Anyone using acrylic for handcut stems have any bits of information that could save me from meltdown? I just got a length and will be giving it a go on a pipe I'm currently working on. Thanks in advance!!
Matt
Handcutting acrylic
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KurtHuhn
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I'm pretty sure that pipemakers emporium carries cast acrylic. If it's square, chances are it's cast in plate form, then cut into strips for sale. Other than that, most places will tell you if it's cast versus extruded. There's a *world* of difference between the two, and most reputable dealers won't want to lose customers by selling extruded and not identifying it as such.
Also, most multi-color acrylic is going to be cast, just by virtue of the manufacturing methods needed to make the patterns.
Also, most multi-color acrylic is going to be cast, just by virtue of the manufacturing methods needed to make the patterns.
I work primarily with acrylic, and the stuff you want is cast acrylic, which has already been recommended. I always use a dust collector when working with this stuff, as cutting it down on a belt sander will sling a lot of fine dust. It is typically much harder to work than ebonite, and takes longer to shape with files and sandpaper when going for the final shape, so be patient when working it. When going through the sanding grits, I always use a magnifying lamp to look at the stem to make sure I get out all the scratches from the previous grit.
One big tip I can give you is to use a good cutting fluid when drilling, as the drill bit can get quite hot and the acrylic can melt, creating a struggle for you to get the drill bit out (actually, ebonite can do this as well). I use tru edge cutting fluid (recommended by B Ruthenberg) as it is approved for use in food processing equipment. I put a little on the drill bit, run the bit into the acrylic, remove the bit after a second or two, let the acrylic and bit cool, repeat, then put another drop of cutting fluid on the stem and repeat all steps. Yes, it takes a while to drill out, but the process works for me.
When sanding, I go through 1200 grit paper, buff with white compound, then buff with Menzerna tan ultrafine compound. The acrylic will almost look wet when done it shines so.
Another tip is to turn the acrylic to roughly the final diameter you want then while it is on the stummel, sand the shank to the acrylic. Since the acrylic is much harder than the briar, you don't want to go the other direction. I leave the stem on the shaped stummel as I go through the grits on the stem, and you cannot feel the joint between the shank and stem when I am done.
Have fun experimenting with this material. If you like it, Delvies Plastics has a terrific assortment of colors, and their black is fabulous. There is a link on my site to Catterall pipes, another fellow who sells through the Pipe and Pint. He also uses a lot of acrylic from Delvies, and the smoke grey he used on a couple of pipes is really cool.
One final thought. I have broken cast acrylic while turning it down as I was working it way too aggressively on the lathe (I've only done this once, though, and I was taking way too aggressive cuts on a thin section).
One big tip I can give you is to use a good cutting fluid when drilling, as the drill bit can get quite hot and the acrylic can melt, creating a struggle for you to get the drill bit out (actually, ebonite can do this as well). I use tru edge cutting fluid (recommended by B Ruthenberg) as it is approved for use in food processing equipment. I put a little on the drill bit, run the bit into the acrylic, remove the bit after a second or two, let the acrylic and bit cool, repeat, then put another drop of cutting fluid on the stem and repeat all steps. Yes, it takes a while to drill out, but the process works for me.
When sanding, I go through 1200 grit paper, buff with white compound, then buff with Menzerna tan ultrafine compound. The acrylic will almost look wet when done it shines so.
Another tip is to turn the acrylic to roughly the final diameter you want then while it is on the stummel, sand the shank to the acrylic. Since the acrylic is much harder than the briar, you don't want to go the other direction. I leave the stem on the shaped stummel as I go through the grits on the stem, and you cannot feel the joint between the shank and stem when I am done.
Have fun experimenting with this material. If you like it, Delvies Plastics has a terrific assortment of colors, and their black is fabulous. There is a link on my site to Catterall pipes, another fellow who sells through the Pipe and Pint. He also uses a lot of acrylic from Delvies, and the smoke grey he used on a couple of pipes is really cool.
One final thought. I have broken cast acrylic while turning it down as I was working it way too aggressively on the lathe (I've only done this once, though, and I was taking way too aggressive cuts on a thin section).
wow!!! thanks for all that info!!!! a few questions...
thanks again, much appreciated!
where might I acquire this stuff?I use tru edge cutting fluid
and this stuff?Menzerna tan ultrafine compound
Just to be sure I'm reading you right(I still haven't had a cup-o-joe), I should turn or otherwise shape the stem to a diameter(or size) less than the shank? That makes sense to me...turn the acrylic to roughly the final diameter you want then while it is on the stummel, sand the shank to the acrylic.
thanks again, much appreciated!
Yes, shape the diameter of the shank to the diameter of the acrylic stem. If you go the other way, you will have problems with your lines going all wavy on you.
I ordered the cutting fluid from MSC Industrial and I ordered the tan compound from Grizzly. The nice thing is that they work as well on ebonite as acrylic. The cutting fluid helps the ebonite from getting burned from too much heat when drilling, and the tan compound makes the ebonite so very shiny (it actually takes out the fine scratches that the white compound leaves behind).
I ordered the cutting fluid from MSC Industrial and I ordered the tan compound from Grizzly. The nice thing is that they work as well on ebonite as acrylic. The cutting fluid helps the ebonite from getting burned from too much heat when drilling, and the tan compound makes the ebonite so very shiny (it actually takes out the fine scratches that the white compound leaves behind).
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alexanderfrese
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Bochum, Germany
- Contact:
Menzerna is a German manufacturer of fluid and solid polishing media. They have an English version of their main Website here and an American site (which does not list all the products, but might make a contact to a local supplier) here.
Please note that if you use their product finder in the main site, there are some untranslated words in the tables showing the results. "mattieren" means "matting" (you gess…), "vorpolieren" means "pre-polishing", "polieren" is "polishing" and "abklären" means "lustering"
I contacted them once and asked for samples of some of their compounds. They were very helpful in finding the right stuff out of their wide range and finally sent me three of their big bars. Some days later, they asked, if and how much I wanted to order. I apologized and said, they already sent me a lifetime quantity with those blocks. I offered to pay for those, but the contact person was so kind to leave it that way.
I promised to spread the word, that their compounds are good for pipe making – which I do with this posting. But please – don't you all go and ask for some sample… 8O
Please note that if you use their product finder in the main site, there are some untranslated words in the tables showing the results. "mattieren" means "matting" (you gess…), "vorpolieren" means "pre-polishing", "polieren" is "polishing" and "abklären" means "lustering"
I contacted them once and asked for samples of some of their compounds. They were very helpful in finding the right stuff out of their wide range and finally sent me three of their big bars. Some days later, they asked, if and how much I wanted to order. I apologized and said, they already sent me a lifetime quantity with those blocks. I offered to pay for those, but the contact person was so kind to leave it that way.
I promised to spread the word, that their compounds are good for pipe making – which I do with this posting. But please – don't you all go and ask for some sample… 8O
Alexander Frese
www.quarum.de
www.quarum.de