Some advice for the beginner

[BHenriques]

Hello all,
Last I posted here I had just finished a few pre-bored kits from pimo. I was able to learn much of the basics and have gotten the feel for pipe making, so I'm curious where I should go from here.

Currently the only machinery I have is a drill press. In order to take the next step do boring myself and start learning stem work I figure I should go ahead and invest in getting the needed machinery and tools:
-Drill bits for chamber/mortise-where's the best place to buy these?
-Band Saw for squaring blocks(as well as initial shaping)
-Smaller metal lathe for stem work

Do you think this order is the correct way to approach this? I suppose I am just looking for some basic advice, so any insight is much appreciated.

Thanks
-Brenton

[bscofield]

Hello all,
Last I posted here I had just finished a few pre-bored kits from pimo. I was able to learn much of the basics and have gotten the feel for pipe making, so I'm curious where I should go from here.

Currently the only machinery I have is a drill press. In order to take the next step do boring myself and start learning stem work I figure I should go ahead and invest in getting the needed machinery and tools:
-Drill bits for chamber/mortise-where's the best place to buy these?
-Band Saw for squaring blocks(as well as initial shaping)
-Smaller metal lathe for stem work

Do you think this order is the correct way to approach this? I suppose I am just looking for some basic advice, so any insight is much appreciated.

Thanks
-Brenton

Brenton,

You don't necessarily need a lathe right off the bat. Don't get me wrong, I'm chomping at the bit for one (mostly to improve on my stem work), but you don't NEED one in order make nice pipes. You can do a lot of work with pre-fab stems.

For the other questions:

1- Ken Lamb appears to make the best bits around. He's posted on here before. Do a search for his name and you'll find a web address.

2- As for a band saw, I'm happy with mine. It's just a cheap $90 Delta that I got at Lowe's and it's fine.

For looking into lathes somebody else will probably post on useful information.

[JMB]

Brenton,

bscofield, is right on the money by saying Ken Lamb has the best "bit's" around. However they cost a lot. I would suggest getting the set from Pimo. They will get the job done. When starting out I had trouble of working the bit's to hard & to fast. You don't want to over work a good set of Bit's. Those are your money makers or savers.

[LexKY_Pipe]

Tim West @ J. H. Lowe is also a good source for pipe making bits etc.
http://www.jhlowe.com

I use his tenon turning tool on my Jet lathe for shaping stems. I also use the Jet wood lathe for drilling the tobacco chamber, mortise and draught holes. I find that it's a great lathe for this.

I had a machinist fabricate a holder for my briar based on some models you can see on the internet. Many pipe makers use a good talon chuck.

I do all my drilling on low speed with spade bits. I like Ken Lambs bits, but IMHO he's pricey for the hobbyist pipe maker. Begin selling a bunch and he might be worth the buck.

[KurtHuhn]

Bits:
- Ken lamb (best): http://www.lambpipes.com
- PIMO (inexpensive): http://www.pimopipecraft.com/
- Tim West (inexpensive): http://www.jhlowe.com
- Make your own from spade bits using a grinder

Band Saw:
- Delta 9" is perfectly usable for trimming blocks

Lathe:
- The Taig mini-lathe is used by some folks
- Some pipe makers do all their stem work on a wood lathe
- Others won't use anything smaller than a Jet BD920

Advice:
Make damn sure you need a lathe to do what you need to do, and you get the right lathe for what you need to do. Right now all my "lathe work" is done on a Jet Mini Lathe (A wood lathe) - that's boring, drilling, some shaping, and all my stem work. However, after talking to Jack Howell and Jody Davis in Columbus, I'm sold on getting a metal lathe. Now I just need to find one that meets my needs. Will a beginner need to get a metal lathe? Probably not. It would be nice, but not necessary. And it's a significant investment in something that might not meet your needs.

For bits, learn how to grind your own. There are multiple posts on the board here describing the process. For spade bits, all you need is a cheap bench grinder, and you're in business. A lathe of some kind helps if you're grinding S&D bits ({obLegalDisclaimer} but I would never suggest you actually try this). Ken Lamb's bits are pricy, and he doesn't sell them to just anyone, but I hear they are worth it.

Any old band saw will do - really. Just make sure it has at least a 3.5" cutting height, or you may find some larger blocks won't fit.

[ArtGuy]

The power tools I use in my shop are:

Jet Mini Wood lathe with OneWay scroll chuck (drilling, shaping, buffing, waxing)

Taig Metal Lathe (tenon turning and stem inlays)

8 inch disk/belt sander (squaring blocks and stem shaping)

9 inch Band Saw

NOTE: the Jet 9 x 20 metal lathe can take the place of both the taig and Jet Mini.. combined, those tools cost about 800 bucks total or so if bought new...the Jet 9 x 20 can be had for $1000 from some online retailers.

[BHenriques]

First off, thanks for the responses. From what you've said I think I'll buy some pimo or tim west bits to start with for the time being. That and the addition of a needed bandsaw to my workshop I'll be able to work out some decent pipes.

As far as a lathe goes, what advantage is there in using a wood lathe to do drilling/boring over a drill press?

Where would I be best off sourcing some decent, yet affordable briar from?

[KurtHuhn]

I find it's easier to get things lined up on a lathe, and easier to accurately drill/bore. Some folks find the use of a lathe cumbersome,a d prefer the drill press. It's all about your personal preference.

I get most of my briar direct from the cutter in Algeria:
www.briargrains.com
I also pick up a block or two from other sources if I want to use other varieties.

