Shank extensions without a lathe

[hazmat]

What are some options for putting together a shank extension when one doesn't have a wood lathe available? Is it acceptable to turn a tenon on the extension material to fit into a mortise in the stummel? I can do this on my Taig.

Would I be better served by using a delrin tenon? What I visualize this way is the delrin would be of a larger diameter than my stem tenon. I would drill an appropriate mortise in the stummel and an appropriate hole in my extension material to accept the delrin, leaving an appropriately length/diameter tenon to fit in my stummel mortise. To connect them, I imagine I would have to treat the delrin tenon for the stummel/shank connection just as I would if I were using it as a stem tenon; score it, glue it and clamp it. Once this is cobbled together and ready to roll, I suppose I would just drill my stem mortise into the delrin, leaving me with a sleeve, basically, as my stem/mortise connection. Is this acceptable?

Any thoughts? Thanks!!

Matt

[KurtHuhn]

Both are perfectly acceptable methods, though the first one is more commonly used. If doing the first one, though, just be sure your extension material is trong enough to withstand the pressure of inserting a stem tenon.

[ScoJo]

I had been thinking of using the first method also, but I heard that if your stem has a delrin tenon on it, then this delrin to delrin mortise and tenon idea was not a good one for some reason. I can't remember. Am I correct, or am I missing something here?

[hazmat]

Kurt... are there certain woods that you'd recommend staying away from? I have a box full of various woods I picked up at Woodcraft. I told the shopkeeper what I would use them for and he directed me to a box of North American hardwoods. Thanks!

Matt

edit: Also.. I would assume using the first method that you don't drill the piece until you've attached the extension material and allowed it to cure. I can't imagine matching up separately drilled holes is any sort of fun. Am I thinking correct? Thanks!

[KurtHuhn]

Anything that's dense and hard should work. Stay away from burl wood like buckeye or amboyna burl - they fracture easily. Lacewood, snakewood, zebrawood, red and white oak, and other woods wiith long straight grains are all going to be susceptible to splitting.

I would go for stuff like cocobolo, wenge, kingwood, olive, and other waxy or oily woods.

[Nick]

Darn! A Buckeye pipe would be pretty cool I think. Maybe I can use it as a stem adornment. OOHH! And i can stain it scarlet, and the bowl will be gray. Too cool!

BA BA BABUMUNAA BABUMPABABUMPABUNNA!!! GO BUCK!!

[hazmat]

Good info, guys. Thanks!

Nick... hehe.. GO BIG BLUE!!!!!!!!

[KurtHuhn]

edit: Also.. I would assume using the first method that you don't drill the piece until you've attached the extension material and allowed it to cure. I can't imagine matching up separately drilled holes is any sort of fun. Am I thinking correct? Thanks!

Without a lathe, yes. I think that would give you best results until you become comortable with the process.

[ArtGuy]

I had been thinking of using the first method also, but I heard that if your stem has a delrin tenon on it, then this delrin to delrin mortise and tenon idea was not a good one for some reason. I can't remember. Am I correct, or am I missing something here?

It was me that told you that. I made one pipe using a delrin liner and a delrin tenon and the fit was way too tight and sticky. I replaced the delrin tenon with a vulcanite one and it was smooth as silk. I understand Steven uses delrin fittings with no problems so maybe he can give some insight.

[StephenDownie]

I've never had a problem with a Delrin tenon into a Delrin sleeve. I've been making my pipes that way for a few years now. http://www.downiepipes.com/faq.html Hope that helps a bit.

[Frank]

Stephen
Thanks for the info on G2. I had never heard of it before. Pricey, but obviously useful, especially on woods like cocobolo, etc.

[StephenDownie]

Hi Frank,

You're very welcome. I know that there are other similar products like it out on the market, but it works well for me.

[TreverT]

Lacewood, snakewood, zebrawood, red and white oak, and other woods wiith long straight grains are all going to be susceptible to splitting.

Gah. A friend of mine makes tampers and did a bunch from snakewood, which looked completely awesome. After about three months in our shop, every one of them began to split. Avoid this stuff unless you can get it stabilized and preferably totally pressure-saturated with some sort of bonding agent. Like concrete.

[Frank]

LOL @ Trever. I like your style.

I have my wood stabilized with these folks: http://rrpwhite.com/stabilizing%20page.htm
Sort of a "Mom & Pop" outfit. Very nice people to deal with.