Epoxy

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:08 am

I know there has been a number of discussions about epoxy on this forum. I would, however, like to do a little research into the types of epoxy that everybody is using. I have been having some issues lately with the epoxy that I am using and would like to see who is using what.

So, for anyone using epoxy for the purpose of setting Delrin tenons, what kind of epoxy are you using (brand and description)?

Thanks,

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:43 am

Any 15-minute or 30-minute epoxy should be good. Just be sure you let it cure for at least 12 hours before working it. I personally use T-88 structured epoxy, which requires at least 24 hours curing time. More if the ambient temp is low.

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:03 pm

Thanks Kurt...you know maybe I am not cutting good enough grooves in the delrin and the inside of the mortise. Maybe that is why I am having the problems that I am having.

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:47 pm

Bryan,
Do you cut grooves in two directions. The first is a horizontal ring or two around the delrin so it does not easily pull out which I do while it is chucked up. Then a set or vertical v shaped grooves with a hand file so that it does not twist. I've used to use 5 minute epoxy and had no problems.

I recently started using J.B. Weld for shank extensions that were fairly close to the stummel. The JB stuff has a higher heat tollerence (700º) and I also believe it is stronger than epoxy (although I can't remember the exact psi). It is a greyish color and the set time is similar to structured epoxy. As long as it is a black stem I've been using it for the delrin also. No problems so far.

They claim that this JB stuff has been used sucessfully to repair cracked engine blocks on some super beefy truck.

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 4:13 pm

ckr,

Thanks, I really think I need to change the way I am preparing the Delrin and mortise. I do not believe I am doing enough with my grooves in the Delrin. I think I will take yours and Kurt's advice.

Thanks guys for the info, much appreciated!

staffwalker · Post by **staffwalker** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:21 pm

Hi, I would be interested if someone would comment on the toxic aspect of some of the epoxies used. Surely some of these substances give off toxic fumes when heated? How do you determine what is safe and what is not. I don't see anyway to completely insure that whatever epoxy one uses doesn't get heated and release fumes into the smoke. Even if you redrill the airway the epoxy is still there less than 1/1000 of a mm away from the smoke.

I had never considered JB Weld because I was afraid it might give off toxic fumes. I know it is the tops when repairing but I don't think I would use it, for instance, to repair castiron cookware.

I have a hot tup held together with ten tubes of JB after it froze and burst. It's great stuff.

bob gilbert

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:53 am

Bob,

Had never considered the aspect of toxic fumes as JB weld basis is epoxy resin the same as epoxy glue.

I use it in the same manner as epoxy and so far I am not aware of any strange smell. However, the pipe with the stem extension where it is about 3/4 of an inch from the stummel I have not yet smoked. It is this particular situation that I felt it would be better than epoxy. It is basically holding a brass band with two short tenons. One into the short shank on the stummel and the other into the wood extension.

I am glad to hear that your hot tub is holding up so well.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:17 am

Someone here once claimed that all epoxies are food safe when cured. I don't know how much I believe that *all* epoxies are food safe, but I am inclined to believe that pretty much anything available at the hardware store or woodworking store is safe enough at the temperature of tobacco smoke that there's no impact on the resins.

For use very close to the stummel, you typically strengthen the joint with a metal tube (I prefer stainless steel) and do not apply epoxy to the interior of the mortis on either end - only apply epoxy to the faces of the two pieces you are joining. That way, the epoxy isn't anywhere near the smoke.

bluesmk · Post by **bluesmk** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 1:39 pm

I use the same epoxy that Kurt uses Sytems Three-T88...Always!
Dan
Gabrieli Pipes

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:23 am

Where do you guys get the T-88 epoxy, I don't recall ever seeing that. I think I might give that stuff a shot.

Thanks,

bluesmk · Post by **bluesmk** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:47 am

Here ya go. I used to mail order from them, but they put one in locally.
http://www.woodcraft.com/
Dan
Gabrieli Pipes

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:08 pm

Thanks Dan,

Unfortunately I don't have one here in town, but there is one up the road in Charlotte...about an hour drive. It has been a while since I have been up there, sounds like a good reason for a road trip.

Thanks,