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I returned from PNG a bit abruptly last week. This is my first pipe in a couple years. I'm not crazy about this shape. The only major issue with this pipe is that my forstner bit chewed up my shank face. I should have tried to smooth it out, but just kept going.
The stem though is my first real attempt at a hand cut stem and would really appreciate some critique (rip it apart, George) A lot more respect for you guys. As I had only modified preforms before I didn't really grasp the amount of work that goes into it until now.
Sorry for the crappy photos. I know nothing of photography and all I have is my phone.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
Welcome back to the US.
Nice job for a first hand cut stem.
I note three things.
On the third photo- a view from the top, the shank appears to taper to the stem shank junction and the stem flares a bit from there. On the lateral views, the shank flares and bulges.
At the button, you have a radius to the button rather than a 90 degree angle. George did this purposefully on one of his featured repairs, but most others don't .
There are also some fine sanding marks visible behind the button. I refer you to George's video, "Polishing Behind the Button" from 2014. It is resurrected recently in the stem section and also referenced in "Thank you George" .
The slot looks nice and crisp.
DocAitch.
Last edited by DocAitch on Fri Aug 19, 2016 12:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
DocAitch wrote:Welcome back to the US.
Nice job for a first hand cut stem.
I note three things.
On the third photo- a view from the top, the shank appears to taper to the stem shank junction and the stem flares a bit from there. On the lateral views, the shank flares and bilges.
At the button, you have a radius to the button rather than a 90 degree angle. George did this purposefully on one of his featured repairs, but most others don't .
There are also some fine sanding marks visible behind the button. I refer you to George's video, "Polishing Behind the Button" from 2014. It is resurrected recently in the stem section and also referenced in "Thank you George" .
The slot looks nice and crisp.
DocAitch.
Thanks Doc...I went and watch the videos. I will definitely be trying those things out on the next go. I serious lack some tools. I did all the shaping behind the button with finger nail filing pads and I think that's what caused the rounded seems. Thanks for the info.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
JMG wrote:
Thanks Doc...I went and watch the videos. I will definitely be trying those things out on the next go. I serious lack some tools. I did all the shaping behind the button with finger nail filing pads and I think that's what caused the rounded seems. Thanks for the info.
Pillar files and nut files are nice to have, but the most important tools in George's video are the flat bar with the electrical tape and his fuzzy buff wheel.
You can make the flat bar out off any bar stock or an old file. I used a piece of stock that I got from Home Depot. It was apparently punched when it was cut, so the edges and flat surface had to be trued up. (Sand paper on a flat surface if you don't have an appropriate flat wheel) I have a smaller one made from brass as well. With this tool and the appropriate grit, you can do everything you need to do around the button. Don't forget the scotch tape when working on the crease or you develope gouges further up the stem.
Scottie22 uses Popsicle sticks for the same tasks.
The fuzzy buff wheel is self explanatory.
DocAitch
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
