I drilled my mortise too deep

scotties22 · Post by **scotties22** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:37 am

I tried to take a picture, but it keeps coming out blurry.

So I drew out this nice little bent apple and started it over the weekend. Everything was going smoothly and then I drilled the mortise. I think I might have had an out of body experience and when I came to the mortise was about an 1/8 of an inch deeper than it should have been. WHAT THE FUCK????? I laid everything out on the block right and thought I had my drill bit marked right. Now the airway comes out of the mortise at the top.....no where near the middle. I'm pretty sure once I get a stem on it (which should be today) that it will not pass a cleaner. What can I do to at least get it to pass a cleaner?

wmolaw · Post by **wmolaw** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:00 am

scotties22 wrote:I tried to take a picture, but it keeps coming out blurry.

So I drew out this nice little bent apple and started it over the weekend. Everything was going smoothly and then I drilled the mortise. I think I might have had an out of body experience and when I came to the mortise was about an 1/8 of an inch deeper than it should have been. WHAT THE FUCK????? I laid everything out on the block right and thought I had my drill bit marked right. Now the airway comes out of the mortise at the top.....no where near the middle. I'm pretty sure once I get a stem on it (which should be today) that it will not pass a cleaner. What can I do to at least get it to pass a cleaner?

If the size of the shank can tolerate it, a larger mortise? Maybe 3/8 or so instead of 5/16,. depending on what size it is now.

scotties22 · Post by **scotties22** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:06 am

It's 3/8 now.

Post by **Tyler** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:21 am

Is it still in the mortise bottom, or out the top wall?

If its still in the bottom, this is not an unusual situation. Just "smear" the hole down to center using a Dremel or tile saw file. Then, this too shall pass.

Sasquatch · Post by **Sasquatch** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:29 am

Yup just trench out the "bottom" of the airway and build a ramp up to the airway from the mortise bottom if you can. If you can't, if it's really sideways, PM me for a little trick. PM me anyway, it makes me feel important.

scotties22 · Post by **scotties22** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:30 am

It's still in the bottom. Thanks.....I hadn't thought of that.

Sas.....check your in box Mr. Needy

Post by **Tyler** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:49 am

Sasquatch wrote:Yup just trench out the "bottom" of the airway and build a ramp up to the airway from the mortise bottom if you can. If you can't, if it's really sideways, PM me for a little trick. PM me anyway, it makes me feel important.

So what's up with secret tricks? Huh? We aren't deserving?

wmolaw · Post by **wmolaw** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:00 pm

Tyler wrote:
Sasquatch wrote:Yup just trench out the "bottom" of the airway and build a ramp up to the airway from the mortise bottom if you can. If you can't, if it's really sideways, PM me for a little trick. PM me anyway, it makes me feel important.
So what's up with secret tricks? Huh? We aren't deserving?

Guess that's just the truth. Now we all know, if we didn't before! LOL

scotties22 · Post by **scotties22** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:00 pm

Well it involves 3 eggs, a bulls penis and 4 feet of leather......I still don't know what it has to do with fixing the mortise????

Maybe Sas will enlighten us.

LexKY_Pipe · Post by **LexKY_Pipe** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:11 pm

Tyler, it's time to reinitiate the secret handshake too!

Post by **Tyler** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:18 pm

scotties22 wrote:Well it involves 3 eggs, a bulls penis and 4 feet of leather......I still don't know what it has to do with fixing the mortise????

Maybe Sas will enlighten us.

Oh! Well I already know that trick. I was hoping for something new and exotic. Bummer.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 1:06 pm

scotties22 wrote:Well it involves 3 eggs, a bulls penis and 4 feet of leather......I still don't know what it has to do with fixing the mortise????

Maybe Sas will enlighten us.

Bah! That's no secret trick. Sas loves to talk about that one. Loose lips sink ships.

d.huber · Post by **d.huber** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 2:29 pm

wdteipen wrote:Bah! That's no secret trick. Sas loves to talk about that one. Loose lips sink ships.

And Winnebagos.

Sasquatch · Post by **Sasquatch** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:25 pm

Fuck you Scottie. I never said the trick would FIX the mortise. I said, and I quote, "...if it's really sideways, PM me for a little trick." End quote.