[NvilleDave]

I would add one thing to what has already been said--pipe making generates alot of particulate matter from sanding and such--don't forget to protect your respiratory system. Either use air filteration, dust collection or a good respirator--I use all three especially when I'm working with any kind of exotic wood.

You're going to adapt to whatever equipment you buy..you'll develop your own methods to make this or that work. You'll make little jigs and such that will make your life easier and drilling more accurate.

I have three lathes (which is embarrasing to admit because of the clunky pipes I make)--a wood lathe, a jet metal lathe and a taig--save up for a decent metal lathe--watch ebay for a south bend or an atlas--that's my advice.

[alexanderfrese]

…snip which is embarrasing to admit because of the clunky pipes I make …snip

Now, c'mon! :thumb:

[marks]

The power tools I use in my shop are:

Jet Mini Wood lathe with OneWay scroll chuck (drilling, shaping, buffing, waxing)

Taig Metal Lathe (tenon turning and stem inlays)

8 inch disk/belt sander (squaring blocks and stem shaping)

9 inch Band Saw

NOTE: the Jet 9 x 20 metal lathe can take the place of both the taig and Jet Mini.. combined, those tools cost about 800 bucks total or so if bought new...the Jet 9 x 20 can be had for $1000 from some online retailers.

My list is similar to John's, except I do not own a band saw, I do not own a wood lathe, and I use a drill press to drill the briar (that's how I learned to drill, so that is how I do it).

The first thing I bought, however, was a dust collector with 1 micron bags, and if I am filing or sanding, the dust collector is running.

I've also acquired a lot of different files, and do a lot of hand shaping with them. Also, I use a dremel quite a bit, and I have lots of different bits to use for various jobs. Even a good, sharp pocket knife can be used in making a pipe (the ridge on pipe 1805 was cut with a knife - I also used a knife in making the inside corners crisp where the shank meets the bowl on the panel volcano).

There are a lot of ways to get the end result. Some may take longer than others, but you will still get there.

[BHenriques]

Kurt-I think I'll place an order with that cutter you suggested. How is it buying from overseas, the shipping time and cost,ect.? Also, I was curious what is the difference between the two qualities of plateaux they sell?

[JHowell]

I find it's easier to get things lined up on a lathe, and easier to accurately drill/bore. Some folks find the use of a lathe cumbersome,a d prefer the drill press. It's all about your personal preference.

While it's possible to get well-centered drilling with a drill press (I started with a drill press and a self-centering vise) it is more difficult than with a lathe. When you spin the work, the bit tends to find center on its own, whereas when you spin the bit, you have to more precisely locate the center of the work so the bit winds up there. That said, the folks who shape first and handhold the stummel to drill seem to do alright, with a bit of practice.

I have three lathes: a delta midi wood lathe with a 2-jaw chuck, a small Atlas metal lathe, and a Hardinge second operation metal lathe. I use all three, the Delta for drilling and shaping stummels, the Hardinge for stems and some stummel work, and the Atlas for making various bands and flocs. While I love the Hardinge the most for its quality and 5C collets (collets ROCK), and while the wood lathe is the best tool for wood work because of its uncluttered access, I *could* do the work of all three with a 9" or 10" South Bend, and I'm always looking for one. If you can find one for a decent price, it won't depreciate.

[KurtHuhn]

Kurt-I think I'll place an order with that cutter you suggested. How is it buying from overseas, the shipping time and cost,ect.? Also, I was curious what is the difference between the two qualities of plateaux they sell?

IMO, the quality between the two plateaux grades from Yazid is not as wide as I would like. The Cirta is good briar, no doubt about it, and I find that it is of excellent quality as far as pits and inclusions go. the grain is not normally ver striking, but you can find the occasional incredibly grained block. The Tassili, however, doesn't meet my expectations. I may be expecting too much, I don't know. The grain is more dense, the birdseye tighter, and the contrast pretty good. Is it worth the cost difference? I don't know. I usually get the Tasilli large and the Cirta medium, so the cost is closer, but the Tassili is still about twice as expensive as the Cirta. The price is still good, no doubt, but you can't be expecting Mimmo's quality from them.

Yazid ships almost immediately, via UPS, and doesn't expect payment until you've had a chance to examine the blocks and approve of the quality. This is one reason why I love dealing with him. Ordering, shipping, and reciept are painless - at least for me. Others have had trouble getting their briar to clear customs and have needed to fill out forms. I can't recall the specifics of that though. It takes about 2 weeks from the time you order the briar for the briar to show up on your doorstep.

[LexKY_Pipe]

Kurt

Does he require a minimum order size?

[KurtHuhn]

I honestly don't know. I don't see any indication of a minimum order on his site though.

[BHenriques]

Is it really worth it to buy ebauchons? I was looking to get a few so I'd have something cheaper to practice my boring on before moving on to better quality, but it seems as if the cirta plateaux is the same price and would more likely have better grain if I was successful.

[KurtHuhn]

The ebauchons usually are cut extremely well and have areas of spectacular birdseye. They're definitely worth the same price as the Cirta. You'd use those for different pipes, normally, where you want to accentuate birdseye on the sides of the pipe. Which on you get depends entirely on the type of grain you like, and what sort of pipes you wish to make.

[NvilleDave]

Brenton,
Were you able to get an order in to Briar Grains? I asked for a quote through the website 4 days ago and sent a followup email this morning and still haven't heard anything. Did you have any luck?

Kurt does it normally take awhile to get a response from them?

Dave

[KurtHuhn]

Yes. It normally takes a while to get a response. They do eventually get back to you though, and once an order is confirmed, they ship right away.