Alt staining.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:10 pm

Umm... no need to bold everything you type.

Most guys prefer alcohol based stain.

I recommend to newcomers here to read some of the old posts. Most such questions have already been well answered.

kbadkar · Post by **kbadkar** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:15 pm

Wax flake can't be applied to your buffing wheel. You need a block. You will have to melt the flake and use a mold to make a block.

For stains, alcohol based aniline dye/stain for leather or wood is what you need. Either get the powdered form and mix with denatured alcohol or get Fiebing's leather dye.

waterkeeper · Post by **waterkeeper** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:15 pm

Bold is the style i post in on all the forums i belong to,it helps me find my posts and those relevant to it much quicker... it shouldn't be that big of a deal.

thanks for the input on the stain, i'll have a follow up video and as i said a picture of the completed project probably by monday.

waterkeeper · Post by **waterkeeper** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:20 pm

kbadkar wrote:Wax flake can't be applied to your buffing wheel.

I don't own a buffing wheel bigger than the one that came with my dremel tool, can't i apply it while it's in liquid form just the same?

kbadkar · Post by **kbadkar** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:27 pm

No.

You need a really super thin even layer or just ends up a gloppy mess. The only way to do it that I know of is on a proper sized buffing wheel. Your dremel will not do an entire pipe correctly... though it might get you by in a tight spot that a real buffing wheel may not be able to reach.

I also find the bold type annoying

waterkeeper · Post by **waterkeeper** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:29 pm

sending you a private message so as not to piss off frank...

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:30 pm

waterkeeper wrote:
kbadkar wrote:Wax flake can't be applied to your buffing wheel.
I don't own a buffing wheel bigger than the one that came with my dremel tool, can't i apply it while it's in liquid form just the same?

No.

I tried that a long time ago when I first got a block of carnauba wax and before I began making pipes.

Carnauba is about the consistency of hard plastic and has to be pushed against a spinning buffing wheel to "charge" the wheel, and then you buff the pipe. If you dip your wheel in liquid carnauba, the wax will immediately dry and become hard plastic again and probably scratch your pipe.

You also need a much bigger buffing wheel. 6" at a minimum. 8-10" is better.

Rad

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:20 pm

waterkeeper wrote:sending you a private message so as not to piss off frank...

You're not pissing me off at all. I tried to make it as friendly a suggestion as possible. I assure you, I wasn't going to comment on it again.

waterkeeper · Post by **waterkeeper** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:23 pm

apologies. i'm used to another forum that is local here, not about pipes but have lots of callous members. would anyone suggest lemon seed oil? or is that a good way to make myself sick?

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:54 pm

waterkeeper wrote:apologies. i'm used to another forum that is local here, not about pipes but have lots of callous members. would anyone suggest lemon seed oil? or is that a good way to make myself sick?

I would suggest using traditional alcohol stains, or, for a natural finish, a spit coat of shellac, and then carnauba.

No sense trying to reinvent the wheel on your first pipe.

Rad

waterkeeper · Post by **waterkeeper** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:57 pm

i used a little bit of olive oil (there were extra virgins in the bottle)

i'm thinking about getting another block but i'm gonna wait a little while. thanks for all the input.