When drilling airhole I use a 9/64" dia. standard bit. The mortise hole
I use a 19/64 or a 5/16 and go in about 3/4" in shank. The tobacco
hole is 3/4" dia. and 1 7/8" deep. I use a bench drill press. All holes line up perfectly. The problem is that sometimes the pipe cleaner hits the bottom of the mortise and has trouble entering the air hole. I have even made my mortise standard drill bit taper more on the tip and
it helped a little, but not enough. Any suggestions?? Thanks, Patrick
Question regarding drilling mortise in pipe shank...
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pennsyscot
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Re: Question regarding drilling mortise in pipe shank...
The length of the tenon should be equal to the depth of the mortise.Patrick wrote: I use a 19/64 or a 5/16 and go in about 3/4" in shank. .... The problem is that sometimes the pipe cleaner hits the bottom of the mortise ...
Kim Kendall
http://www.PenguinBriar.com/
http://www.PenguinBriar.com/
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ToddJohnson
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It sounds like what you're talking about is a draft hole that is "high" in the mortise as is common on bent pipes. There are several solutions to this problem, and I would recommend a combination of them.
First, you could use a larger mortise. This will allow you to drill at the same angle while moving the point of intersection with the mortise floor back, and down closer to the center.
Second, you can use a drill bit to cut a small groove in the back of the mortise that will allow your start point for drilling to be further back (i.e. lower). Consequently, your entry point will also be lower in the mortise floor and closer to the center.
Third, you can drill a shorter mortise (and this is very likely the majority of your problem) so that the mortise floor is higher and the angle of intersection with the draft hole aligns it closer to the center of the mortise floor.
Fourth--and this will likely be a necessity even if you employ several of the techniques above--you may need to "ramp" the draft hole. What this means is that you basically cut a little ramp from the center of the mortise floor up to the draft hole to allow a pipecleaner to slide into the draft hole a bit further down toward the bowl. This can be accomplished with a rotary bur in the Dremel, a bent round chainsaw file (you'll need to heat it first) and/or a half round 1/8" wood or linoleum gouge.
That should do ya.
Todd
First, you could use a larger mortise. This will allow you to drill at the same angle while moving the point of intersection with the mortise floor back, and down closer to the center.
Second, you can use a drill bit to cut a small groove in the back of the mortise that will allow your start point for drilling to be further back (i.e. lower). Consequently, your entry point will also be lower in the mortise floor and closer to the center.
Third, you can drill a shorter mortise (and this is very likely the majority of your problem) so that the mortise floor is higher and the angle of intersection with the draft hole aligns it closer to the center of the mortise floor.
Fourth--and this will likely be a necessity even if you employ several of the techniques above--you may need to "ramp" the draft hole. What this means is that you basically cut a little ramp from the center of the mortise floor up to the draft hole to allow a pipecleaner to slide into the draft hole a bit further down toward the bowl. This can be accomplished with a rotary bur in the Dremel, a bent round chainsaw file (you'll need to heat it first) and/or a half round 1/8" wood or linoleum gouge.
That should do ya.
Todd