Welcome to the forums! Thanks for that explaination. It is not completely clear to me what you are saying, but I would like to know more. Perhaps if I would learn Swedish that would make it easier for you!
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Trever,
The trick to the chamber is in the bits, as Kurt has mentioned. I have some of the bits ground by Ken, and it is not overly difficult holding onto the stummel while they drill. I did practice this a few times with some scraps before attempting it on the stummel.
If I am not mistaken, Todd Johnson uses this method of shaping then drilling exclusively. I have seen his tobacoo chamber bit, and it is quite a tool. He had it custom made from a solid steel rod. It is ground to the profile he uses for his chamber, and is cut-away along the long axis of the cutting surface. In other words, it is like a spade bit that is fully supported by a semi-circle around one side. (OK, I'm sure that makes very little sense. Maybe I should learn English too!)
As for drilling the draught hole, I was surprised at how easy it was to hit the chamber in the center. I stood over the stummel, looking into the bowl as I pushed it onto the bit. The alignment was by eye, and not difficult. Of course, along the other axis I missed! So the up and down thing is a bit of a challenge because you cannot be looking at the alignment of both axiis at the same time. I think the trick to this is to draw your lines on the stummel, and start the hole and check the alignment aftre about 1/8". My problem, I think, was that I didn't actually drill the tobacco chamber as deeply as I intended, so my line on the stummel were off. Thus I drilled right under the chamber and never saw the bit go by.
That is the best I can say for now. I do look forward to more experiments with this method.
Tyler