Technique for Squaring blocks?

[Cory]

My air holes keep ending up crooked and I am blaming my lack of right angles. What method do you fellers use for squaring up blocks?

Thanks.

[Massis]

I don't... I've tried squaring them, measuring everything and then drilling the holes, but they always misaligned.

So now I just take my reasonably square block (Jaume Hom's ebauchons), chuck them in my scrolling vice and align it by eye in my drillpress. Haven't missed one since...

[Vermont Freehand]

I am no highly experienced pipe maker, but from an ametuer, I usually sand each side before I draw on the block, so when I sand, I bring things to square if needed (though the Algerian blocks I am using and selling are already sanded and squared). Not sure what you are using to drill holes, but I do not have a lathe, I use a version of a horizontal borer that spins a bit and holds a block like a drill press. My clamping vise has marks that I line up with the intersection of where I want the end of the draft hole to align with the bottom of the bowl. Even if the block is off angle, the bit stops where the marks are and line up every time (okay, not every time, but 99% of the time). You see this method when people are using a lathe, they usually have pins in the jaws where they line everything up to. If you have a drill press, this should work (given you have a clamping vise that can be adjusted in a few directions, but stays at the same setting throughout all the drills).

hope this helps.....

[wdteipen]

I don't square my blocks and get perfect or near perfect alignment every time. Here's a trick I used when drilling with a drill press: 1) align the block in a milling vise mounted to the drill press table and clamp. I to get it lined up just right I would chuck a long 1/16" bit in the drill press with the milling vise moved to the side just far enough that the bit could drop beside the block. I'd then line the airway line drawn on the block with the drill bit then tighten the vise. Then I'd crank the milling vise to the center of the block and drill my airway to the measured depth drawn on the block. 2) After that I'd face the shank and drill the mortise, realigning using the same method if the mortise wasn't on the same plane as the airway. 3) Next I would mark the center of the tobacco chamber the same distance from one side of the block as the airway. 4) I would then insert the airway drill bit into the airway and make minor adjustments to the tobacco chamber using a laser level held in my hands. It's not perfect every time but will get you within a mm.

Now that I am drilling on a lathe, I had a custom chuck made that allows me to cant the block as necessary to center the grain. If the grain is pretty centered already then I would just use one side of the block as my squared reference and adjust the set screws on the other jaw as necessary. I have center set screws that clamp on the point where the airway and tobacco chamber meet so all I have to do is rotate the block after drilling the airway and it's perfect every time.

[Sasquatch]

I recut all my blocks on the table saw. I start out with a few trimming passes just to expose the grain, then cut angles as needed to get the grain oriented how I want.

Even with that, if you aren't careful, it's easy to have a bit wander in the briar, so I finish all my airways by hand drill, and just visually line up the bottom of the chamber, and usually drill underneath it, and then finally drill the chamber down onto the airway for perfect placement.

[Cory]

I don't square my blocks and get perfect or near perfect alignment every time. Here's a trick I used when drilling with a drill press: 1) align the block in a milling vise mounted to the drill press table and clamp. I to get it lined up just right I would chuck a long 1/16" bit in the drill press with the milling vise moved to the side just far enough that the bit could drop beside the block. I'd then line the airway line drawn on the block with the drill bit then tighten the vise. Then I'd crank the milling vise to the center of the block and drill my airway to the measured depth drawn on the block. 2) After that I'd face the shank and drill the mortise, realigning using the same method if the mortise wasn't on the same plane as the airway. 3) Next I would mark the center of the tobacco chamber the same distance from one side of the block as the airway. 4) I would then insert the airway drill bit into the airway and make minor adjustments to the tobacco chamber using a laser level held in my hands. It's not perfect every time but will get you within a mm.

Now that I am drilling on a lathe, I had a custom chuck made that allows me to cant the block as necessary to center the grain. If the grain is pretty centered already then I would just use one side of the block as my squared reference and adjust the set screws on the other jaw as necessary. I have center set screws that clamp on the point where the airway and tobacco chamber meet so all I have to do is rotate the block after drilling the airway and it's perfect every time.

That is what I have been doing. Figured I might have a flawed logic, but apparently not if it works for you. I think my tobacco chamber bit may be wandering, rather than the air hole being crooked.

[Ocelot55]

That is what I have been doing. Figured I might have a flawed logic, but apparently not if it works for you. I think my tobacco chamber bit may be wandering, rather than the air hole being crooked.

I've had the same problem of my chamber bit wandering. Drilling a pilot hole seemed to help me.

[wdteipen]

That is what I have been doing. Figured I might have a flawed logic, but apparently not if it works for you. I think my tobacco chamber bit may be wandering, rather than the air hole being crooked.

I've had the same problem of my chamber bit wandering. Drilling a pilot hole seemed to help me.

If you're drilling with modified spade bits, try shortening the shank of the bit to a couple inches or so. When you get the opportunity, I recommend switching to modified silver and demming bits or spoon bits. They are much less likely to drift.

[Mark Beattie]

Cory,

Thought I would chime in on this one, since I've just now got my drilling under control. wdteipen has the right idea with shortening the length of your chamber bits. You'll notice the difference in stability right away, wether you're drilling in a press or on a lathe. For what it's worth, this is setup that I've adapted for squaring my blocks and marking them.

I use this for squaring my blocks. A 90 degree angle is used to set the vertical and horizontal axis on it.

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/SA ... AFTEX.html

I use this saddle square to check the 'squareness' of the block as I go:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 0298,48041

Finally, I use this to carry my lines from one end of the block, to the other. It works very well. After I've used this to create the lines, I then go over them with a mechanical pencil to make them more visible.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... at=1,42936

After I got all these tools 'dialed in', my drilling was bang on, almost all of the time. It's a good feeling and you'll get there too.

Regards,

Mark

[wmolaw]

As I have noted several times, I am a complete newbie, to woodworking and pipe making. I wonder if I should have a rote disclaimer in that regard?

But after watching Kurt's video re: drilling on a lathe, I have hit perfectly every time without the need of squaring at all. It's most likely dumb luck, I guess. But it does seem to work. That and keeping the bits short so no drift. (Thanks all.)

(See disclaimer above) It seems to me the main reason for "squaring" a block would be to be able to accurately gauge the grain in the block so as to determine desired shape.

[Kenny]

If you're using a reground spade bit, I wouldn't bother drilling a pilot, it only makes the bit chatter (at least in my case). Once I stopped using a pilot hole, I get next to nothing for chatter. But, I do things a bit different than those using a drill press.

I hold my block in my lathe chuck (basic PSI chuck using either pin jaws or "Alligator Jaws" [similar to the OneWay Tower jaws]), and I hold my reground and shortened spade bit in a collet in the tailstock. The collet gives much more surface contact than a drill chuck, and helps with chatter a lot.

That said, using a center drill to start the draft hole is a good idea (if you use a forstner bit to square the shank face, center drill after that point!). It will help keep the bit from wandering on the initial cut. Other than that, shortening your spade bit as much as possible while still leaving enough to reach the bottom of the chuck (or a 1/16" from it) should help things a good bit.

Also, make sure your chamber bit is concentric! If not, I could see it drilling off-center quite easily.

And take the time to insure your drill press is completely square and tuned in. There are a ton of "how-to" videos showing the process.