Rustication & sandblast "wet look"

LatakiaLover · Post by **LatakiaLover** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:03 pm

Such as Dunhill's Shell finish when new. Equally shiny in the crevices as well as the high spots, almost as if they have been dipped or sprayed.

I can get an excellent and equally attractive (to my eye) "shine up" when refurbing them, but it is subtly different--slightly shinier on the high spots. Anyone here able to replicate the wet look?

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:28 pm

yep... plug your ears, though, if you don't want to hear the

eeeevil

word. No, it's not "nee", it's shellac. RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!!

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:22 pm

ROFL!!!

I hate to say it, but that's the magic formula for long-lasting high shines of all kinds. Hell, it could even be lacquer.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:38 pm

hazmat wrote:yep... plug your ears, though, if you don't want to hear the eeeevil word. No, it's not "nee", it's shellac. RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!!

"You shall not pass!".

LatakiaLover · Post by **LatakiaLover** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:04 pm

That's what I figured, too, but hoped maybe you guys knew of a something like a polished-bristle nylon buffing wheel that's used at slow speeds. Some tricky gadget that had escaped me. Shellac always seemed like a shortcut, so I don't mess with it much. (Contrast stains is about it, then only as a color "freezer.")

Thanks.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:08 am

Truth be told, I have no idea what Dunhill uses. Could be the blood of baby seals for all I know.

There area few soft nylon brushes out there, but it always seemed to me that anything harder than a flannel buffing wheel would make a satin or matte finish rather than a shiny one. Best bet? Take a thick flannel wheel, turn the RPM down to 850 or so, and buff with rather hard pressure. It will get into all those nooks and crannies and shine them right up.

geigerpipes · Post by **geigerpipes** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 5:18 am

just go at it with a clean toothbrush just like the time before you visit your dentist

ASB · Post by **ASB** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:16 pm

Not sure if it's right or not, but in cleaning up estate blasts I use the Halcyon II http://www.finepipes.com/Halcyon/halcyon.htm with a little Dremel 403 brush (nylon 1") that seems to work pretty well. Of course I run it on the slowest speed my Dremel will go.

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:23 pm

Buffing a rough pipe will just work buffing compound into the crevices, which looks like poo. You can do that with a wax wheel, then hit it with a heat gun, but that will just give an even sheen, not a gloss. I would guess most factories spray whatever they use. I think Todd once posted that old shellac 78 records worked really well (crushed and dissolved in alcohol) for dark rusticated finishes.

Alan L · Post by **Alan L** » Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:18 am

JHowell wrote: I think Todd once posted that old shellac 78 records worked really well (crushed and dissolved in alcohol) for dark rusticated finishes.

I can see the sales pitch now: Long-shanked rusticated billiard, Bing Crosby shape, imbued with actual essence of Bing himself!

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:22 pm

ROFL!!!