Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG ways
Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG ways
My 2nd pipe and my first time drilling my own.
I was going for a Dublin/cherrywood (sort of)
Still so frustrated that I couldn't flush fit the stem/shank. Any suggestions on a pre-fab stem with no lathe?
Things I realize already: symmetry is terrible, stem is too long.
Other criticism or helpful suggestions would be appreciated.
I was going for a Dublin/cherrywood (sort of)
Still so frustrated that I couldn't flush fit the stem/shank. Any suggestions on a pre-fab stem with no lathe?
Things I realize already: symmetry is terrible, stem is too long.
Other criticism or helpful suggestions would be appreciated.
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- sandahlpipe
- Posts: 2106
- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:49 pm
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Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
Symmetry is surprisingly difficult to achieve without a lathe (and even sometimes with a lathe!). There are several threads on the forum on how to fit a stem properly. Without seeing your shank face or stem, it's hard to tell. In general, if you're using a tenon tool, make sure it's sharp on the cutting edge and make sure the shank is faced and the mortise drilled without moving the stummel. Then make sure you have the proper chamfer around the mortise. If there's a hairline gap, you can fix that with 1000 grit sandpaper on a flat surface.
The main thing I would focus on for the next pipe is keeping your lines straight. You can see how the shank especially has wobbles in the light. Hold the shank up to a straight edge while shaping. I find flat files are helpful to keep my lines straight. Also, don't round over the saddle. It always feels like you should, but it never looks quite right. Finally, you need a smaller radius around the bowl/shank junction. On the top of the shank, you've cut into the bowl with the line and also made a pinch all the way around the shank.
Keep on working on it! There's some definite improvement here.
The main thing I would focus on for the next pipe is keeping your lines straight. You can see how the shank especially has wobbles in the light. Hold the shank up to a straight edge while shaping. I find flat files are helpful to keep my lines straight. Also, don't round over the saddle. It always feels like you should, but it never looks quite right. Finally, you need a smaller radius around the bowl/shank junction. On the top of the shank, you've cut into the bowl with the line and also made a pinch all the way around the shank.
Keep on working on it! There's some definite improvement here.
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
Thanks for your (continued) help Jeremiah
I don't have a tenon tool. I shaped the stem with a file and then sandpaper until it fit....
the one part of your critique I don't understand is about the radius. You wrote that I cut the bowl with the line and also made a pinch all the way around the shank. Can you explain this a different way?
I don't have a tenon tool. I shaped the stem with a file and then sandpaper until it fit....
the one part of your critique I don't understand is about the radius. You wrote that I cut the bowl with the line and also made a pinch all the way around the shank. Can you explain this a different way?
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
Make your pipes less lumpy. If you don't have a lathe, a straight file can help get the straight lines you're looking for on a Dublin and on your shanks.
- sandahlpipe
- Posts: 2106
- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:49 pm
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Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
A tenon tool or a lathe will save a lot of frustration when trying to fit a stem properly. Another perhaps easier alternative is to use rod stock with delrin as a tenon. Files and sandpaper for the tenon sounds more tedious than I'd be willing to attempt.calsbeek wrote:Thanks for your (continued) help Jeremiah
I don't have a tenon tool. I shaped the stem with a file and then sandpaper until it fit....
the one part of your critique I don't understand is about the radius. You wrote that I cut the bowl with the line and also made a pinch all the way around the shank. Can you explain this a different way?
The radius I'm referring is the curve that goes up from the shank into the bowl on the top line. I don't know what tool or tools you used to shape that area, but I'd recommend a 3mm round file or some other 3mm piece with sandpaper wrapped around it. As far as cutting into the bowl, if you hold up a straight edge to the front of the bowl, you'll see a gap between the straight edge and the bowl towards the shank. Again, you'd see that gap between the shank and the straight edge right near the bowl. It makes the shank look "pinched" when the line goes in from the straight edge and "lumpy" where it protrudes in other places that are supposed to be straight.
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
oh wait, you mean I shouldn't have gone so far into the bowl?
Damn, I misinterpreted your earlier advice in the other thread, thinking you meant I needed more of an arc into the bowl.
I blew it huh
less lumpy, got it Wayne. A good adjective to avoid.
cheers
Damn, I misinterpreted your earlier advice in the other thread, thinking you meant I needed more of an arc into the bowl.
I blew it huh
less lumpy, got it Wayne. A good adjective to avoid.
cheers
- sandahlpipe
- Posts: 2106
- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:49 pm
- Location: Zimmerman, MN
- Contact:
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
Sorry about that. Guess I should have said you needed a sharper/smaller radius.
calsbeek wrote:oh wait, you mean I shouldn't have gone so far into the bowl?
Damn, I misinterpreted your earlier advice in the other thread, thinking you meant I needed more of an arc into the bowl.
I blew it huh
less lumpy, got it Wayne. A good adjective to avoid.
cheers
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
Pipe making is hard enough (especially without a lathe), so don't mix and match your shapes.
Pick one basic shape, find a picture on the internet of a fine example of that shape and try to reproduce it exactly.
This isn't plagiarism, these shapes are all well established. And you will find this to be a great way to learn.
Todd
Pick one basic shape, find a picture on the internet of a fine example of that shape and try to reproduce it exactly.
This isn't plagiarism, these shapes are all well established. And you will find this to be a great way to learn.
Todd
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
good call, I've found someone else's pics online from the drawing on the block to the finished pip. I plan to "emulate" that on my next turn.
I learn a lot every time I logon.
Todd, by "mix of shapes" do you mean dublin/cherrywood or something else that I don't see yet?
I learn a lot every time I logon.
Todd, by "mix of shapes" do you mean dublin/cherrywood or something else that I don't see yet?
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
I mean the Dublin/Cherrywood idea.
There are different schools of thought, but my opinion is that it would be most helpful to you to work on mastering a few traditional pipe shapes first.
Once you understand why they work aesthetically you can begin to experiment.
That is if you want to sell pipes.
If you are just making pipes for fun, then make what you like.
Todd
There are different schools of thought, but my opinion is that it would be most helpful to you to work on mastering a few traditional pipe shapes first.
Once you understand why they work aesthetically you can begin to experiment.
That is if you want to sell pipes.
If you are just making pipes for fun, then make what you like.
Todd
Re: Pipe #2 Dublin...slight improvement over #1 (but a LONG
I can't conceive of selling a pipe (except maybe to my dad).
and its not why I got into the hobby. Although I don't know what I"ll do once I have 35 pipes laying around.
and its not why I got into the hobby. Although I don't know what I"ll do once I have 35 pipes laying around.