You think you're so smart. Ha.scotties22 wrote:George, I will be over this afternoon with Heath's truck to take all your devil tools off your hands. We all know you specialize in HAND MADE stems and therefore use NO machinery at all in the course of your work.
tou·ché, sir.....tou·chéLatakiaLover wrote:You think you're so smart. Ha.scotties22 wrote:George, I will be over this afternoon with Heath's truck to take all your devil tools off your hands. We all know you specialize in HAND MADE stems and therefore use NO machinery at all in the course of your work.
I went down to the courthouse and had my middle name legally changed to Hand years ago.
Yes, it got rave reviews especially inre the delicate placement of the rustication. Boring the chamber and airway was a bitch tho, the termites almost gave out on me. Nasty little bastards to try to train. The briar was at least 400 years old and so frigging hard my cat couldn't scratch it (hence my permanent liquid diet).LatakiaLover wrote:How, THAT'S what I'm talkin' about.oklahoma red wrote:I gnawed my first pipe with my teeth.
Instead of "hand made," what we ought to be aspiring to is mouth made.
Get as far away from machine-made crap as possible. It's the only way to be a TRUE artist.
I bet that pipe brought a cool $250K on ebay, too, didn't it, Red? Collectors know their stuff, and recognize what matters and what doesn't straight away. There's no foolin' 'em when it comes to pipe pricing, and the method used to create it is the most important of all.
btw --- did you have flute music playing in the background while you chewed?
Yeah, but that $250K made it all worth it, right?oklahoma red wrote: Alas, the Eco-Briar was a one shot deal.
Put the reverse mating piece on a pin gauge and cut with the same cone angle- it creates the perfect reverse fit. Simple.oklahoma red wrote:Granted. But, inquiring minds want to know: how do you make the mirror image concave cut that perfectly fits the convex cut you just made on the lathe? Unless of course your intent was solely to put a contoured surface on the end of the shank without making a mating piece.The Smoking Yeti wrote:Also, making a cone shaped facing cut can achieve a similar result- you just play with the axis you're cutting it on- it works best in a 2jaw chuck.
This entire exercise is very simple to achieve but unfortunately is not available to probably 99.9% of pipe makers: CNC mill with a ball nose cutter. This process can be utilized to make all sorts of fancy interlocking joints. My bet is that this is how Maigurs did what he did.
Matching router bits could work but how does one hold the blocks while utilizing the router bits? Those things have to be spun at some serious rpm to be effective. Takes you back to at least a manual milling machine. Oh yeah, you paid how much for that matching set of custom router bits?? Or, it took you how many hours to grind that perfectly matching set of cutters on your bench grinder??
NC is the only way to fly in my bookIF the equipment is available without having to pay a machine shop a small fortune to do it for you.
There is a lot of value-added because of the uniqueness of the finished product and the fact it was achieved without hours and hours of laborious hand work.
Now, if anyone has a practical alternative to achieving a contoured joint, we are all ears.
Chas.
You are certainly correct IF you are cutting a straight sided cone whose angle is easily duplicated. Now let's say you've rounded off the end of the shank in a manner that duplicates a segment of a sphere. And you did it by manipulating the X and Y axes of the carriage by the so called "etch-a-sketch" method. Is your muscle memory good enough to exactly duplicate the cut for the concave mating piece? If you can, BRAVO!Put the reverse mating piece on a pin gauge and cut with the same cone angle- it creates the perfect reverse fit. Simple.
Yeah, Red is a bit, um... well, you know, not all that quick on the uptake when it comes to technical stuff.The Smoking Yeti wrote:I'd explain if I could, but it's best done in person.
Sasquatch wrote:Scalable quality vectors make me SO horny.
You'll like this, then:Sasquatch wrote:Scalable quality vectors make me SO horny.
I don't think there's really need to make the joint a compound curve to get a nice visual effect. It may be possible, either by being a badass at lathe tricks (see very old french pipes, they had lathe turning and joining techniques that would blow your mind, and they did those things 150 years ago when cnc wasn't really easily accessibleoklahoma red wrote:You are certainly correct IF you are cutting a straight sided cone whose angle is easily duplicated. Now let's say you've rounded off the end of the shank in a manner that duplicates a segment of a sphere. And you did it by manipulating the X and Y axes of the carriage by the so called "etch-a-sketch" method. Is your muscle memory good enough to exactly duplicate the cut for the concave mating piece? If you can, BRAVO!
Now let's make it really interesting and make the joint a compound curve or better yet make the curved segment off-axis.
Chas.
), or with cnc milling, but you can make very interesting joints with the technique Yeti explained. I welcome your input Wojtek. It's easy, just fire up the CNC millRed, now it's your turn to figure out how to do it with an S shaped convex and off-axis joint
Or, as some of my Navy SEAL acquaintances used to say "there is no problem which cannot be solved with the proper application of explosives".
Sounds good in theory, especially since you're working with a simple curve. I don't have any sheet or I'd try it.Solomon_pipes wrote:What about this. Ebonite is very flexible when heated. Make the cut into a chunk of briar. The two briar bits are the same now exact curve. Heat the ebonite slice and clamp together. Glue up on the lathe, let it dry overnight, and start turning. The briar may need a slight sanding, but once it is sanded the epoxy should take up any slight difference. seems much easier, although not nearly as precise.