I never said anything about fixing the pipe.

And come on, the egg one IS pretty fun.

wmolaw · Post by **wmolaw** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 9:20 am

Sasquatch wrote:Fuck you Scottie. I never said the trick would FIX the mortise. I said, and I quote, "...if it's really sideways, PM me for a little trick." End quote.

I never said anything about fixing the pipe.

And come on, the egg one IS pretty fun.

and the other two?

scotties22 · Post by **scotties22** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:41 am

For some reason I feel like I just fell into a "Messin' with Sasquatch" commercial

souljer · Post by **souljer** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 4:06 am

Hi,

• You could use dremel with a round bit to smear down the draft-hole, as suggested above.

• You could 'raise' the mortise floor back to the correct depth.
Make a small plug (a small length of a briar dowel you custom make for this). Cut the correct depth -the balance between the tenon and the current mortise floor- drill it out centered now (or later which might be easier) and then use the back end of a drill bit to press it into the mortise. If you make it so it just slides in easily you could leave it or if you want, carefully apply epoxy to the mortise floor and then press the part in place. Do not apply epoxy to the part as it could drag epoxy all the way down the mortise and make a bigger mess than the one you are trying to fix.

If you want to drill it out after putting it in place at least start the hole, before placing the part in the mortise, with a countersink or a 1/8 hole (but not all the way through -the draft-hole is not perpendicular to the mortise is it?) so you'll have a good, dead centered starting point but it won't guide the bit the wrong way since your draft-hole is at an angle relative to the mortise axis. You'll also need to epoxy it in place first in this case. If the top edge of your mortise has a notch from drilling the original draft-hole this will be a good guide for the small re-drill. Just do it by turning the chuck by hand, not with power. It's only an eighth or so. That shouldn't take too long.

When everything is dry, re-drill the draft-hole.

Some ideas that might help you think of something better.
Or I don't know.

Good luck. Let us know how it worked out.

Sasquatch · Post by **Sasquatch** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:37 am

souljer wrote:
If you want to drill it out after putting it in place at least start the hole, before placing the part in the mortise, with a countersink or a 1/8 hole (but not all the way through -the draft-hole is not perpendicular to the mortise is it?) so you'll have a good, dead centered starting point but it won't guide the bit the wrong way since your draft-hole is at an angle relative to the mortise axis. You'll also need to epoxy it in place first in this case. If the top edge of your mortise has a notch from drilling the original draft-hole this will be a good guide for the small re-drill. Just do it by turning the chuck by hand, not with power. It's only an eighth or so. That shouldn't take too long.

In this line of thought, as a "next time" thing, when you drill your mortise (correctly) swap to an airway sized bit and just tap the bottom of the mortise with it - drill a tiny little pilot hole. Then you have something to aim at when you do go to cut the airway - it will grab the airway bit and pull it into line, as it were.

wmolaw · Post by **wmolaw** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:51 am

Sasquatch wrote:
souljer wrote:
If you want to drill it out after putting it in place at least start the hole, before placing the part in the mortise, with a countersink or a 1/8 hole (but not all the way through -the draft-hole is not perpendicular to the mortise is it?) so you'll have a good, dead centered starting point but it won't guide the bit the wrong way since your draft-hole is at an angle relative to the mortise axis. You'll also need to epoxy it in place first in this case. If the top edge of your mortise has a notch from drilling the original draft-hole this will be a good guide for the small re-drill. Just do it by turning the chuck by hand, not with power. It's only an eighth or so. That shouldn't take too long.
In this line of thought, as a "next time" thing, when you drill your mortise (correctly) swap to an airway sized bit and just tap the bottom of the mortise with it - drill a tiny little pilot hole. Then you have something to aim at when you do go to cut the airway - it will grab the airway bit and pull it into line, as it were.

By the way, you didn't happen to be in Utah recently, were you?

http://www.foxnews.com/science/2012/11/ ... p=features

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:14 pm

Of course, you could do what Peterson does and just over drill the mortise and act like you did it on purpose and call it a moisture trap.

pipemakersforum.com

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