's sometimes frowned upon. The mindset is something like "You mean that pipe was made from a scrap!" I'm not really saying don't do it, just don't publicize it. Now two matching pipes from the same block is often thought to be something cool and unique. Go figure.

Todd
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jeff
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Post by jeff »

FWIW, this is sort of a "no no" amongst certain pipe people. It's certainly done, and I've done it on several occasions, but it's sometimes frowned upon. The mindset is something like "You mean that pipe was made from a scrap!"
I assure you, that I would neither publicize this practice if indeed I do use it, nor would I consider it working with a scrap. Now, if the buyer considers that working with a scrap it could be a problem, but hopefully remedied by the omission of this knowledge from any publication. Of course, if the "scrap" is removed because it is ugly it will either be used for a less expensive rusticated piece, discarded completely, or used as a scrap for other purposes.

Jeff
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Post by KurtHuhn »

I was telling someone the other day that I use my scraps for making food taste good. Briar, when used like mesquite or hickory, makes fisha nd chicken taste *really* good.

How's that for wandering off-topic. ;)
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Post by ToddJohnson »

KurtHuhn wrote:I was telling someone the other day that I use my scraps for making food taste good. Briar, when used like mesquite or hickory, makes fisha nd chicken taste *really* good.

How's that for wandering off-topic. ;)
That's a great use for briar chips. I've done this a few times and have really enjoyed the flavor that it imparts. What's funny is that Tim West sells bags of "briar chips" for grilling and smoking at pipe shows. I got a big kick out of it the first time I saw it. :D

Todd
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Post by Tyler »

I don't know how, but I missed this thread.

I'd say the same thing that others have already about big blocks. The freedom to move around in the block to get the shape right is the nice thing about them. I also tend to prefer long shanked pipes, so, when feasible, I will make the shank as long as I can for a given shape. Bamboo would be the obvious exception to this.

Speaking of bamboo, I like others, have found bamboo to be a great way to be efficient with briar. I too will occassionally make two pipes from the same block, especially if I am intending to rusticate the piece and don't really care about the orientation of the grain.

Tyler
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Post by ToddJohnson »

Tyler wrote:especially if I am intending to rusticate the piece and don't really care about the orientation of the grain.
Intending to rusticate a piece . . . ??????? 8O 8O
I thought pipemakers only intended to rusticate pieces in some strange alternate world called Pimo-tar :D

Todd--who will grudgingly admit to having intended to rusticate a few pieces on several occasions.
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Post by Tyler »

:)

It happens on rare occassion that I intend to rusticate. Typically because I am making a requested pipe where rustication was chosen for budgetary reasons. I usually have a small pile of briar that I have set aside as likely candidates for such commissions.

Tyler (who still buys mostly $12 blocks) 8)
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jeff
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Post by jeff »

Although I like rusticated pieces, I have never, nor would ever intend to rusticate from the start. The only thing that convinces me to do this is the presence of a pit (or many :evil: ) or crappy grain. Though, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on this, Todd and Tyler esp.: Would you or do you buy cheaper blocks with the intention of rustication, or would you only rusticate a pipe that the briar restricts from being smooth, in other words, is rustication a fall-back plan of sorts? I think I know pretty much where you both stand, but I am interested to hear it articulated for my own good as well as the others in this group.

Jeff
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Post by ToddJohnson »

Yes, for me rustication is somewhat of a "last resort." I do have standing orders for rusticated pieces, but I find them the most difficult to fill. There are others . . . well one other, namely Larry Roush, who seem to rusticate (and now blast) almost everything. It's not a function of his briar. I know where that comes from and it's absolutely excellent. Many of Larry's shapes would probably fall flat as smooths, but seem to be *extremely* popular as blasts and rusticated pieces. It's just part of his unique style I think.

As far as buying cheaper blocks to create rusticated pipes, no, no, and no. When you make a rusticated pipe, it should receive the same care, engineering, attention to detail, and quality material as a $1K smooth. If rusticated pieces function as something like a line of "seconds" for you, you're short-changing your customers and ultimately yourself. Consistency in engineering, flavor, bit thickness, etc. should be aimed at. If you cut corners for rusticated pipes then the guy that buys one of those pipes is never going to trust you on a more expensive piece even if you *do* hold such pieces to a higher standard of consturction.

