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For discussion of the drilling and shaping of the stummel.
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Gatorade
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler »

Dave,

Welcome to the forum! I'm glad you like it.

The easy andswer to you questions is that ALL of it is engineering. :D As for the most important piece, it is the one you aren't doing well. Seriously though, probably the biggest piece is the openness of the pipe's draw. This is accomplished by a reasonalby sized draught hole (5/32"+), as well as an open stem. In my opinion, it is usually the stem that is that area most neglected, and therefore the area that most makers can improve. And it is usually the last 1/2" of the stem on the buttom end that is the culprit. It is quite important to drill that area with a very small bit, and then open that hole side to side for a wide, open slit that does not restrict the air flow.

Most pipe makers do not drill curved air holes. There are a few large pipe manufacturers that do -- and these pipe do have very large draught holes -- but in general pipes are drilled with straight draught holes.

I hope that helps. Again, welcome!

Tyler
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

I was interested in the curved draught hole to a while back. The head carver of Genod pipes, Jaques some one...darn it I can't remember, was an expert on this. The trick was that he used a flexible bit with a very short drill head, and then had a solid tube, in the shape of the curve he wanted, around the flexible end of the shaft. Too cool. The smallest flexibit I've seen, and will probably get, is a 3/16ths bit from some Canadian company.
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

Check out Ronlano Negotia's pipes. They are very artistic. And I am stumped on how the draught holes are straight, but he told me that all the draught holes are all straight lines.

I don't know th addy off hand, but he has a link on Greg Pease's site.
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler »

I may need to take some photos to explain this, but the only "trick" to having a steeply angled stem in relation to the bowl is to drill the draught hole on a different angle that the mortise. The mortise angle in relation to the bowl is what determines the angle of the stem in relation to the bowl, but the draught hole can be an entirely different angle.

http://tylerlanepipes.com/modules.php?s ... _photo.php

In this photo of my avatar pipe, you can see a similar pipe drawn on the block behind the Sullyfish. It is much steeper than even the Sullyfish. You can see that the draught hole, as it is drawn, will exit the face of the shank completed independent of the mortise! I will have two holes on the face of the shank, the mortise AND the draught hole. There is really no need to explain what I would do with that in this thread, because it is not normal to have such a situation that is that extreme. I use it simply to illustrated the difference in angles between the mortise and draught hole.

Does that help at all?

Tyler
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KurtHuhn
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Post by KurtHuhn »

As tyler mentioned, is isn't at all unusuall to have the mortis and draught hole be at different angles in relation to the face of the shank. Nearly all bent pipes, greater than 1/4 bent, have the draught hole at a different angle, sometimes very different.

As you can see in Tyler's picture, the critical thing is to make sure that the draught hole lines up with the hole in the tenon, and that the tenon basically bottoms out in the mortis. If it doesn't, the pipe will smoke awfully.
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler »

Well, sort of... :D

I gave an extreme example to illustrate the point. To have the draught hole exit the face of the shank seperately from the mortise is unusual, and the look would be unacceptable. That is why you hide it after you do it. :)

I'd say that easily 98% of bent pipes have th draught hole exit the face of the shank within the mortise. If you do nick the side of the mortise where it exits the shank, just chamfer the mortise until the nick is "gone".

Hope that clarifies.

Tyler
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