I am about to embark on making my own stems from "scratch", and I was just wondering, "Why is there a slit in the stem?", is there a valid reason for it or is it just "tradition" to have it there?. I have in mind to just finnish the stem off with a hole in the center of the button, I consider this to be a lot easier to clean. I imagine that a slit is a pretty heavy dirt collector and not all thet easy to clean. Perhaps some-one could throw some light on the subject.
Thanks in advance.
Bernard (DonBernard)
Why the slit in the stem?
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donbernard
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:27 am
- Location: The Netherlands
The slit is there to widen the smoke channel as it narrows toward the button. The idea is for the slit to be able to carry the same volume of air as the rest of the channel.
Since it has to be thinner to make a comfortable bit, it has to be widened to carry the same air volume. Otherwise, you get a restriction and restrictions cause gurgling.
And they aren't very difficult to clean.
Rad
Since it has to be thinner to make a comfortable bit, it has to be widened to carry the same air volume. Otherwise, you get a restriction and restrictions cause gurgling.
And they aren't very difficult to clean.
Rad
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donbernard
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:27 am
- Location: The Netherlands
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donbernard
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:27 am
- Location: The Netherlands
Why the slit in the stem?
OK, I have given your explanation some thought.
I did not know that the channel narrows toward the end.
My experience with pre-drilled rods is that the hole is the same width throughout the length.
I have read elsewhere on this forum about the use of tapered drills, so, is this their aplication?
Simply, is the channel narrower at the end of the stem?, in which case your explanation makes sense. otherwise, it does not.
This is not a challenge, it is merely an enquiry.
Bernard (DonBernard)
I did not know that the channel narrows toward the end.
My experience with pre-drilled rods is that the hole is the same width throughout the length.
I have read elsewhere on this forum about the use of tapered drills, so, is this their aplication?
Simply, is the channel narrower at the end of the stem?, in which case your explanation makes sense. otherwise, it does not.
This is not a challenge, it is merely an enquiry.
Bernard (DonBernard)
Hi Bernard,
When I drill a rod, I use a 5/32 inch tapered bit that tapers to 1/16 at the point, and I drill to within about 1/2 inch of the end of the rod. Change bit to 1/16, and drill the rest of the way.
The 1/16 inch at the end allows you to make the button end of your stem comfortably thin without sanding into the smoke channel.
The standard thickness at the button end of hand cut stems is around .140-.150. You can't get the button end this thin if the hole inside is 5/32 in diameter, because 5/32 is .15625, which is .00625 *larger* than the thickness you want at your button.
Rad
When I drill a rod, I use a 5/32 inch tapered bit that tapers to 1/16 at the point, and I drill to within about 1/2 inch of the end of the rod. Change bit to 1/16, and drill the rest of the way.
The 1/16 inch at the end allows you to make the button end of your stem comfortably thin without sanding into the smoke channel.
The standard thickness at the button end of hand cut stems is around .140-.150. You can't get the button end this thin if the hole inside is 5/32 in diameter, because 5/32 is .15625, which is .00625 *larger* than the thickness you want at your button.
Rad
Rad answered mostly what I wanted to answer as I was composing this essay... but I'll post anyway.
Most pipe makers in the US use 9/64 (3.5 mm) or 5/32 (4mm) to drill their airhole. If you drill that through to the bit lip, you're bit thickness before the lip will need to be at least 6mm (4mm hole + 1mm stem material + 1mm stem material). That is too thick. For comfort, I strive to hit below 4mm. The only way to do that is to use a tapered drill bit at the desired airhole size, and stop about 12mm from the end. Then finish with a 1.5mm bit. Then create your slot in the last 15mm, keeping about a 2mm thickness through the depth of your slot. As far as I know, it's the best way to keep the airhole volume consisent and have a comfortable bit. Some people say that the slit "opens and spreads" the smoke into the mouth. I don't believe that it makes that much of a difference. I have many Peterson P-lip style stems where the lip ends with just the hole and haven't really noticed a difference in smoke distribution in the mouth (though the design does direct the smoke to the palate). If you want to skip the hassle of slotting, study the P-lip design, since I think they are comfortable enough. The hole seems to taper and have a slight angle up at the end.
Most pipe makers in the US use 9/64 (3.5 mm) or 5/32 (4mm) to drill their airhole. If you drill that through to the bit lip, you're bit thickness before the lip will need to be at least 6mm (4mm hole + 1mm stem material + 1mm stem material). That is too thick. For comfort, I strive to hit below 4mm. The only way to do that is to use a tapered drill bit at the desired airhole size, and stop about 12mm from the end. Then finish with a 1.5mm bit. Then create your slot in the last 15mm, keeping about a 2mm thickness through the depth of your slot. As far as I know, it's the best way to keep the airhole volume consisent and have a comfortable bit. Some people say that the slit "opens and spreads" the smoke into the mouth. I don't believe that it makes that much of a difference. I have many Peterson P-lip style stems where the lip ends with just the hole and haven't really noticed a difference in smoke distribution in the mouth (though the design does direct the smoke to the palate). If you want to skip the hassle of slotting, study the P-lip design, since I think they are comfortable enough. The hole seems to taper and have a slight angle up at the end.
This is one of my favorite pipes. It smokes very well.
I will try this system on my next stem. I can never get the inside of the traditional slit smooth and clean, so this two hole system should eliminate a lot of work.
If anybody has a different opinion I would like to read it.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233 ... 7Small.jpg
I will try this system on my next stem. I can never get the inside of the traditional slit smooth and clean, so this two hole system should eliminate a lot of work.
If anybody has a different opinion I would like to read it.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233 ... 7Small.jpg
All the best,
Tano
Tano
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donbernard
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:27 am
- Location: The Netherlands
Why the slit in the stem?
Thank you Rad Davis and kbadkar,
I have been informed and enlightened.
Thank you especially kbadkar for the metric conversions, I am often confounded by your imperial measurements.
I shall have to persue the purchase of tapered drills, and of course, drill my own rods for the purpose.
"The road to enlightenment is a long one."
Thanks again,
Bernard (DonBernard)
I have been informed and enlightened.
Thank you especially kbadkar for the metric conversions, I am often confounded by your imperial measurements.
I shall have to persue the purchase of tapered drills, and of course, drill my own rods for the purpose.
"The road to enlightenment is a long one."
Thanks again,
Bernard (DonBernard)