While we're on the subject of rustication, let me offer one piece of advice that I think is very important for anyone wanting to make pipes professionally. If you're going to rusticate a pipe, rusticate the whole thing. There is nothing that will strike collectors as being more amateurish than partial or "spot" rustication on a pipe. Of course, I'm not talking about a smooth top or bottom (on a Poker say), but rather about random patches of rustication while the rest of the pipe is smooth. I know it's hard to cover up the beautiful grain on the left side just because the right side is smattered with pits, but you'll be better served by distinguishing sharply between smooth and rusticated pipes. That is not to say that some people don't like the sort of backwoods rustic look, but it's a decidedly smaller contingent of collectors who will go in for something like that FWIW. There are noted exceptions to this like, for instance Trever's Halloween pipes, but as a geneal rule . . .

Best,

Todd
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Post by Nick »

I gotta agree with you Todd. I love rusticated pipes. Although I usually look at one with the sneaking suspision that it was rusticated because of a flaw in the wood. But partial rustication, at least in most cases, don't look quite right.
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Post by KurtHuhn »

These are a couple that I had in mind when I mentioned Kent:
http://kentpipes.com/uniDB3/uniDBfiles/ ... D=154&IX=2
http://kentpipes.com/uniDB3/uniDBfiles/ ... D=150&IX=2

There are others, but I can't seem to find images of them right now.

I have been known to start off on a pipe with the sole intent of rusticating it, and usually it hasn't been a problem. Until recently, that is. With the arrival of some good briar, I have found it difficult to rusticate a few blocks - and maybe that's where Todd is coming from. I mean, I like rusticated pipes (a lot, in fact) but when you've got this block with outstanding grain structure and no pits or fissures, well, it's kina hard to justify hiding that beauty....

On the other hand, I also enjoy the activity of rustication. It's kind of fun. I just wish I had a decent compressor so that I could try my hand at sandblasting.
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Post by ToddJohnson »

random wrote:
ToddJohnson wrote:While we're on the subject of rustication, let me offer one piece of advice that I think is very important for anyone wanting to make pipes professionally. If you're going to rusticate a pipe, rusticate the whole thing. There is nothing that will strike collectors as being more amateurish than partial or "spot" rustication on a pipe. Of course, I'm not talking about a smooth top or bottom (on a Poker say), but rather about random patches of rustication while the rest of the pipe is smooth. I know it's hard to cover up the beautiful grain on the left side just because the right side is smattered with pits, but you'll be better served by distinguishing sharply between smooth and rusticated pipes. That is not to say that some people don't like the sort of backwoods rustic look, but it's a decidedly smaller contingent of collectors who will go in for something like that FWIW. There are noted exceptions to this like, for instance Trever's Halloween pipes, but as a geneal rule . . .
I get confused when you talk about "partial" or "spot" rustication. I'm never sure whether you mean anything that isn't all smooth or all rusticated, or just little patches here and there to cover pits.
I think I made it clear in my post that I'm talking about the latter. If it looks like termites got ahold of it, that's what I'm talking about.
I've been doing quite a few partially rusticated pipes lately, and they're the most popular pipes that I've offered; but they're not just patches here and there, the rustication / smooth areas are intended to add to the overall look and feel of the pipe.
Good. It sounds like you've got the idea then.
Someone mentioned Kent as having done some nice partially rusticated pipes but I don't recall who/where and haven't seen them for myself.
I think we can safely put Kent in the "noted exceptions" category. There are clear and purposeful lines that separate an entirely rusticated panel from an entirely smooth panel on Kent's pipes.
Maybe I have lame taste but I find smooth pipes, unless they have very unusual lines, to be very boring. Of course the difference between a smooth with okay lines and a smooth with perfect lines is huge.
Yes, I've always found your tastes very interesting, harkening all the way back to the balsa wood pipe, corncob pipes with the Ultem stem conversion kits, the "modified" Aldo Velani, the stem that you held with your teeth and your lips, etc. You've had some very original ideas and designs in the past 3 years. To say that we have "different" tastes is probably somewhat of an understatement.

I remember back when I didn't have a sandblasting setup and I only made smooths and rusticated pieces. I always said that this was because I just didn't like a sandblasted finish. I found them boring. Someone then commented that I seemed to own a lot of sandblasted pipes in my personal collection, at which point I knew the gig was up. I went out and bought a sandblasting setup so I could stop making lame excuses for why I didn't sandblast. Truth be told, I love sandblasts.

Todd
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